andy b

S3 HC Well I have got the oil lines out one line had been cut in the past and they fitted a bit of copper pipe to join them, I could not live with the bodge so new lines are here. and it looks As if the oil cooler has a small weep so I have to replace that. to get the g/shift out I had to put a jubilee clip around the gear knob and use grips to get it off it must have been glued in place at some time.

Thank you mike at last I know I am not waisting my time removing the trim on the transmission panel.

I am replacing the oil lines from engine to oil cooler are they fixed any where in the middle box of the chassis. if so how do you assess the fixing. trim searching but 8 k results dont have enough life left to go through that lot

This is not a fun job both sides have fought me all the way. only wanted to tidy them up. turned into a 3 day job. I have had to cut both lower studs to get them out of the alloy hub safely. all the shocks work well but scabby. I had to make a new spring compressor to get the shocks back in without the spring flying off.

Got the shaft out this morning had to pull it all the way it was bent. on my car the shaft came out forward just enough room. so I have not disturbed the grommet on the body. put the shaft in the lathe and gave it a clout it now fits in the chassis fine as a test. ordering 2 new shafts incase the other side has similar issues.

I thought a simple job Just remove a few nuts and blast and paint my top wishbones how wrong. I was. you cannot remove the inside one without getting the long pin out of the chassis. My word it is tight in there I used some thick wall tube as a spacer got a new full nut and pulled the shaft through the chassis. adding more tube as I went and plenty of release oil. I thought this may help someone else wanting to do this job. Still have to resolve how to get the shaft back through to reassemble it all. will post when I get them painted

By the time I found one the job is finished I hate waiting for parts to arrive. Waiting for seals now to refit the pistons in them there rear brakes. Thank you for the heads up though. Andy

common sense fit the new bushes and ream to get them in line. There is a Bellville spring under the mechanical piston that makes the H/brake work. it took me a while to think of a way to preload the piston to get the operating arm in to assemble it. Solution as per picture. I used my milling machine to load the spring sliding the operating arm in as I went.

I asked a day or two ago on face book site about servicing the Bendix inboard rear callipers on my S3 well I decided to remove them and work on the bench. First problem was using a pedal box with master cylinder attached i could not push the piston out it turned out the flexable hose had collapsed and blocked changed that and test again piston was fine. so a clean then found the hand brake operating rod had a bush missing I have no idea how on earth this has gone missing. So on the lathe and made a new bush just got to reassemble today.

well I managed to find some pliers and I have some sockets for the tool roll king dick posting pictures for interest also added a late Excel kit which I think I am looking for for the S3 as before I need the tool box insert and some tools what I do have is 2 screw drivers one spanner 13mm -10mm I need the rest .turbo tool roll. --m100 kit--excel kit which I believe I need for my late S3 just for interest

Yes pictures will not load on my lap top when I did a search or they are removed when opening old chats hence my starting a fresh post

I have tool box with just 2 screw drivers one spanner 13mm - 10mm and pliers missing the moulded tray that holds the tools in but I have the box and strap my lower fixing was bent sorted that now. So the challenge is finding what I am missing lol should be fun

lats S3 non turbo I have searched but I have not been able to open any pictures has anyone got a complete tool kit and can send me a picture of the contents of the tool kit also I dont know how the strap that retains it is hooked int a bracket that I dont seem to have in my car and I cannot see anywhere where it would have been fitted

well it moves in a few mm against the spring and then it comes back out. to a solid stop. the input shaft has a little spacer on it something stronger than nylon.

Having read a lot about the input shaft issues IE Circlip and the like. I have a spare g/box on the bench never been inside one before is there a quick and unobtrusive way to check the circlip . many thanks Andy