Lou R

Hi Paul, I checked the bolts on my slave cylinder as the car is completely apart anyway. The bolts are 10mm x 1.5 x 25mm length. Hope this helps. Lou R

Not sure if it's available in the UK or Europe but I use SEM Hot Rod Black. Very nice low sheen satin black specifically for exterior parts. I don't believe it's available in aerosol cans so proper spray equipment is required but it is fairly easy to apply, lays down nicely and looks very nice (doesn't have that black primer look often seen in satin shades). I've used it on metal, plastic and fiberglass and it adheres well if you follow proper prepping procedures. Lou R

Brian, I can't venture a guess on the canister location for an S1 but you may want to check the S1S2S3 Owners Group site - there's a thread going on now discussing the various fuel plumbing components (and their locations including the charcoal canister). Not sure if it's for an S1 but you can ask the question to the thread participants. Lou R

Roo, You are correct - the steel canister at the right rear of the S2 (inside the rear hatch behind the plywood panel) is (as you stated) the heater/A/C vacuum tank - not the charcoal canister. I was working from memory (never a good idea for me). Went to check my disassembly photos but couldn't find a suitable one. Thanks for clearing that up. Lou R

Gents, Not sure if this is the question but on my mostly original S2 the charcoal canister was located on the right rear side of the rear hatch behind the plywood panel (just forward of the rear light and just aft of the wheel well). Lou R

Hello All, Was wondering if anyone could explain the differences between the initial S1/S2 engine mounts vs. the later version fitted on chassis numbers beginning at 214G. The Parts Manual references the earlier version as "engine mounting bracket" whereas the later design is referenced as "engine mounting assembly" (with various adaptors and spacer). The Parts Manual seems very clear in indicating a later version was introduced. My car is a Federal S2 with an October 1978 build date and the chassis number would indicate it has the later version. I can't rely upon the existing set-up as it looks like modifications have been made. The Parts Manual doesn't illustrate the later version so I'm somewhat confused on what is and is not included. I've also checked Service Bulletin 1978/29 and it doesn't offer any additional info outside of the hear shield improvement. Anyone have any information ? Thanks, Lou R

Hi Paul, I believe the S1 brackets are the same as the S2 brackets. I have an S2. When I tried to measure the bolt thread I couldn't determine if it was a 5/16 - 20 TPI (1 inch long) or an M8 - 1.25 (35mm long). They both seemed to be right on the money ! I'll try to place a tap into the bolt hole in the block later today to see if I can get something more accurate. Also, my car has allen head bolts which I'm pretty certain were not original (indicating a change somewhere along the line). Lou R

Rob, My car is an S2 but they should be the same mounts unless your S1 is one of the very early ones. If the mounts are the same as the S2's (rubber pancake) then the nut is a 5/16 - 24 TPI. Hope this help. Lou R

Hi Vin, Could you please clarify some details for me. I'm converting my 79 Federal S2 to the Euro bumper and am a little confused on the number plate lamp mounting arrangement. Does the lamp/lens attach to a plastic (or some other material) mounting plinth (which is then screwed to the bumper) or does it simply sit atop the gasket ? SJ sells a "number plate lamp mounting plinth" (appears in the S3 section) as well as a "number plate lamp gasket". Can't really tell from your above photos (best I've seen so far - thanks !) what the correct arrangement is. Can you please clarify ? Seems odd if the lamp/lens only attaches to a rubber gasket between the lens and the bumper - seems the rubber would collapse when the screws are tightened (?). Many thanks. Lou R

Uwe, Thanks for the clarifications. The S1's are a bit different from the S2's but the info you've provided should make things easier. Thanks again - I appreciate the help. Lou R

Hi All, Was hoping someone could provide some information to help me determine the extent of work required to switch from an ugly Federal front bumper to the much nicer Euro version on my 79 S2. The Federal bumper has the lights mounted inboard and attached to the fiberglass body tub. I've been told previously that the lights on the Euro bumper are attached to the bumper and not to the fiberglass body tub Can someone confirm this for me ? Obviously, if the lights mount to the bumper it will be significantly easier than having to relocate them to the outer ends of the body tub. I'm sure a bumper swap won't be as easy as a simple bolt up but this is one variable I need to confirm. I've already decided to switch to a Euro rear bumper as well and I understand all the implications of doing this. My question on the rear bumper concerns the number plate lights. The Federal cars have a number plate "bucket" inserted into the rear of the light panel (very ugly). I was planing to install a repair (fill) panel in place of the existing "bucket" hole and fabricate a number plate holder of my own design (the USA number plates are so different from the Euro plates that I cannot use the Euro plate holder). My question concerns the number plate lights. I've seen some photos where the lights are mounted on the rear bumper and shine "up" to the number plate. Is this correct ? Many thanks. Lou R

