Lou R

Thanks for the responses. Esprit Freek, I've tried to read the printed values on the base but it's very difficult to read given its age. Using a strong magnifying glass I come up 6-7CK Ohms (maybe it's 6-70,000 ohms ?). It's blurred enough that it could be anything. Steve, not sure what 6408F refers too. Is that what's printed on your 79 thermistor ? FYI, my car is 101S - one away from yours. I did a quick search of "potentiometer 6408F" but didn't come up with anything. Can you please clarify your reference to 6408F. Thanks so much for the help.

I would describe a Thermistor as an on/off switch that also controls the A/C temperature (depending upon how far it is advanced). Part number is A0796013F. I've attached a couple photos of the guts behind the dash switch. Thanks. A:C Thermister 1.pdf A:C Thermister 2.pdf

Hi All, I've been restoring my Federal S2 Esprit for a few years now and have seemingly exhausted all means of finding a replacement A/C Thermistor. I've checked with all UK and USA based suppliers (new and used) and have come up empty ! The original Thermistor that came with my car has a broken shaft - not much I can do with it other than replace it (I have no idea if the electronics are any good). Has anyone come across this problem before ? Can someone recommend where I might locate one (new or used) or perhaps have one to sell to me ? Or maybe someone has a proven workaround ???? Many thanks, Lou R

I refinished my cover a number of years ago using SEM Hot Rod black paint - it has (IMO) the best mix of satin and gloss to match the original. I was never able to get a textured finish but I'm happy with the outcome. Just strip off the old paint down to the fiberglass, repair any gouges or deep scratches and then re-finish with a high build primer. Once dry, lightly sand and then topcoat with the SEM Hot Rod black or whatever other paint you decide to muse. Lou R

I was hoping someone might be able to help me to understand the V-Belts on my 79 Federal S2. My car is an A/C car so the crank pulley is set up for 3 belts. The alternator has a 2 belt pulley and a single belt pulley for the water pump. My car has been off the road for a number of years and was not running when I got it. Needless to say the V-Belts were not present on the car which has led to my dilemma in trying to replace them. SJ's site has a number of V-Belts available but they seem to be a bit confusing when trying to order the correct belts for my car. Can anyone shed any light on this ? It's certainly possible the existing pulleys may also be incorrect. I was thinking of separate belts for the water pump, alternator and A/C compressor (as seems to be illustrated in the Parts Manual) but SJ specifically states this is an unusual set-up (and the 2 belt pulley on he alternator only adds con fusion). Can anyone clarify this for me ? Many thanks, Lou R

That's gotta be it ! Thanks. It's even available new (a remanufactured part) from SJ.

HI All, Was wondering if someone might help me figure out where to connect the end of a 3/8" steel pipe that runs through the chassis on my Federal S2. This pipe exits the chassis just to the left (facing forward) of the two 5/8" alloy pipes for the heater and then veers to the right (again, facing forward). I know the engine end of this pipe connects to the leading forward edge of the Intake Manifold but my notes don't indicate where the other end terminates. It appears long enough to go through the chassis tunnel and exit at the front of the chassis. I'm stumped - can anyone set me straight ? Didn't see anything on SJ's site that might help me to figure this out. Also, doesn't seem to be offered by SJ. Thanks, Lou R

Mark, The size and pitch for my Federal S2 spare tire hold down is M12 x 1.75. Lou R

Hi Pete, Thanks very much - I've already cut new boards and put them away so I'll have to dig them out of the loft and see if they have the cutout (it's been so long I don't remember). One question - does your battery box have any holes cut into it (other than the holes on the bottom for the battery clamp) ? If not, looks like I'll have to repair those already cut into mine. Lou R

Hi All, Was wondering if someone could give me some guidance on the S2 battery box. Specifically, can anyone advise how Lotus originally ran the cables into the box. My battery box has two holes cut into it presumably for running the positive and negative cables. One of the holes is a nicely cut circular hole while the other looks like it was cut with a chain saw and an axe (see attache photo). I suspect the hole on the left was put there by the PO but I'd like to be certain so I can eliminate it if it isn't correct. Did Lotus use separate holes for each cable or were they run into a single hole ? Just trying to keep it as original as possible. Thanks, Lou R

Thanks guys, Seems odd that Lotus would use different switches in the same car - not the best quality control. Oddly, when I look at the owners handbook where it details the dash layout you can faintly see where the light and hazard switches have the international light and hazard symbols engraved on the throws. In my mind that tells me they can not be ribbed (?). Regardless, from my perspective it looks best when they are all ribbed. Not much need for the engraved symbols since the switch function is engraved on the housing. Just to be consistent I'm probably going to use all ribbed throws. Fortunately, I've got a few spare switches (with ribbed throws) which I can use for parts. Thanks again. Lou R

Hi All, I'm restoring a 79 Federal S2 and have a question on the dash switches. Specifically, I was hoping someone who has an original dash layout could advise on the headlight and hazard light switches. All of the other dash switches have ribbed finger throws but the headlight and hazard switches (on my car) have smooth finger throws with international emblems (for lights and hazard "triangle") engraved into the throw. I'm trying to determine if these switches, in their original format, had unmarked (no engravings), ribbed throws or if what I currently have is correct. Seems odd that these two switches would be different from the others especially given that these switches (as well as all the others) have printed overlays (on the switch housing) identifying the function of each switch. Can anyone who is certain on which is correct please advise. Many thanks, Lou R

