Simba

The SSQV is one of the best valves on the market. It's one of the few with a dual chamber design that prevents it from leaking in off-throttle and idle conditions. In order to use it on the Esprit, you'll either need to weld the flanges on to the turbo pipes (or make new ones), or use a hose adapter that will allow you to use the valve with a silicone t-hose. Megan Racing makes said flange adapter for the SSQV. Both the adapter and valve can be had from horsepowerfreaks.com in the US (no affiliation). I would avoid piston and diaphragm type valves, they're generally not known for their ability to seal properly.

I use the following, which in my experience/opinion are the best available fluids: Transmission - Redline MTL Engine Oil - Royal Purple 5w40 Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue Power Steering - Royal Purple Max EZ Coolant - Toyota Red Coolant + 1/2 bottle Redline water wetter Battery - Optima Yellow Top deep cycle. As to why-- Gearbox seems to like MTL more than anything else I've tried, which is basically everything. Hardly any crunch on a fast 1-2 shift. RP are the only ones who have a quality synthetic in 5w40, which in my experience is the best overall weight for both startup protection and general (ab)use in turbocharged engines. ATE Super Blue is simply the best brake fluid made. I've boiled Motul 600 on the track, but not super blue. RP's PS fluid tends to be the best at preventing foam and keeping pump noise down. Toyota's red coolant is pretty much the best to be had anywhere. I've run virtually everything in dozens of bikes and cars, from off the shelf Prestone to Evans-- Toyota's sauce is most always a few degrees cooler, especially when flogging it, and tends to have the lowest electrical conductance across several vehicles I've tested, which is important for preventing electrolysis in aluminum radiators. Optima batteries-- zero maintenance, superb performance, great warranty, flexible mounting options.

Well, first off, I can't imagine what the heck the problem would be in posting this information. It's commonly available with a copy of the service manual and a bit of poking around. That is, of course, aside from the fact that to even get to the immobilizer, one needs to thoroughly rip the car apart. Somehow, I can't see a thief bringing the tools and skills required to accomplish disabling the immobilizer to a dark parking lot, much less spending half an hour pulling things apart with the siren going off, counting pins to figure out which ones to jump, etc, etc. No, I'm not a Clifford dealer. I get my units through a dealer I have a relationship with and install them myself. The lack of a warranty or any support from Clifford is worth the peace of mind in knowing it's done right, and nobody else knows where the sensitive bits are. I've never had a moment's trouble with a Clifford unit, and I've installed over a dozen of them thus far.

Thanks very much for the pointer. I managed to figure it out. [Mod - Details of how to bypass the factory alarm removed - not a good idea to post details of how to bypass the factory alarm - Oneshot]

I'm doing a bit of work to a friend's 2000 Esprit V8 he just purchased, and in the process am yanking the fairly useless Cobra alarm and replacing it with a better Clifford unit. I'm wondering if anyone has any information with regard to the starter immobilizer unit. I'm assuming that it cannot simply be unpluged, and that a few of the wires will need to be jumpered in order to have the starter work correctly. However, I haven't been able to find any documentation or wiring schematics on the immobilzer. If someone who has yanked the original alarm can give me a few pointers, I'd appreciate it.