EspritBoy98

The spark plugs in the Esprit's V8 engine are hard to get at to say the least. Not only are they deep down in 6" or so narrow bores, there are accessories in the engine bay so close to the head of the bores that it renders most common tools and techniques useless. The air filter coves obstruct direct access to the plugs and these covers in themselves are very difficult to remove as lower bolts are so close to he engine that routine tools cannot be used! As I am experiencing misfiring due to water ingress to the ignition system, before I sort out the gasketing of the spark plug well covers, possible engine vent covers, etc., I felt it necessary to remove and inspect each spark plug for cracked ceramics, fouling or any other issues caused by running underwater! I suggest working on a single plug at a time. Tools: spark plug boot pulling wrench; 16mm / 5/8" spark plug socket, magnetic; 8" flexible socket extension that matches spark plug socket; standard ratchet which matches the flexible extension; standard, 6" rigid extension which matches the socket and ratchet; torque wrench which matches the solid extension. Tools required spark plug boot wrench loose engagement partial engagement full engagement Removal Procedure: a) with the spark plug well covers removed (three bolts, be careful not to rip the gasket that is revealed), use the boot pulling wrench to carefully remove the black rubber boots from the plugs. These boots are very long to connect to the spark plugs deep inside the engine. b) use compressed air to blow down the plug bores to blow out particles that could otherwise end up in the cylinder once the spark plug is removed. c) attach the flexible extension to the magnetic socket with a partial engagement. Slowly tilt the assembly to be parallel to the bore and insert down the bore until the socket seats on the exposed spark plug (some bending required). Wiggle the flexible extension to disengage it from the socket. Remove extension (some bending required). d) insert the rigid extension until it meets the socket already in place. Use a loose engagement. Take the standard ratchet or torque wrench (for a longer moment arm thereby easier to use) and use a loose engagement onto the exposed end of the rigid extension. e) with smooth force, undo the spark plug and use the ratcheting action until a few plug rotations have taken place. f) remove the ratchet and rigid extension. Due to the loose engagement, the socket should remain on the spark plug. Position the flexible extension down the bore and push it into the socket so a full engagement occurs. Continue to undo the plug. The standard ratchet may be used, fully engaged. g) once loose, the plug/socket/flexible extension can be removed from the bore (some bending required). Inspection/Cleaning: a) With the spark plug in hand, inspect the firing end and look for excessive sooting, fouling deposits, burned and eroded electrodes, thread condition, presence of metal ring gasket and look for fine cracks in the ceramic insulator. b) use a clean, cotton cloth to clean the electrodes, thread, and ceramic insulator. Apply dielectric grease (I used Permatex Dielectric Grease PX #22064) to the ceramic insulator and terminal in a a thin layer. Apply a very small smear to the threads. Apply a thin layer of the dielectric grease to the entire spark plug boot surfaces. Press the spark plug into the end of the boot. It should 'click' into place. remove plug; it is now ready to reinstall. Installation Procedure: a) place the spark plug into the magnetic socket and engage the flexible extension using a partial engagement. As in Removal c). b) remove the flexible extension by wiggling as before and replace with rigid extension using a loose engagement. Twist the extension to tighten the spark plug in its socket. Use the standard ratchet with a loose engagement until the plug snugs itself down. c) Remove the standard ratchet and replace with torque wrench using loose engagement. Set wrench to torque setting recommended in the owner's manual and torque down to this setting. d) remove the torque wrench and solid extension. Replace with the flexible extension pushed into place using the full extension. Pull the socket/flexible extension assembly out of the bore. e) replace the now greased boot and push until a 'click' is felt/heard showing proper connection with the spark plug's terminal. If any others out there are experiencing water ingress from rain/car washing through the two heat grilles in the rear deck, I increased the performance of the gaskets under the plug well covers by coating all relevant surfaces of the gasket and gasket bearing surfaces with Permatex 2 Form-A-Gasket sealant #58922. I also coated the three bolt sockets prior to reinstalling the cover bolts. I will be investigating some sort of suspended grille covers to have in place whilst outside in the rain. These suspended covers must still allow full heat escape from the engine bay. More to come! Peter Goodings