fjmuurling

I used the SJ tool T000T0681F for inserting the driveshaft seals. I came with the handle. See the picture on their website. There is also a small fitting guide. The only problem I had with the SJ tool was that it didn't want to slide nicely over one of the splined driveshafts. But some "elbow grease" in combination with some sandpaper (or similiar) to smooth out the bore in the tool fixed the problem. Any sealant which sticks on metal, forms an elastic seal and is resistant to oil will work. I would not use the loctite 5331, the Hylomar you mentioned looks like to do the job properly. Use some gearbox oil on the inside diameter of the seal when using the tool. (not on the outside of the seal). Have Fun , Freek

Rusted piston / cylinder bore in the slave Cylinder? If the slave cylinder / piston is damaged it will get stuck. Moisture / water can enter the slave cylinder if the rubber boot is damaged at the end of the clutch slave cylinder.

Maybe this is an idea : https://www.aluminumrepair.com/

Hi Travis, Thanks for the answer. I made a mistake in te above posting, it should have been Loctite 586 (and not 583). I need something for mounting the cooling water connections on the Turbo (the brass fittings). I guess Loctite 586 will do the job.

I'm looking for an alternative (Loctite) for Permabond A134. I was thinking about Loctite 583 but am not sure.

Three ways to clear them. 1 - disconnect the ECM from the battery, but you will also lose the "learning" parameters. 2 - with freescan or espritmon. 3 - After 50 "clean" starts (i.e. no (new) errors while running) the codes are reset. (this is for a SE and a S4S AFAIK)

Some years ago I used SKF bearings, payed around 35 euro per side. SKF LM 67048/010/Q for the Front Inboard. (SKF LM 67048/Q (Cone) & LM 67010/Q (Cup)) SKF LM 11949/910/Q for the Front Outboard. (SKF LM 11949/Q (Cone) & LM 11910/Q (Cup))

Hi Dave, Can you give me some more info on the Cam Sprockets you used and where to buy them? (If you used them they must be good and they look good as well) Many thanks, Freek

Dremel, flexible shaft and small grinding stone in addition to EYEPROTECTION.

I think there is a litle bit confusion about code 26 A and B. The CEL light in the car can only show if there is a Code 26 present, not if it is A or B. The EMH manual describes the different Codes 26 A and B. In the ECU there are 3 QDM drivers which each have their own Fault Output. The Software in the ECU checks if these 3 Fault signals are present and if there is a QDM fault it will set a bit. However only two bits are used for 3 possible QDM Faults. One bit is used for the Fault of one QDM, when one of the other two (or both) is (are) Faulty then the other bit is set. The Tech1, Freescan and Espritmon can read the above bits and therefore display a Code 26A or 26B Fault. There is one small error in Freescan it will display the right Code (A or B) but the descriptions are wrong. The description at 26A is the one for 26B and the other way around. Hope this clears some things up.

does anybody know the the size/dimensions (thread and length) of the bleed nipple on the Clutch Slave Cylinder of a 1990 SE. I would like to replace it with one from Stahlbus but prefer to have a replacement on hand before opening and removing the old one.

Hello, does anybody know the the size/dimensions (thread and length) of the bleed nipples used in a 1990 SE (TMC front and Bendix rear if I'm correct. I would like to replace them with ones from Stahlbus but prefer to have replacements on hand before opening and removing the old ones.

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EModifications/stereo.html It is possible.

The oiltempsender is not connected to the ECU.

Instead of using the 1n4001 which is only rated for 1A use the 1N5401 which is rated for 3A

O-rings in my SE for sealing those plugs

An idea for bending "soft" pipe is to plug one end, fil the pipe completely with very fine sand and then plug the pipe on the other end. Used to work for bending pipes in the past for my model airplanes

Hi Mike, do you have any details / information about the tool for fitting / removing the locking ring of the fuelpump?

As you have hooked up the laptop to the ECU, you can read the PROM ID, which gives a (possible) clue of what chip / software is installed.

See the attached pdf for setting the cambelt (round teeth) tension by means frequency measurement. Cambelt Frequentie Lotus info.pdf

It is a big Job, Oilcoolers are in the way. (often ending up with new ones as the hose connections are completly seized onto the aluminium Oil coolers.). I modified the undertray so the coolers can remain in place next time (hopefully not). (picture shows only one side. other side is mirrored) Furthermore seized bolts and nuts etc. First make sure that your condensor is leaking before you commence with this job. If you need more pictures just give me a shout. (Search the forum, long time ago i made a topic of my AC renewal process)....................... Found it

Radiator pack / undertray fitting, can be done by one person, I used 4 threaded rods and some washers and nuts.

Sorry to hear that Mike, I hope there will be an oppertunity to get the car back in the near future

Any news Mike???

Something is missing on one injector. Only place it can go is into the inlet manifold. Check if the piece is still in the manifold fitting.