j ai un voyant qui s est allumé d un coup au demarrage et qui ne s efface plus .

diagnostic lotus .... faisceau abs

mais il ne savent pas si c est le capteur ( sensor speed ) ou le fils coupé ou autre ....donc veulent la prendre pour aller plus loin . bref

J ai regardé en dessous le fils qui va au capteur n est pas cassé .

savez vous ce que je peux faire ou avez vous eu ce cas sur des exige avant de la donner ?

410 exige 17 000 km

merci

I am changing the wishbone bushes on my V6 as I took the wishbones off to paint/refurb them. Im using the eliseparts wishbone bush tool: https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/steering-br-suspension-1/wishbones-mounts/wishbone-bush-removal-fitting-tool/

It works great for getting them out, but when fitting the new ones they completely split around the edges and then don't go in fully - when I remove the tool, they pop back out by 2-3mm. I'm using the large collar on the tool which sits over the full diameter of the bush, not the smaller one that's for removing them.

I've tried heating the wishbone with a gas torch, putting the bushes in the freezer for 48hrs, and used tonnes of P-80 rubber lube every time. Tried by hand with a spanner, tried with an impact.. same results.

What am I missing?!

Thanks in advance for any tips.

Nick

waiting to push the button on some bc forged wheels but struggling to decide on design and whether to do recesses on both axles or leave the rear and go as concave as possible.

anyone with non oem wheels can you post some pics to inspire me; doesn’t matter if it’s your car or not. 

I managed to lift a side of the car, however I noted that both the front and rear tyres were lifted together. This is a problem , because I cannot lift both sides together (my plan was to use two Jacks to lift rear tyres and keep front tyres on the ground).

I am sure there should be an easy way, without removing the rear pannel on the bottom to get access to the other jacking points. 

Could you please help? Unfortunately I do not have another set of tyres to use as temporary replacement for the swap

I also have a couple of standing jacks.. but not sure how to use them.

Thanks!

Does anyone know the spring rates for the Lotus factory-option Ohlins and 2-way Nitrons for the Exige V6 Cup? 

Thx! 

I know there are a few brake pad threads in here already and ive read all of them thus far but many of them are a few years old so im just putting it out there to ask anyone thats been running any particular pad for track work to share their experiences.....so it would be good to know what people have tried and tested in last few years and stuck with for good reliable success?

Not after a noisy hardcore pad that chews discs quick, more so something better than ferodo 2500 with better bite and stopping power, low dust and decent disc wear? 

I/ve lowered the rear by 4 turns on Nitron, see below:

Now I have 132mm for frront and 138 mm for rear, the user guide said 130/136 how is it possible? mine seems ready to cut the grass

Coincidentally (and I’m not sure this is related) I notice 1-2mm of rotational play in the steering wheel at its periphery - completely free play before it loads up with the steering components/wheels.

Anyone have a clue if related? 🤔

(Exige Cup 430)

I’m looking into getting the Nitron dampers serviced, and having chatted to Jack Webb Motorsport in Lincolnshire, they have recommended using a softer spring rate to reduce the harshness on the standard set up, followed by a full geometry setup.

The suspension is very firm, which is particularly noticeable on the state of my local roads. I haven’t experimented yet with the damper settings but was interested to see if anyone has any experience of using a softer spring on the Nitrons.

cheers

Rick

I’ll also need pads, but road use only.

Aside from lotus, are there any 3rd party suppliers for 410 / 390 Rotors (the bolt on disc to the central hub)

Just wondering if they are any suspensions solutions to give a better ride. Looking at what’s available they all see to be for making that up even more track focused.

Are there any garages that have the skill to create a bespoke setup?

Thanks

Has anyone replaced their pads with another brand or is it best to use AP Racing ?

Ive only had the car 3 month but have done some hard B road driving over the last few days and the brake pedal feels like its getting closer to the floor.....a sign of new pads needed soon?

😃🫣

Common issue I keep encountering with my Exige is the brake pads sticking to the dics after a wash. Recently, I had to really rev the car to move it, which in a tight garage isnt ideal. Also the left released before the right, meaning the right dragged along the garage floor.