Hi Antonio, Sorry ! the 4 bolts that secure the pedal box to the chassis (through the body) are all M8 x 1.25 x 20 mm (each with a washer and lock washer). Good luck getting that one hard one back in - I recall it was a major pain to get at it. Lou R

Antonio, The studs should be welded to the pedal box and are fitted with M8 x 1.25 Nylocs (don't forget the spacers and washers). Lou R

Hi Antonio, The 2 bolts you identified as floating are both M8 x 1.25 x 30 mm. Sorry, but I don't understand your reference to the "bolts/nuts on top". If you can further clarify I can help out as my pedal box is already restored and off my car awaiting its time to go back in. Lou R

Tocus, See attached photo - chassis number should be stamped in the highlighted area. Lou R.

Tocus, The chassis number should be stamped on the rear horizontal crossmember. Specifically, it should be stamped on the rear vertical lip (on the horizontal crossmember) that faces aft. Not sure if it can be seen with the body in place. Lou R

Hi Wolfgang, As you stated the Flowlock is simply in place to stop the flow of fuel when the ignition is cut off. The Inertia Switch (wired to the Flowlock valve) is in place to stop the fuel flow in the event of an accident. Not sure if they were used on the S1 but the S2's did have them. A check in the Parts Manual should clarify if the Inertia Switch was used on the S1's. Lou R

Hi Wolfgang, The Federal S2's had a white cloth braided wire that was the resistive wire for the coil. It is spliced to a white wire which runs to the ignition switch and a white/lilac wire which runs to the Inertia Switch (the safety fuel shutoff). The shielded grey wire runs to the tach. The green wire is likely the ARO. Lou R

Hi All, Was wondering if anyone can steer me toward a source to obtain the two rear support brackets for the air conditioning compressor (see attached diagram, items 2 and 7). They were missing on my 1979 Federal S2 (I've got the front bracket) and I've been unable to locate a set. I've tried Lotusbits but they are not willing to part out any of the existing 907's they have. I've not had any luck with the USA vendors so I was hoping someone might have a suggestion for a European vendor. can anyone help out ? Many thanks, Lou R

Thanks Giorgio !

Hi All, I'm going through the wiring harness on my Federal S2 and intend to replace all of the older Lucas relays with new Hella or Bosch equivalents. The cases of the Lucas relays don't seem to include any info pertaining to the amp rating so I'm a little confused on what they are rated for. I'm assuming they are 30 amps each (except for the fused fan motor relay) for the headlight motors, high beam changeover, rear screen defroster, horn and fan fail light (I think that's all of them if memory serves). Can anyone please confirm if my 30 amp assumption is correct or educate me otherwise so I can purchase the correct/original size relays. 30 amps is more than enough based upon existing wire gauges and amp draw but I'd like to stay with Lotus' original spec. I'll be upgrading for the window motors and fan motors but I know what's needed for those. Many thanks, Lou R

Hi Giorgio, Mine is off the car so I can provide you with accurate dimensions from my 79 Federal S2. See attached drawing. Sorry for the switching between inches and metric - I used metric where I thought it was more precise. My sheet metal gauge indicates this is probably 16 gauge steel. Hope this helps. Lou R

Jon, Thanks. Valeo purchased the European Motorola alternator manufacturing facility many years ago (Prestolite bought the USA operations in 1988). I know that Valeo manufactures an alternator that is (supposedly) a direct bolt in for the G cars but I'm trying to stay as original as possible so I'm still trying (without much luck) to identify the original 70 amp Motorola. I've seen where others believe the Jag XJS/XJ6 used the same Motorola but I can't seem to confirm that. The search continues. Lou R.

Hi Giorgio, I also have the harness for my Federal S2 on the bench for rebuilding. My Inertia switch does not have a connector but instead has 3 wires terminating at the Inertia switch. My Inertia switch has only 2 terminals so one of the connectors has 2 wires crimped to it and the other terminal has just 1 wire crimped to it. In each case, all 3 wires are White with a Lilac stripe (like yours). You can probably confirm this against the wiring schematic for your car to see what wire colors lead to the Inertia switch. Also, you can probably get an idea by where the connector is located on the harness. If it is close to other wiring in the engine bay and the wire colors match up to the wiring schematic then you can be certain that the connector in your photo is for the Inertia switch. Lastly, the best to be absolutely certain is to perform a continuity check using your test meter. The wiring schematic will show you where the 3 wires (that connect to the Inertia switch) lead to. Just follow the wires and perform the continuity check with one test meter probe at the inertia switch connector and the other at wherever the wire leads to (should be 1 to the fuel pump, 1 to the Flowlock valve and the 3rd wire which connects to the ignition switch and the coil (confirm the actual colors on the wiring schematic for your car). If you have continuity at all of these places you can be certain the connector is for the Inertia switch. Hope this helps. Lou R