gfallon

i also need to adjust my mixture but the manuel does not say how to remove the plug. my k-jet guy in Australia said drill it out does anyone know if this is removable? or do i have no choice but to drill it out?

the plunger in the fuel distribution assembly. I think I may have to much fuel pressure to the top center line on the fuel distributor ( line going from warm up regulator to dis) the plunger is not moving with light throttle inputs and if you push on it it takes more pressure than you would think to push it down yourself. I will need to barrow a fuel presser tester and see how much I have there, so the question then is how to adjust the warm up regulator? I know about the "pin" but does it need to go down or up to lower the pressure

SO, I have been able to get it to start and run by bleeding the air out of the system and giving a gap at the plunger. but it stumbles with light throttle inputs and only under 2,000 rpm. any ideas at what may be causing this issue?

will check the rpm relays this weekend and see. I think I have a spare one also I can try

yes, starting fuel is a spray can. so starting spray so the first time I start the car it will run for about 6 seconds which is the cold start injector, and then dies. the next time you try to start it nothing. so its like the cold start injector will only fire that one time and no more. I would think if the engine is cold it should fire every time you try to start it, not just one time. I rebuilt the warm up regulator 2 years ago and it has been running fine till now, but will check anyway. the air sensor plate moves freely (if that is what I think you are talking about, or the metering vain should also be the same thing.) I don't remember if I heard the fuel pumps key on and engine off but I hot wired them to by pass that and still nothing I tested the fuel pumps themselves 100psi each ( did try to test at the distributor but got different readings each time and they never were what the book called for. not sure if it was the way I tested it of if the fuel press gauges I barrowed from the parts store was not working correct. (the first one I barrowed was broken and missing parts so took it back and got another from a different place)

I am working on a friends 1986 lotus esprit turbo with the bosch injection. I started working on his car due to a poor cold warm up issue, it sounded to me like it was too lean when cold. I rebuilt the warm up regulator 2 years ago and remembered how to change the fuel mixture and was able to get it running rather good. but decided to do a smoke test on the intake system and found the injectors all leaking air. so I replaced the O-rings on all the injectors. NOW IT WILL NOT START! I can get it to run on starting fuel so I am confident it is a fuel delivery problem I took off the fuel line to one injector and I have no fuel going to it when trying to start. I thought maybe something was wrong with the fuel distributor so I got a rebuild kit and everything look good in there but some tired o-rings but it changed nothing, still no start. I checked the fuel pumps for pressure and they tested 100psi so I am sure they are good and the fuel filter has a new lotus sticker on it so it has been changed not too long ago anyone have an idea of what could be going on with this? or an idea of what else to check? it will fire on the cold start injector for a few seconds but will only do it once. I would think it should fire every time I try to start as long as its cold. any thoughts on that?

I have a 1986 esprit turbo with the bosch fuel injection I am in need of some parts to rebuild my fuel distributor inside it are 4 springs, seats and caps the caps are made of plastic and mine are cracked and falling apart does anyone know were I can find these? I have been looking but no luck so far thanks for all the help

GOT IT RIGHT! used the color tune again and was able to richen up a little more but it was # 4 the last one it looked more lean then the others so richen it and smoothed right out. I did count the number of turns out and I am at 9, the how to power tune book said any more then 7 and you can step up. so yes I can get the next step up on the jet at some point. its been raining a lot so have not gotten to drive it yet but I am sure it will be good thanks to everyone for all the help

Gis i red your link on the carbtune and one thing i noticed is about the restrictors. one of my restrictors was broken (mine screw into the top of an extension, one had the screw broke off) so that may cause some of the fluctuation i see. it is weird that the engine pops at the same time. number 1 is the one with no restrictor but cyl 2 also reacts at the same time also i have the how to power tune book. i am also helping a friend restore a 1959 alfa romeo giulietta veloce. i got the book to help with his webbers

I richened up the idle jets and it did get better, it still does the same thing just not as pronounced. cly 1 and 3 will fluctuate together, 1 goes down and 3 goes up, so 1 loses some vacuum and 3 adds some vacuum. I can here the engine pop out the exhaust each time it happens. i will look at the color tune tonight (easier to see when its dark) but my afr reads 12 and 13's ( it was in the 14's) i looked at the notes the previous owned made, he changed some jets, not the idle jet's. idle jet is a 52 changed the main jet from a 165 to a 170 changed the main air correction jet from a 230 to a 210

you can see the ruff idle in the video I checked the color tune and they are all blue in color so should be good will look into the accelerator pump I also changed timing to 15 degrees at idel. (was 10) 20180521_200205_001.mp4 It did seem to help but not much

have not done that yet. I do have one so will take a look thanks

I have a few questions about getting my newly rebuilt engine tuned right. this my first go with dellorto carbs ( lots of experience on su and stromberg ) and a first carb turbo setup. so what I have is a 1983 us car but the pervious owner removed all the emissions. so no cat, no smog pump, no air rails. also the last time he rebuilt the engine he put the pistons and liners from the 88 spec car, so it has the 8:1 pistons and nikasil liners. also a port n polished head and he set the boost at 10psi. it also has an msd timing computer because all the emissions have been removed I have it set up for the euro specs. so the cam timing and ignition timing you can see in the pic I have been working on getting it right and I have it pretty close but cannot seem to get it just right I have ignition timing at 10 deg @ idle and 28 deg @ 4,000rpm ( book said 12deg @ idle ) was able to get the idle down to 1,000 rpm ( had been at 1,800 I found the linkage needed to be re adj) you can see in the pic I have the carbs kind of balanced. does it need to be at a specific number or just level? problem is I still have a hesitation at light throttle inputs and the idle is not perfectly smooth ( so while driving after you let off throttle and when you first go to throttle the rpm will drop for a half second. really only a problem when pulling from a stop) would this be a carb problem or a timing problem? also I installed an afr gauge anyone know what numbers I should be looking for? at idle, cruzing rpm and at wot? right now I have 14.2 - 14.6 at idle. I think it was 10:1 at half throttle and 5psi. have not pushed any more than that

I had a fitment issue with mine also. its a different problem from the others. the turbo placement in incorrect with mine it may also be at the wrong angle. you can see I had to have a .75 inch spacer made so the "turbo" tube would bolt up to the plenum. I already had a nice ss exhaust that the previous owner put on back in the 80's but with the turbo placement being off it was very difficult to get everything to fit correctly, but I was able to get it all to fit so I am happy with it. only thing is I misplaced my nice turbo support plate so I made one that bolts up to the trans and used the link that was supplied. I would like to find out if I can get another one that way it will be supported on both sides of the turbo

so I was looking through my Manuel and I was wrong about the type of cam I have. the gears have 105 on them but according to the book and the markings on the cam they are 107. which is what it should have in it. but I was wondering why the cam gears have 2 marks on them, I did not see anything about that in the Manuel. I am assuming the one marked in white is the one I should set it with. is this correct?