krytensmeghead

The only solution I can think of is to make some longer tubes for the nut to tighten against. I'll probably do that next time I take the entire radiator housing assembly out. This was required last time as one of the bolts holding the U bracket is about 10mm away from the fan motor.

Where did you get them from ? Mine's an S3 so not sure if the set up is the same. Thanks, Glen.

When I took the original rubber ones out. ( actually there wasn't much left of them ), the nyloc was tightened onto a tube which was basically being used as a squash tube to dictate the correct length between the flange and the nut. Maybe the tube needs to be a bit longer for the purple ones. From memory I think the bush kit came with new tubes but the same length as the old ones.

The purple ones are rock hard. This is the new one installed.

Finally got the Esprit running again after being off the road for about a year. The last things I did were to replace the coil with a non ballasted 12v 3ohm as suggested by the mechanic that sold me the new Lumenition setup. It still died after about 1/2 an hour driving and the box that the coil is in was hot to touch. I cut a hole in the bottom of the box and a slot in the side near the top with a small plate above it so water wouldn't go in there. It started running smoothly but then was running a bit rough after about 5 minutes driving but didn't stall again and I was able to make it back home after driving for a longer time than before. I let the engine idle and removed ignition leads one at a time, stopping the engine and replacing the lead. The engine didn't change when I removed no.3 lead but ran worse when I removed others so it appeared no.3 cylinder wasn't firing. I used long nose pliers to close the connector in the leads and they felt more of a solid connection on the plugs. Now it runs smoothly all the time. These are new leads I bought when I had fuel / carby issues and didn't know if the ignition was a factor at the time. During all this I found out there's a thing called a "Split Tray Tow Truck" that can get under the car without wrecking the front spoiler.

I have a noise coming from my servo in the esprit turbo. After reading this forum I'll replace the non-return valve first. The servo unit isn't available new from what I've found and I don't want to send a core unit to England. In case it's not the non-return valve, is there an equivalent servo that will fit the esprit turbo 1983 model ? I think it's Girling part no. 74049164R From what I've found it looks like the rebuild kit isn't available either so I don't know if I can even get mine rebuilt.

Exactly. I remember being "taught" we were heading towards an Ice Age when I was at school. Funny how the religion changed it's name from "Global Warming" to the more vague "Climate Change" as soon as the statistical records were revealed showing the Earth's temperature merely fluctuates and is well within the range it's been in for the last 10,000 years. It seems these days most research is driven by groups with an agenda and a predefined outcome.

The car came from Washington. US. I got the stainless exhaust from DMC Houston https://store.delorean.com/p-10337-stage-i-exhaust-upgrade.aspx I hadn't seen the Delorean Go site before this.

Thanks Chis, could you please share your method ?

I only bought the 2 rear quarter panels as far as the stainless goes. Yes got them from DMC.Houston The other panels are ok. Most of the work has been mechanical. A fair bit of the cost was labour including drilling out and tapping most of the bolts in the engine. Still have to do the exhaust studs. Spent thousands on shipping and import taxes - the exhaust system was a large box, then there's things like radiator and ac condenser, suspension, quarter panels, etc. I haven't worked on it for ages. It came to a stand still after having engine issues with the Lotus and I couldn't decide whether I wanted another car with an old school engine or to do a swap in the Delorean. I've pretty much decided to stick with the original engine now.

Hi Mark Here's some inspiration, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V9b0MrvS_8 There's some info here about common faults. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqbDJX3RLIc Mine cost $22,000 - not running and with panel damage. All the panels and parts can be bought from US but expensive when including shipping and exchange rate. Expect anything that isn't a stainless panel to be a sacrificial anode. I had to weld plates in the chassis - the cross member under the engine is a fairly common problem. I got a laser cut plate for that. The engine is ok. They have a bad rep from being strangled by US pollution laws. You can get the " stage 2 " stainless exhaust system which is much better. It's rear engine so the gearbox selection is pretty limited if you want to do any sort of drive train conversion. They're nearly all left hand drive so hard to see oncoming traffic when overtaking. After replacing most of the parts mine owes me over $60,000 and I still haven't got the chassis back in it so in hind sight probably better to spend the money on a good one.

I've been thinking about the Subaru box for a while, but I'd only do it if I could fit an H6 engine in there as well. My esprit turbo engine has never been reliable even though I've replaced almost everything to do with the fuel and ignition systems. It's on it's last chance now. I've just had the dellortos ultrasonically cleaned again and getting rid of the lumenition system while the carbies are out. The 1st gear ratio is a bit too high to use in traffic compared to most cars. It's more suited to racing. Injectors are easier to replace than rebuilding carbies, electronic ignition and no timing belt and a simple cooling system. I just don't know if it would be too wide for the chassis. Then there's the whole inboard brake thing to think about and centre diff to disable. So not as simple after all. Anyone else thought about the H6 ?

The idle galleries are blocked. There is no difference between fully open and fully closed on the idle adjustment after disassembly and cleaning with carby cleaner and compressed air so they're disassembled again and need to be ultrasonically cleaned. The only thing I don't know how to get out is the inner shaft seals. Would these be ok going through the ultrasonic cleaner ? It's one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/6L-Digital-Stainless-Steel-Dental-Medical-6-Liter-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Heater-Tank/201481332843?epid=9025027859&hash=item2ee939286b:g:fQwAAOSwNphWZzgl:rk:35:pf:0 I think he's using non caustic degreaser or some sort of non foaming detergent. The bearings are out. Also need to do something about the butterfly screws. Looks like they're single use only but may be able to cut the end off that looks like a helicoil and use loctite. Really need to know about the seals going through the cleaning process. I suspect I won't be able to get them out without damaging them, or get new ones quickly, or get the new ones in. I don't know if there is a more appropriate place to ask this as I'm trying to get this done with the limited time I have off but the carby experts are also on holidays. Thanks, Glen.

I cleaned them out as best I could with carby cleaner and compressed air but the idle circuit appears to be blocked. If I can be bothered working on it again I'll get them ultrasonically cleaned ( again ) and replace the ignition with the hall effect one while the carbies are off. The one thing I didn't think of when I replaced everything before was the steel pipe going from the filter to the engine. That will be replaced with a hose this time. It probably needs to run on LPG if it's not being driven all the time.

I thought it might help if this wasn't in the carbies