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Steve4012

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Posts posted by Steve4012

  1. I've been having some running temperature issues with my dry sump the last couple of months. Under normal driving it was fine but as soon as I gave it some boost the temperature would climb to somewhere between 90 and the next line on the gauge and not come back down for the rest of the journey whether flowing traffic or not. I changed the thermostat and found a small leak also but it still persisted. This morning upon start up I noticed the oil pressure was low. You can't just look at the dipstick on a dry sump to check, it needs to be run then checked and not wanting to do this I topped the oil up a little and started the car. Oil pressure was still low and looking into the oil tank the level was high but the oil was also very frothy and of a thin consistency. I believe I'm losing coolant into the oil. I've drained the oil and it seems very thin. I've boiled the oil in a pan and it sizzles and crackles more than new oil so I presume that confirms coolant is present so I think it's looking like head gasket failure. Ps a combustion check with the blue liquid does not indicate this but it's probably possible to get coolant into oil, without gasses into coolant(?)

    Anyway if anyone has any words of wisdom I'm all ears, is it a case of taking the head off and inspecting the head gasket and if so leave the engine in or remove from car? 

    Thanks in advance,  Steve. 

  2. On 11/08/2019 at 10:39, David Pattison said:

     

    Pic of my input shaft attached - cant see where the circlip would hold, looking down the input tube there does not seem to be a ridge of sorts to hold a clip

    20190811_112335_resized.jpg

    If the gearbox end of the input shaft is that worn, is it also likely there's damage inside the gearbox as well?

  3. On 21/05/2020 at 21:53, esprit22 said:

    So started car up but when idleing there was a buzzing noise, when brake pedal pressed the noise changed, so definitely an electrical noise. Found that noise was coming from n/s rear, is there a fuel pump located in hat area? Seems odd if there is, as the turbo wastegate is that side??

    Is there a vacuum pump on an 86 turbo? From your first post, yes the fuel pump is close to the n/s fuel tank under the car and this buzzes constantly when ignition is on. This is normally drowned out by engine noise when idling but easy to jack car up and have a listen. 

  4. I've had this on my '85 turbo as well. It was a squeaking at idle and with a tiny bit of pressure on the clutch pedal it stopped, release the pressure and it returned. It was a squeak between the clutch fork and release bearing collar. I managed to get a few drops of thick oil though a tube inserted through the clutch fork hole into the right area and it was gone. I could make it happen simply by moving the clutch fork with my hand and the squeak was there with the engine off.

    • Like 1
  5. Here's my 81 turbo for reference, the engine cover sits around the raised inner lip. As @910Esprit says it looks like a standard engine cover will not fit anyway as the surround is a completely different shape. It does look like it's a different design for that particular market so you may have to try and make (or have made) an engine cover to that particular shape.

    20180923_164731.jpg

  6. 1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

    Ok Mocal  thermostat all connected no problem. More importantly the brand new thermostat works perfectly under testing. The valve actuates almost immediately as the operating  temperature is reached. Both of the original ones in my opinion were not operating correctly.  Heres the one I used. It actuates at 80 degrees not 82 for the pedantic memebers of the forum! Its better than the original because the smaller bore pipe is the same diameter as the pipe it connects onto. The originals pipe was about 2 mm too big! 

    IMG_1092.thumb.JPG.3527d42d7e0e8020d8ec691cdaafb1a8.JPGIMG_1093.thumb.PNG.4a118d34fdf56380748836e1b60c1e5b.PNG

    Good info Fabian thanks. I take it the flow directions/ orientation of 'stat are the same as original?

  7. 3 hours ago, Lex Templar said:

     

    His Other car is an 82 white dry sump with full red cloth interior. Serial number TBA. 
     

    Would love to see some pics of this as I have a silver '81 dry sump with full red cloth interior.

    Steve.

  8. I've had misfire problems and found a timing light to be invaluable. I put it on all four leads one after the other and rev through the range. I found intermittent and momentary spark loss on plugs 3 and 4. I replaced the new cap and rotor arm back to the original pair which I swapped out to simply refresh when the engine was out and it's now running fine. At least you can confirm consistent spark that way. 

  9. I'm not sure the bearing is on the friction plate hub Gis, I think that image just makes it look like it. The original problem (or one of them) was the bearing and splines on the pressure plate had a tiny tolerance. Things have moved on though, the problem is no longer the bearing slipping through now I have a different pressure plate and bearing, just I have an unpleasant judder through the clutch pedal when depressed. The clutch is back on with a newly skimmed flywheel, now I'll get the gearbox back on hopefully it'll be OK. 

  10. You're right to ask and I've thought this also. The engine was rebuilt just prior to me buying it by Pat Thomas, a well known Lotus Specialist, now retired and I trust the job was done correctly. I've had the sump off to reseal and the pistons do indeed look brand new. Also I've tried to move the crankshaft now I have the flywheel back off and can't feel any movement at all. I didn't want to pry too hard but I'll see if I can get the required tolerance play before I put the flywheel back on. 

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