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Everything posted by v8vantage
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You never know Fab, sometimes people just want to help because they understand what you are trying to achieve. Not everyone is in it for the money. Who knew you would find the skis over here in my neighbourhood, yet there they are on your car in the UK now. They may have the original plates in storage and have fitted later ones. Even if you just get the originals for display that would be a start.
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You can find the details on the engine mount upgrade in this thread, about halfway down are the photos of the Lotus by Claudius upgrade I have.
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Full on case of mission creep. May as well tear down the whole chassis and replace every bushing while you are at it. Strip the front end, remove the rad and recore, clean off the underside, plate all the nuts/bolts powdercoat suspension/brackets, fit new brake discs, rebuild brake calipers with stainless pistons/new seals, remove fuel tanks and clean properly or replace. Fit the Turbo radiator pack and electric fans, add new fusebox and extra relays for electrical circuits. Don't forget the upgraded turbo engine mounts whilst the engine is out. I reckon you may get to drive it by next summer unless you do the LHD to RHD conversion whilst its apart.
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Yes add axle stands to support engine as the rear upper gearbox mounts would be disconnected. I would not support the car on radius arms and shocks alone, the radius arm mounts are not designed/oriented for the torsional loads exerted without the gearbox/axle shafts connected.
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Dropping the gearbox with the engine in the car was really quite easy, gave me a chance to rebuild the brakes and UJs whilst doing the rear main seal. Powder coated and cad plated most of the bits whilst I was at it. Also resealed the gearbox and replaced the linkage bushings. Did the seals on the output shaft housings which tend to leak once they are worn.
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Having a small garage is going to make taking the engine out a risky business, do the basic maintenance and run it for a bit to see if everything is working correctly before taking it apart. Now the engine is clean you'll be able to see where the oil leaks are actually coming from. I always take the AC compressor off the mount and to the side when doing the timing belt on mine, gives more access.
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Leave it in and avoid mission creep! I did mine insitu but dropped the gearbox to fix the rear main seal. Everything else was pretty straightforward.
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Nice job, what sort of paint did you use to match the original black?
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If you drain your tanks try and derust them with this: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-Water-based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable/dp/B00370N1UG I let it sit for a week then drain and flush out with water and then dry with air hose. Look like new inside. I also use it in my ultrasonic cleaner to derust nuts/bolts/parts before re plating them.
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Keep all the original pieces, keeps the value if you ever sell and the new owner wants to return to original. Fit the SJ rear bumper and extended valance but keep the original exhaust. Remove air pumps and piping, easy to fit bungs to the head to block the holes. My car has had this done and runs fine. Do not swap the head with anyone, it's only original once.
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Funnily enough my carpets were the same as bathmats from Walmart. Fabric cleaner wont be enough for the seats, you need the hot water steamer to break the dirt/stains loose then use a wet vac to suck out the residue.