lostcause

both rear hub nuts are the same, i.e. they arent "handed", there should be a split cone spacer behind the nut, check that this is in place, ensure everything is grit free, very lightly oil the threads and the faces of the cone spacer and the face of the nut (wd40 or similar is ideal for this) then tighten the hub nut to 200 ft/lb. tighten further to enable the split pin to pass through the castellations on the nut DO NOT LOOSEN to achieve this.You will need a big torque wrench and socket to achieve this torque, probably with a helper pressing the brake pedal for all thier worth to prevent the shaft turning, the hand brake alone probably wont hold. I had a bar that fits onto the wheel studs and rests against the ground for doing this, and borrow a 1" drive , 6 ft long! torque wrench from a friend. You say you have got split pins through the castellated nut, if it hasn't sheared (nut undoing) then I would suggest the problem lies else where... Bearing failing? or incorrectly fitted? Cone spacer missing? threads on the hub nut or drive shaft worn allowing the nut to pop off? hope this helps Mark

if you want to change the clutch, the engine has to come out, the gearbox wont come out with the engine in place (great design!) Probably a wise move to repair any damaged threads. I was lucky, no stripped threads and with the exception of the downpipe studs on the manifold, all of the studs came out without too much hastle as well!

finally got round to putting the engine back in, it starts and runs a treat, just a bit of carb tinkering to set it up, also treated the old girl to a lick of matt black...... demonic springs to mind! The window surrrounds and other bright trims are getting the vinyl wrap treatment in black too. Micha would be impressed with the sunroof repair!

I removed any "offending " studs from manifold faces, wiped them with acetone or thinners to make sure the surface was oil free, then used duct tape thats the mesh reinforced stuff that sticks to anything, supply the carcher with a hot water supply and obviously do not direct the jet at oil seals or the tape. Take off the timing belt and tensioner assemby before you douse it. I left the tape in place for painting as well. theres a pic on my post "what have I done", very blingy!!

I did mine with Gunk and a pressure washer, scrape off any thick lumps of oil/grime, a good scrub with a stiff brush and gunk, then blast it with hot water at whatever pressure a karcher works at! It did mine a treat. As an aside, i pulled my engine out with out the gearbox, it "fell" back in, just jack the gearbox as high as it will go, suspend the engine on the inlet manifold runners for 2nd and 3rd cylinder, I couldnt believe how easy/fast it went. I had to loosen the power rack to gain clearance. If you want to give it a lick of paint, I'm advised that smooth hamerite in silver is a good finish, Plastikote like I used is not good! hope this helps Mark

you will need the sump from an elite/eclat S2.2 to go into an S2.2 chassis as its different from the 2.0 and the excel in that the sump has "wings" on it for the engine mounts HTH Mark

two of my studs sheared when I took my down pipe off to remove the engine, seems some kind previous owner used studs made of some kind of very hard material that wouldnt weld, nor could i drill it. It took a recommended engine machine shop over an hour to drill out and re tap it for me. To add insult to injury, all of the replacement head to manifold studs, supplied by a Lotus specialist (nameless) were too long and had to be cut down, also the new nuts they supplied were a tad on the large side and fouled the manifold. It took ages to fit, thank god the endine was out of the car!

check the flexible hoses, mine had collapsed internaly (all 3!) and would only allow a dribble of fluid through, easy to check as well, just disconect them, also if he has changed the rear shoes/cylinders, the chances are that the adjusters will need adjusting, mine had to be wound out loads to give a decent pedal. hope this helps mark

speedlines are 4x100, same as used by toyota, bmw, vw etc,

not had a lot of joy with either option listed above, shame we cant have ads on here

done, good luck

The later rotary engines are reliable, very powerful and super compact, the accessories take up more room than the lump itself! The revvy nature of the rotary and its high rpm limit will suit the low ratio axle of the elite far better than a lazy v8, remember the original engine does 7000rpm, most v8s are out of puff by 5-5500. I'd give the rotary a big thumbs up.

Cam towers have been sealed, so I thought I'd give it a lick of paint, spotty oik in the DIY shed assured me that this Plastikote stuff was the same as smooth hammerite, the smooth silver being a dead ringer for alluminium....... Its like chrome!!! The black crackle finish cam covers are being changed for bright red ones.... every pub bar prop and internet forum "expert" knows that red cam covers are worth at least an extra 20 BHP (Bullshit, Hyperbole Phenomenon), going to get red HT leads too, they are worth another 5+BHP and some of those lead pellets for the fuel tank, maybe one of those electric fan supercharger things off EBAY as well, why any one would spend thousands having an engine built by "experts" when "everyone" knows that a can of paint and a few quid on EBAY will out do the proffessionals every time yes I'm a little inebriated!!

It didnt take long to undo them, just awkward, first time we tackled it and it took just over an hour, the rack mounts had to be slackened to allow the sump to clear the rack, most of the bolts could be done with a 3/8 drive "adaptorpede" of wobbly extensions....around 3' long, me under the car straining, grunting and swearing with Matt locating the socket on the offending bolt heads.... I guess time will tell when it comes to re installing it..

I managed to get the engine out on its own (with help), some of the bellhousing bolts are pigs, all the down pipe studs broke. Reason i separated them was because I couldn't remove the gearstick! (getrag box 2.2), why are they supposed to be removed as a unit?