Hi Giorgio, The cost of the plastic media is pretty expensive (here in the USA) so I would assume the additional cost for the labor would make it even more so. Maybe things are different in your corner of the world (?). I've investigated media blasting as a means of removing paint and have seen many warnings that it can do a lot of damage if the operator is not careful. Too much pressure can cause a lot of damage. If you decide to strip the paint by blasting (either by plastic media or soda blasting) be very careful the operator is experienced in removing paint from fiberglass bodied cars. Aside from the health issues of using chemical strippers they can leave a residue on the body which can take months to dry out (de-gassing). If they are still on the fiberglass when you apply the paint it is very likely it will cause problems with adhesion. Personally, I'm going to strip my car the hard way (by hand). It's much more work but I think it's the best alternative (my car still has the original paint so it will not be extremely difficult (we'll see). There are pros and cons to all stripping methods - just be sure you know the problems that each method can cause so you can minimize problems. Lou R

Hi Giorgio, Thanks very much for your offer. Before I borrow I would like to try to make a tool for this job (similar to what you had done when you rebuilt your gearbox). I can buy a 36mm crows foot wrench for about US$ 10 which I should be able to modify to fit the speedo nut. Can you please advise how you modified the wrench you used to remove the speedo nut. Did you use a hand held angle grinder and/or a Dremel tool or something different ? Thanks again. Lou R

Looks like my wrench wasn't up to the task. After applying significant torque to break the nut free the wrench started to warp out of shape. Next plan is to purchase a 36mm crows foot which will attach to my 1/2" socket wrench and allow me to fit my breaker bar for the necessary torque to break the nut free and also re-torque it upon re-assembly. Of course, I'll have to perform some surgery to get it to fit the nut but it looks like a workable solution. Looks like I'm on hold pending receipt of the new wrench and subsequent surgery. John, thanks for the offer to borrow your wrench. Hopefully, I'll be able to get over this obstacle with my new plan but I'll certainly keep your offer in mind if I run out of options. Thanks again. Lou R

Hi John, I spent quite a bit of time lying in bed last night thinking about this nut and how best to remove it. I've got some ideas on how I can restrain the box while pulling on the wrench to loosen the nut. It involves my making a jig to secure it but I think that's time well spent. That's today's project. The wrench I've been using to try and loosen the nut is a"thin" design - about 3mm thick. It's doesn't appear nearly as strong as your wrench but I'll hopefully find out today if it's up to the task. It also has a square hole on the end which will fit a 3/8" socket drive (which I can easily step up to a 1/2" drive using an adapter). If I'm successful in removing the nut with this wrench I'll try to also use it during the re-assembly. My wrench is just short of 12" long so I'll do some math beforehand to ensure I'm applying the correct torque. Thanks also for your link to your earlier write-up on the forum. I've only gotten about 1/4 of the way through it but it is both entertaining and informative - well written ! Thanks again. Lou R

Thanks for your accurate diagnoses. I looked at the gear a bit more closely and (in plain sight) saw where the nut was tapped into the slot on the shaft. The bad news is that after carefully selecting a proper tool to pry the nut free the tip broke off (of course !) and is lodged in the slot on the shaft. The good news is that it appears I was successful in unlocking/clearing the nut from the shaft so I'll give it a go tomorrow and try again to remove the nut. Hopefully, the nut will come free and the broken tool tip will simply fall away. John, I think you were correct when you stated I may have underestimated the pull required to remove this nut. In retrospect, the 36mm wrench I'm using may not be up to the task (it's a thin wrench - not a typical wrench that has been modified to fit the nut). I guess tomorrow will be a day of discovery when I try again to remove this nut. One further question, during re-assembly how does one torque this nut to the 120 ft/lbs when you cannot use a socket on the nut ? Thanks again, Lou R

Hi All, Decided to rebuild the Citroen transaxle in my 79 Federal S2. I initially planned to replace all 8 bearings and all synchros but after seeing a price quote for all these parts I decided to replace only those items that are worn (I will replace the carrier bearings regardless). I've got the box torn down to a point where I'm ready to remove the clutch shaft followed by the primary shaft but have encountered a few problems. Specifically, I cannot get my snap ring pliers deep enough to pry open the circlip that secures the clutch to the primary shaft. The manual states that should this circlip be difficult to remove the entire clutch shaft can be removed along with the primary shaft where the circlip can then be removed on the bench. This all sounds fine so the next step is to remove the primary shaft. One of the first steps to do this is to remove the speedometer drive gear. I have a suitable 36mm wrench to do this but for the life of me I cannot get it to budge. I’ve engaged reverse gear and tried to hold another gear in place (to lock the shaft) but it keeps slipping. Has anyone ever encountered this same problem ? I’ve gone through all the threads (including Giorgio’s) but haven’t come across a solution. Am I missing something ? Any advice would be most welcome. Many thanks, Lou R

