black eclat
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Posts posted by black eclat
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Well, I had to cancel the alignment check as I was invited to present the Eclat for a photo shoot to appear on a You Tube channel called Johns Garage.
I spent a considerable amount of time polishing and buffing the car in preparation for that.
It was a 200km round trip and the car was fabulous and it didn't rain.
Part of the photo shoot was a spirited drive for some action shots and it was very well behaved.
However, I still intend to get the alignment check done, soon.
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Diff bearings are ok, recently changed.
Wheel bearings are ok.
Small, almost imperceptible play in diff and U/J's. All U/J's greased and not rusty
Radius arm bushes are old but not soft or perished.
Radius arms look straight as much as I can tell with them on the car. Put a spirit level along its length and shows to be straight.
Chassis looks square and flat.
I have booked it in for 4 wheel alignment check this coming week so I will see what that tells me.
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Don't have the means to measure camber but from an alignment check late 2021, LH Rear was -00.40 degrees and RH was -01.52 degrees.
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I hadn't considered that.
They don't appear rusted.
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A bit of background,
I have the car 15 years and its always handled well once driven within its limits.
October 2022, I had a crackling outer diff bearing so the diff was removed and both outer bearings replaced.
All other rear suspension parts checked and spacers on the diff noted. All bushings were replaced in 2021 and I have only covered 5k miles since then.
The radius arm washers, then, were all on the outside of the radius arms. (radius arm tight to rubber mounting).
A reinforcing channel is fitted across the diff mounts.
I have driven it since October and didn't notice anything amiss with handling but it was just a test to check that the crackling had disappeared when turning sharply.
Since yesterday, I put the car on the lift, slackened all suspension components, rolled it backwards and forwards on the floor several times with 80Kgs ballast in the boot.
I torqued the suspension again, whilst on the floor.
When I apply the tracking gauge again, it reads the same.
I don't doubt the tracking gauge as it reads correctly on the front toe and against my calibration gauge.
I cant see anything wrong, out of place and I am thinking I might need to "alter " my diff reinforcing channel.
Any feedback welcome.
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Bit of a puzzle here.
I was out driving my 521 Eclat earlier and the rear felt strange going through corners, almost as if it was steering itself, and not in a good way!
When I got back to the garage, I checked front toe and it was toe in 1degree. all good there.
Checked the rear and it was 3 degrees Toe Out, 1 degree on nearside and 2 degrees on offside.
No inner washers on the rear radius arm mounts so I have no adjustment left.
Nothing seems loose or bent on the rear suspension
No idea what to do next!
Anyone experienced this before?
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Flipping the motor is fine. You shouldn't have to adjust the lengths of crank arm or connecting rod, you will just be positioning the crank arm at a different position on the gearbox shaft.
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Fit 2 fans, with a manual override for the second fan.
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Well, my car is on the ramp at the moment so I was able to check out some details. My Getrag is a 262. The number "262.0.510.20" is stamped on the side next the bell housing a bit below the reverse switch.
It looks like the smaller of the 2 in your photo. This was a tight fit in my Eclat so I cant imagine that the larger box will fit in yours.
I think I used an Eclat Excel bell housing. (An early Excel).
I had to move the engine forward about 25mm too, to get the anti vibration weight to fit, even after I cut its corners to fit into the chassis
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I have been asked a few times over the past years for details of this particular conversion. Back then, my pictures were hosted on TinyPic and now long gone.
But seeing as all my inlet valves are bent, I have had time lately to capture all the details of this conversion so its attached here for posterity. (This time I have a back up so if any one wants a copy via email, just send me your address and I will happily send on a copy)
Hope it helps some one.
Michael.
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I think the only way is to remove back casing and count the teeth on the pinion and crown wheel.
There are certainly no markings on my differential.
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If its any help, I converted my automatic 524 to a manual Getrag using the original bell housing, a manual 79 Eclat 521 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing. I had to make a modified pivot bolt for the release arm and that was it. I used the Eclat manual pedal box and standard clutch cable.
I did replace the nylon wheel with a stainless steel wheel to prevent cable breakage.
It is a heavy clutch but so far, no issues. (touch wood)
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And when the timing is checked, you should also check that the carbs are balanced.
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Have you a cone type synchrometer and 4 way vacuum manifold with gauges? Change nothing until you can measure results.
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To remove the diff crown wheel, you need to manufacture a tool to spread the casing. Its an easy enough task to a machine shop but using it is very risky. Spread the casing a little too much and the casing is rubbish.
Something else for the pro and con list when considering a reconditioned diff.
Also, viewing your video, I would be surprised if the pinion and crown wheel were in good condition. Drain your oil and examine it for metal. That will be a good indicator as to the condition of your diff. Metal in the oil = but reconditioned diff.
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I remember an issue with overheating on my car a long time ago where the pump impeller had moved on its shaft. The gap between the block and impeller is critical, too large a gap reduces flow. The impeller is only pressed onto the shaft.
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Hi Andy,
Welcome to Lotus ownership.
I completed a restoration on my car several years ago so can help with any "how to" that you might have.
Michael.
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330bhp. That is a nice upgrade alright.
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Also check for excessive endfloat on the diff output shafts.
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You may already know this but just in case 😁
The wheel bearings are an SKF unit. As a single bearing the SKF part number is: BA2B 417308.
SKF also made a wheel bearing kit, the part number is VKBA 737 and is listed as British Leyland Maxi. In that kit there are 2 seals and a bearing. The bearing number is stamped as 417308. The large seal is stamped S.2320. The small seal is stamped 57.25 and 7.93
These bearings are no longer manufactured and you will only find NOS.
I was lucky a few years back and managed to hoover up 4 NOS bearings. I went through an industrial bearing source rather than an automotive bearing source.
A quick google suggests that a company called Spare Parts has limited stock. https://www.sp-spareparts.com/en/p/ba2b417308-rhp
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As all above.
Totally necessary.
Its not a non return valve. Just a solenoid, energised when ignition is turned on.
Single power wire, earth is achieved through contact with chassis.
I know this because mine fell off.
Its there to stop fuel flow when ignition is turned off,
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Rear brakes are a nightmare.
Sorry but you need to know. ☹️
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What is the issue with item 1?
Is it that the fork on the end is worn?
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I upgraded my brakes to Wilwood 4 pot calipers and vented grooved discs.
Full kit was supplied by PNM Engineering. Very, very good and it will cost you.
Can’t adjust the clutch cable enough….
in Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox
Posted
It might be that the clutch fork is not sitting on its pivot correctly and so you are just pulling the fork rather than engaging the release bearing.
Drop the cable off the fork again and see that there is limited movement on the fork.
If it wobbles all over the shop, then its detached from its pivot.
Not sure if it can be reseated without splitting the box from the engine.