cazna52

I am glad my experience was able to help you out. I may not always be able to suggest the best way to do things but I have a particular knack at finding the worst way, and that is at least of some use if others can avoid the same mistakes

Beautiful camera but a bit pricey. You can get a Zorki 1 or a Fed 1 for about $50. They are russian copies of the Leica 2 and are still a pleasure to use although I am sure they are not as nice as a real Leica.

Thats very scary. I am glad you caught it in time and they were able to fix you up. Hope you are recovering well.

You can refill them with a butane/propane mix. Stevem did mine for me in Australia and it runs great.

Justin Blake

I will post some photos tonight. I didn't take too many but I will post the ones that were emailed by the other guys too. I would have done it sooner but when I got home from that run my electricity had failed due to a faulty switch board and I wasn't able to get it fixed till yesterday.

I am guessing you mean the seal for the cover not the seal for the crank shaft. The seal for the crank shaft definitely has to be the real thing. It isn't flat and it does a lot of work so there is no way you could do it with a liquid gasket. With the gasket for the cover I forgot to order one when I did the job on my car and I used a hand cut paper gasket and gasket goo. I think liquid alone would be a bit of a risk but if you get proper gasket paper that did the trick in my case. One thing to note if you are replacing the crank seal. When I did mine I didn't pay enough attention to the manual and I put it in flush with the steel of the cover but after reassembling I noticed that it should have been left sitting a bit proud towards the gearbox side. I can't remember the measurement and I am not near a manual at the moment but I would recommend checking before you do the job.

Ahh, cool. I was looking totally in the wrong place. I thought the temperature sender was one of the three sensors on the coolant downpipe where the one that controls the fans is. Should be easy to fix now. Thanks heaps for that.

After having done quite a bit of work in my engine bay my car now shows max on the temperature gauge all the time. I have checked the wires on the coolant pipe where the sensors are located and all the plugs are connected. I did run the car for about 1 or 2 minutes without coolant at one point when I was testing for spark and was so pleased that the car started it took me a few moments to remember I hadn't put coolant back in yet. I can't imagine running it briefly like that could have done too much damage. It has coolant now but the temperature gauge just goes to max and stays there. Does anyone have any ideas on how to test the sensor or what wires I should be checking to get the gauge working again?

Car is running now, and not too rough. I do have one worrying problem still though. It looks like my temperature gauge isn't working anymore, it is just showing maximum temperature all the time. I will start another thread to ask for advice on that one just so that it easier to search for in future.

Mine popped out last night but I think I have it back in ok. I was just trying to loosen the screw enough to rotate it but didn't realize it is spring loaded. Hopefully it is back in well enough, the rotor button seems to be locked in and not spinning.

Sydney for me also. Black 1989 Esprit Turbo.

For reference I was looking for information about the distributor pickup and by chance on one of the pages I was looking at they mentioned the brake calipers. He said that it was from a 1985 Toyota Celica but that they were used on the opposite side. http://lotusracer.home.mchsi.com/lotustipspage2.htm

Ahh, ok. So you run it with the plenum off but the rest of the fuel system on. Thanks for that. Hopefully I will get time to give it a try tonight if I can get my distributor working by then.