Hi Simon, I searched for the same information for my 79 Federal S2 and eventually decided to use SEM's Hot Rod Black. It has a nice mix of satin vs. sheen and doesn't have that "primer" look that is often seen in the flat/satin blacks. I used it on my front spoiler, sills, engine cover, window frames and a number of other interior and exterior parts and I have to say I'm very pleased with the look (it's not like Hammerite - it has a smoother finish). I wasn't able to locate a Lotus code for the satin black paint that Lotus used so I can't say if this is exactly the same shade. But it sure looks nice. Hope this is of some help. Lou R

Hi Roo, I saw that one on Ebay but the green/yellow color scheme is incorrect (I think) for the S2's. I believe a silver/black scheme would be both correct and preferable (this color scheme would match the color scheme on the Speedline center caps as well). I'll keep looking. Thanks, Lou R

Hi Roo, Thanks. See attached photo. Condition is excellent - what looks like damage is just a reflection. Ever seen one of these before ? By the way, your car is gorgeous !!! Lou R

Hi All, My 79 Federal S2 had a JPS Momo wheel installed by the PO. I much prefer this wheel over the factory issue 2 spoke design so I'm planning to retain this wheel. My question is the center button. The one on my car now says "JPS" and is approximately 41 mm. I've never seen one like this before on other JPS cars and was wondering if someone more knowledgeable than I on JPS cars could comment on this. All of the JPS cars I've seen have a black and silver "LOTUS" center button. I'd like to replace this button with a "LOTUS" button but cannot seem to locate one. Does anyone have any knowledge on this particular center button - is it an aftermarket version ? Where can I obtain a replacement button that will fit this wheel ? Thanks, Lou R

Hi Antonio, I investigated the lug nuts extensively about a year ago in my effort to find some originals. I eventually located a full set of originals but they were in pretty sad shape so I had them replated. The specifications are 12mm x 1.5 TPI with a 60 degree seat. If you opt to have a custom set made to original specs and you need an original lug for a model you can source one from RD Enterprises (http://www.rdent.com) here in the USA. He has 3 originals left that he is selling for US$12 each. If you find it too expensive to reproduce an original set and cannot locate an original set you might want to look at a lug set that I bought just before I found the original set. They're not exact matches but they are reasonably close and look nice (I spent many hours trying to locate a good match). It's a bulge acorn design and the whole set of 16 lugs was only US$ 32. I wasn't able to upload a photo but you can see them at Custom Wheel Accessories' website at http://www.customwheelaccessories.com. The model number of the correct pattern/size lug is 5306FSP. If this is of any interest to you just follow-up with me and I can get you the manufacturer and other info if you would like to order a set. Good luck. Lou R

Hi Roo, Thanks for your response. I've been looking for quite some time but still haven't located a set of original Armstrongs. I'll keep looking and promise to get back to you if I can locate a source for these shocks. Out of curiosity, where did you get the Armstrong part numbers from ? I spent hours trying to determine the original part number but was never successful. Thanks again, Lou

Hi Giorgio, I looked at the copper line (that crosses the chassis) on my car (79 Federal S2) which I previously removed for my restoration. The filter end was cut off and I don't know if it had a threaded fitting or something different to connect to the filter. However, the fuel pump end looks to be a 1/2" fitting with 18 TPI. My fuel pump is an SU that was replaced by the previous owner but it is the correct pump for this car. Therefore, I think the fitting I noted above is correct. Hope this helps. Lou R

Hello Everyone, I've been getting some excellent help on various postings as I am in the early sages of restoring my Federal S2 (thanks everyone). I was wondering if someone could help me out with some missing pages in the Transmission section of my Workshop Manual. I've already pulled the engine/transaxle from the frame and I'm about ready to start overhauling the gearbox. As I was reading through my Workshop Manual I noticed I'm missing pages F9 and F10 in the Transmission section. Page F9 covers the "Clutch/Bellhousing" detail and page F10 covers "Drive or Input Shaft" detail. Could someone with the same Workshop Manual please scan these missing pages and post them as a response (or email them to me) so I can proceed with my gearbox overhaul. FYI, the Lotus part number that appears on the spine of my Workshop Manual is A079T0327Z. I'm reluctant to proceed with the teardown without these missing pages. Thanks, Lou R