MartynB
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Posts posted by MartynB
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Hey @notabene
I don't know if you already found my posts on doing exactly this mod, but if not, try here...
... as you can see I did have to make a small mod to the spacer, using a small lathe which I luckily own. Maybe you have access to one, or know someone who does. I also made some spacers to assist with correct assembly, and changed the bolts for longer ones.
I suspect the spacer that George linked to avoids all this messing about, so I'd go with that instead.
I'm not sure you can actually drop the stock seats by much, because the seat hangs down below the mounts, so dropping the mounts doesn't get you far. Certainly not 2" unless I'm completely mistaken. Maybe it was different on the S?
Hope that helps
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Thanks for the write up Peter. Sorry it's taken me so many months to log into the forums. This year hasn't been the smoothest.
Looks like the HID is better for real world driving visibility, out at distance. A bit hard to compare the wet vs dry tarmac. Dry kicks back so much more light than wet.
Cheers
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It's worth noticing that the Pioneer units are resistive touch (i.e. single finger presses into the surface slightly, and scrolling/dragging is hard) whereas the Alpine CarPlay units are multi-touch capacitative like a smartphone/tablet screen. Worth trying one of each before committing that much cash.
I'm beginning to consider a solution like the Alpine iLX-F903D, with its 9", non folding but posable screen.
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Does look like Scarlet. That Sakhir Orange looks much better on it than most BMWs
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... apart from the Nürburgring Combined Circuit.
Looks great though. That's going to be taxing to learn. Nice that it's so compact for incident handling.
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Both tracks look great fun and the Exige is making a decent account of itself.
BTW, do you know that you're holding lock all the way to corner exit rather than blending into the throttle? I know it's something I've worked on and so I kept noticing it in both vids. It doesn't seem to be losing you a huge amount, but might be something to bear in mind.
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LOL!
Weigh yourself with and without the panel and subtract the two. Just sayin'
Love those aero catches
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Hi Phil
I'll give this a go. Let me say you are asking fairly reasonable, technical questions but are skirting the edge of overthinking it
The response curves of the speakers are theoretical and will vary substantially once housed in the car. The graphs/numbers are probably based on an idealized scenario. IRL they will tend to have odd resonant behaviour that means you will end up tuning by ear to some extent. I got myself a plug in reference mic for the iPad which is helpful in smoothing out the crossover from sub to fronts, particularly, adapting the sub parameters to the front speakers and avoiding big resonances in the foot well. I use SpectrumView, but any spectrum analyser app will generally do, and you can probably use the built in mic at least for finding odd booms and spikes.
Your approach is sound, cut over at 80Hz, i.e. as low as you can match, and I'd pick a reasonably soft roll off, so that you don't get obvious transitions on sweeps. So if you intend to use the crossover features of the H/U, I'd use 6dB/octave.
HTH
Martyn
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@Sport220 Good grief! Full tilt round Monza. Helmet strap hanging loose. What could go wrong?
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On 03/03/2018 at 06:55, geartox said:
Reminds me of this, around 0:50...
Dictionary says:
dicey
ˈdʌɪsi/
adjective informalCold ZZRs in the wet.
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14 hours ago, GFWilliams said:
One of the rear lights keeps cutting out too, but that is actually my fault due to using the wrong plug so I need to find the correct one, which is the same as the factory plugs and has a clip to hold it in, instead of using cable ties to do so.
I'm assuming you mean the Econoseal connectors. I bought a full set from Pole Vault for the Caterham which also uses them for lighting and other loom. you do need a small non-nsulated terminal crimp tool though...
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html
tool e.g.
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Huh!? That rear toe is, err, adventurous...
Spec is 0.2 (400) or 0.3 (410 & 430), which translate to 0° 12' or 0° 18', I guess hence their range on the sheet.
But they've chosen to set the car up with pretty much zero rear toe. Could get a bit dicey.
Similar story with the front. They've definitely set it up more lively than Lotus spec the GT430.
I'm guessing the stability you are feeling is the increase in caster (assuming that SAI is same as KPI). At 10° increasing to 11° that's pretty huge. I wonder if I'm missing something about that measurement.
It'll be interesting to see how you feel about it on twisty roads.
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Speaking only for myself, from the passenger footwell there is a large cable bundle that goes through a rubber gland seal up into the front access panel area, and the jump lead connections there. I then took a supply from there, with an inline blade fuse holder. Obviously, you have to run an earth wire as well as power. I didn't want to splice into the audio loom for earth, so I took both lines from the jump terminals. Switched power comes from the head unit loom though.
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That looks hellish good in black!! Nice
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IIRC the Hero 4 was the last one with old school centre spot metering. The 5 and 6 now have touch selection of metering area. It can be auto or fixed exposure, but it doesn't survive power cycling, so you have to remember to set it each session. More flexible, but also more annoying.
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cheers guys, useful info
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14 hours ago, alias23 said:
20mins - Thats very good work! I had to use a heat gun to remove the sills that took 10min per side in itself. Did you remove the whole of the side A post trim?
Imran, am I right in thinking the heat was for the adhesive / foam tape? If so, is that just near the rear or all the way along?
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Eh, Luigi. Pass the large hammer!
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Difference in track. Sounds about right. As long as it's front minus rear
Not that there are ANY specs on that sheet at all.
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They're usually a TRS branded part like that, but obviously not all...
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Looking the bomb there, Stephen!
Sorry about the S/C confusion.
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5 miles?! Good grief, that's terrible. AND it's not even central! Hope you get something sorted. That looks like a car fire waiting to happen
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Yellow mats FTW! Oh and carpet slippers
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Black S/C with plaque - high 5!
Difference in track. Sounds about right. As long as it's front minus rear 
Exhaust noise track limit - MY18 facelift Sport 350
in Engine & Ancillaries/Gearbox
Posted
Oh I do love it when racing teams use regular track days as cheap testing days and cause red flags every ten minutes. Means we can all have lots of fun sitting in the pits and queueing to go back out.
No, that's not right, I f***ing hate that!! Grrr.
Good to know on the noise limits.