#84

There was a factory Motorsport option based on the original manifolds with the catalysts replaced by pipes. So, a cut and weld operation. Some markets had engine bay cooling fans factory fitted. The electrical system is prepared. You may be able to buy the parts, or equivalent, since such fans are available at decent price these days. It is the rear bank that is by far worst.

.. and finally something exciting. It hasn't been completely straight forward to go E85. The original plan was to do it by the end of 2018. For various reasons, I paused the plan until I had a fully functioning stand alone ECU solution. Being first out in Sweden with the EMU Pro 16 proved to add some hick ups and on top of that kind of annoying finding the fuel pump dimensioning calculator on DW's website to be completely off, which caused me another month once the season started. Yes, I did even speak to DW... The plot below is for about 65 % Ethanol. We didn't get further until the tank was full and we were out of E100. The fuel level float happens to be the most tricky sensor to get right with an aftermarket ECU. The signal level is really low. Hence, the day started with too much E30. Going up to E46, E60 and then E65 gave clear and predictable performance improvements each time. Hence we are confident that the mapping holds all the way up to E100. But it will be verified. And yes. Oh man what a sound and what a throttle response! Lotus_Evora_S_ESW306_PSI-Motor_dyno250605.pdf Maybe easier with a jpeg

Something great is going on here!

Full ball joint spec adjustable upper rear wishbone from RRR Engineering fitted. More details in this therad: https://forums.thelotusforums.com/topic/114180-rear-upper-wishbone-cracks/?&page=3#findComment-1062022

I went for RRR's race spec outer bushing (spherical bearing) and a ball joint from TRW (ZF) for the inner ones. These TRW ball joints are essentially as the OE outer ones, so not full race spec, but a kind of solid bushing. They are OE replacement for Mercedes and cost €18 each, but requires a steel insert bridging from 40 mm to the 43 mm in the arm + spacers to reach up to 62 mm linstalled length. Quite a lot of work on a manual lathe, given that the steel inserts must have double press fit (inner + outer).

Next mini-project. It wasn't part of this winter's plan, but the rear brake discs are completely worn and cracked, so it is now I should upgrade. As far as I can see, there are no options on the market that are both fully floatng, axially and radially, and offers an upgrade in diameter and thickness and fits in 18" wheels. The front 362x32 conversion I made, have worked absolutely flawless. Right now, I am awaiting some feedback from the disc supplier, before I decide on exact dimensions, but this is how it looks now:

FlexFuel / E85 is now working. In EcuMaster PRO-16 we figured out that you do not only have to allocate an input, you do also have to send values on that channel. You set the sampling frequency under "Logged Channels" for alcohol contents and fuel temperature under "Sensors". PRO-16 is new and works fundamentally different from the older EMU Black, so the local tuners appears to not be fully on top of how it works. Next up is publishing my latest kinetmatics measurements of the Evora suspension. I have a thread on this on Lotus Talk (US Lotus forum), where they are more into ground up re-builds, or development of performance related components.

The Ecumaster PRO-16 now offer OBD II functioanlity, so some time before Christmas I activated it and it seems to work very well. Purpose? Well, they want to check OBD at MOT, so it is always good to have it working. Additionally, one can use Harrys laptimer to film on trackdays and overlay both phone information and vehicle information, such as throttle position, rpm, gear and brake. Or, you can use it on the road to temporarily add more gauges showing engine information. I met the founder and some of the guys developing Ecumaster products at PRI motorsport exhibition in Indianapolis, just before Christmas, and learnt a few tips and trixes. So, now we have a GPS reciever on the shpping list, as well as CAN to Bluetooth. The latter in order to move even more functionality to a phone, in order to also send commands to the ECU. Never ending project :-)

I just came home from the SEMA show in Las Vegas, where I among other things (besides working most of the time), looked at different suspension components. These will do the job as inner bushings at $39 each: https://www.spcalignment.com/component/content/article?id=291 Check Check #15624 in the list. Sold via Summit Racing and other retailers. A hard chromed ball in a spherical bearing, like Rodobal, or Carl Hirschmann, etc, is one step up in quality, but then you are into a built "bushing" such as the ones Elise Parts, or JUBU Performance offers. Nitron do also have a kit, not for Evora, but if you ask them they can double the number of one of the items and create an Evora kit - as I understand it.

For the time being, to be able to use the car during this week. A new set from RRR are on order. It will be interesting to see of a stick weld (MMA) wild last.

Interesting. I looked on an old creen dump from Instagram of these wihbones the other day and checked if these were available, but no. Then I discovered the crack in the left one and now they are available 😍

Thanks for digging up that thread. I remember that I've seen it in the past, but hadn't realised that my wishbone also was completely cracked. It is. And that explains why it opens up in hard right hand turns. When I overhauled it before season start (glas blastering and clear coating), I saw that the surface along the forging tool split line really asked for a fracture. I actually considered to weld it, but obviously didn't do it.. Most likely I will convert it to a M16, or M18, rod end and for more adjustability.

Many things going on. Had the car on the dyno two weeks ago and have bought two cans of race spec E100 and one E85. Well, it didn't turn out that well. But a fun day and a good exercise. The Flexfuel sensor didn't want to co-operate, so we disabled it in the ECU after a few hours of work (paid for a full day...) and on top of that some exhaust leakage with the new (too thin??) gaskets and not full boost. OMG what a day. However we produced som PROPER pops & bangs & flames and looking into the exhaust from behind at full load was like looking into a jet fighter's exhaust while strapped to an aircrafft carrier, befrore take off. Well, something in that direction 🙉

Hi, Anyone else with this issue? The car has made just over 50 000 km and I first thought it was the transmisison making unpleasant noise. AS you can see in the picture, the wishobone has slided back and forth hitting the upright.

Maybe it could be of value to add that these two damper sets are measuring quite similar to each other in a range of settings where I found them to work best and they are not that different from the stock dampers either, in terms of overall F vs v characteristics. But the real result differs substantially, for reasons other people are better on explaining than me. The 46 R1's are actually, despite matched with brutally stiff springs, quite forgiving over rougher obstacles - i.e. less harshness, which is confirmed in dyno tests over a higher velocity range than presented in most plots. The Club Sports are less forgiving in that particular respect, but otherwise more civilized.