I'm converting my 504 to manual using a Getrag 265/6 that I found. I am starting to piece it all together, and I am onto the clutch side of things. I am probably going to try go for a concentric hydraulic clutch release bearing. Something like this: https://tiltonracing.com/product/1300-series-hydraulic-release-bearings-38mm/

I'm trying to work out the different dimensions and clutch finger types etc.

From the photos I can find, it seems as though the S1 and S2 centre plates are not compatible - they have a different spline pattern. So this clearly means that for the Getrag, I need to use the S2 clutch centre plate.

Question: Is the S2 centre plate compatible with S1 and S2 flywheel?

Then the next question is onto the clutch pressure plate. Can the S2 pressure plate only be used with S2 centre plate, and the same for S1? And what about the flywheel? The bolt and dimensions pattern look similar. I'm not sure about the pressure plate itself.

Finally, if an S2 flywheel and S2 clutch is needed, is the S2 flywheel compatible with the S1 907?

4 hours ago, makepeace said:https://tiltonracing.com/product/1300-series-hydraulic-release-bearings-38mm/

Finally, if an S2 flywheel and S2 clutch is needed, is the S2 flywheel compatible with the S1 907?

The parts manual suggests the flywheel is common between the S1 907 and S2 912 - part number is B907E6019W

cheers, Richard

Awesome, thanks for that Richard. So I guess then it's just the compatibility of S1 and S2 clutch components.

My clutch plate is like the second one - the smaller number of splines for the Getrag 'box.  The clutch finger type depends on which release bearing style you want to use.  How/where are you mounting the clutch master cylinder?  I'll be getting the flywheel back from being resurfaced on Monday - I'll take a photo.

Pete

Hi Pete, thanks for confirming.

The master cylinder and actuator is something that needs working out still. Will probably have to get a bracket of some sort to mount to the pedal box.

8 hours ago, makepeace said:

Hi Pete, thanks for confirming.

The master cylinder and actuator is something that needs working out still. Will probably have to get a bracket of some sort to mount to the pedal box.

If it's any help, this is the arrangement that was used by Spyder in their Donington conversion kit.

3 minutes ago, Denis247 said:

If it's any help, this is the arrangement that was used by Spyder in their Donington conversion kit.

and at the pedal .. (bit blurry but you can see how it connects to the pedal

Thanks Denis, very interesting. I now see the point, it probably won't fit under the dash without some trickery.

Or you could modify the bulkhead and use an Excel pedal box.

Pete

18 hours ago, makepeace said:

Thanks Denis, very interesting. I now see the point, it probably won't fit under the dash without some trickery.

If you go this route try to make the connection to the pedal a bit nearer the pivot, it'll be a bit longer travel but lighter operation.

Don't know if correct but I've read a credible source claiming makedly reduced pedal effort with change from clutch fork operation to concentric slave. Hope @makepeace will succeed in this and share his findings.

Cheers

Thanks for the suggestions Denis, definitely an important point.

I also read that, apparently it's like night and day.

I'll definitely share the process. I've learned a lot in the past couple of weeks on the black magic of gearbox conversion, I'll be happy to pass it on.

You could also consider a pull-type master cyl mounted to the pedal box.  You could modify the shape of the clutch pedal to make the installation more compact but maintain adequate throw.  All you'd have in the engine bay would be a remote reservoir.

Pete

 

If its any help, I converted my automatic 524 to a manual Getrag using the original bell housing, a manual 79 Eclat 521 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing. I had to make a modified pivot bolt for the release arm and that was it. I used the Eclat manual pedal box and standard clutch cable.

I did replace the nylon wheel with a stainless steel wheel to prevent cable breakage.

It is a heavy clutch but so far, no issues. (touch wood)

@black eclat do you mean you were able to use the auto bellhousing? If so that would be amazing. Half expecting to need to make an adaptor.