Just this week, I spent a few hours washing and detailing the car. Normally I would put the car away without paying any attenton to the dics or pads. However this time, I used a hairdryer and a leaf blower to dry the pads out before putting the car away. 4 days later, I have just checked the state of the dics, and they have rusted again, and I am sure will stick again when I try to drive the car next (lockdown pending!)

Whilst I fully appreciate this is normal. I want to try and find a way of preventing this. Does anyone have any advice or tips? 

One thing I have looked at is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163954850486 a rust stopper. Has anyone tried this method and was it a) just after washing whilst the disc is clean b) applying when the brakes have already rusted and allow them to realise easier?

Any advice or guidance would be appreciated

Tom

ABS :

Braking deceleration potential is limited exclusively by the tire: no limitation of the vehicle deceleration by the ABS (unlike the series ABS limited by program-based controls). Typical racing deceleration values of 2 g and more when using slicks and a correspondingly high downforce are achievable.

Trail braking: braking deeply into bends is particularly supported by the modern control system. The vehicle remains steerable and the typical understeer of the standard brake is eliminated.

Exact steering also under ABS: By using the ESP sensors (steering angle, lateral acceleration and yaw rate) in the modeling of the ABS controller, the optimal ratio between the maximum possible braking and lateral force is always maintained.

No hard pedal (“ice mode”) or underbrake e.g. after jumps: The modern adaptive ABS control approach even allows braking over jumps (e.g. Pflanzgarten). This is possible because the ABS controller continuously models the maximum possible longitudinal force on the wheel and adjusts it immediately. It is not dependent on simple program-controlled situation recognition.

ESP stability :

Intervention only in the event of oversteer and only through specific wheel-selective brake pressure build-up. Undesired overcompensating braking / interventions in case of understeering are history.

No engine torque reduction: No drop in engine torque with a greatly delayed re-establishment of momentum. Powerslide out of curves becomes possible. The driver controls the engine torque by solely using the accelerator pedal.

The new freedom of the Race-Mode does not inhibit, but rather supports the driver gently but effectively in preventing the car from going into a “spin”. In contrast to the standard series, significantly higher drift angles are possible and these are also corrected more gently (note: the driver also plays a role here). Driving in ESP-OFF mode is therefore no longer necessary to achieve top lap times; however it is still possible as the ESP can be switched off completely.

ESP differential :

We have deliberately not built this into the software. A mechanical lock is recommended. The rear axle brake is significantly relieved, so there is no longer any risk of overheating on the racetrack.

TC :

This is also deliberately not built into the software. No collapse in engine torque with delayed rebuilding of propulsion. The vehicle is less restricted and responds better to acceleration. The driver always has full access to the drive torque.

on track?

I have no real experience so any guidance very welcome.

Front: https://www.elise-shop.com/elise-shop-com-front-aluminium-bell-brake-discs/

Rear: https://www.elise-shop.com/elise-shop-com-rear-aluminium-bell-brake-discs/

Inc shipping, VAT and import these should come in at around £1100-1200 GBP for a full set - that's around half the price of most of the other options out there... they sound like a good trackday option based on the descriptions.

Any thoughts/opinions/experience on these?

Thanks, Nick.

As per title. Looking for a more aggressive road setup now.

Alternatively, any specific recommendations if I travel a bit? Everybody knows Spires, Suspension Secrets, Center Gravity, String Theory, I suspect that some may some may charge more for the hype around them but I'm willing to be proven wrong.

Cheers!

My reason for asking is that I'm looking to get some tyres for winter track and road work - if I'm a bit creative with the sizing, it looks like the new (ish) Bridgestone Potenza Sport are available front (225/45/17 rather than 215/45/17 OEM) and rear. 

Thanks!

I used to click from Tour, to sport, then hold it on race mode for 3 seconds to go into race mode. I then had to push it again into race mode to turn off TC. 
 

Now I click from tour, into sport, then hold it on race mode for 3 seconds to go into race mode but then TC goes off aswell. Pushing it again into race mode does nothing else 

Anyone else had this problem, and is there a work around? 
 

cheers