EBPV / Throttle jack disable

[CarlC]

Hi Guys,

I have had my EBPV wired open for some time, done by PNM. I have swapped the throttle jacking soleniod with the wate gate soleniod as I suspected it was faulty. I have removed the engine bay floor today and cleaned up the gearbox and any other visable parts of the engine. This was all done to remount a rattling heat sheild.

But before I put things backtogether Im tempted to remove the mass of little pressure pipes associated with the EBPV and the throttle jack. I would then move the EBPV and Throttle jack soleniods into that useless cavity between the engine bay and the lugauge compartment, although still electrically connected so ECU doesnt complain.

Just to tidy up a bit, is this safe ?

All comments welcome.

[Paul C]

Safe.

Correct to leave the solenoids (to avoid a CODE 26).

Remember to plug the vaccum line that feeds both of them,

or your vaccum pump will burn out trying to vaccum the entire

world...

I used one of the t's to block mine here:

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/clarkycat...066.jpg&.src=ph

[CarlC]

Safe.

Correct to leave the solenoids (to avoid a CODE 26).

Remember to plug the vaccum line that feeds both of them,

or your vaccum pump will burn out trying to vaccum the entire

world...

I used one of the t's to block mine here:

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/clarkycat...066.jpg&.src=ph

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Top job Paul . Thanks for the picture, you've just saved my vaccum pump too!

[Kato]

Paul,

You got a picture of where the pipe comes from! Would love to add it to the guide on LEW (and do it to LEW's Esprit). Much neater than the screw in the pipe I've used.

Email us at LEW, as I'll probably forget to check back here!

Edited August 29, 2005 by Kato

[Paul C]

Paul,

You got a picture of where the pipe comes from! Would love to add it to the guide on LEW (and do it to LEW's Esprit). Much neater than the screw in the pipe I've used.

Off out for the day now but will get on it later

If it helps, the vaccum feed to both ther TJ and EBPV solenoids (C & D in the

picture) can clearly be seen linking the two, also there is the little T piece i used

to blank it off! It comes into the box with the wiring loom.

[CarlC]

HELP!

Having been working on the car for two weeks without driving and now with the EBPV and TJ full disconnected but with the soleniods electrically connected the car appears to be in "Safe Mode" . I have very restricted power and virtually nothing over 4000 rpm.

The compartment picture you show Paul is nothing like mine. I suspect I must have the newer type wiring loom as my solenoids are all the other side actually in the engine bay. Instead I have a foam box with what I believe to be the air pump in it. I have done as suggested with this and sealed up the pipe that was supplying the solenoids.

Ill grap a picture for reference now.

There was a thin black pressure pipe coming off one of the solenoids running to the driver side ECU compartment then appears to head towards the front of the car above the drivers head. What is this for ?

[x6gas]

There was a thin black pressure pipe coming off one of the solenoids running to the driver side ECU compartment then appears to head towards the front of the car above the drivers head. What is this for ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sounds like the vacuum pipe for the heater flaps to me... IIRC, this runs down by the ECU, then along the back of the engine bay and into the passenger compartment above the passenger's head...

[CarlC]

Here is how my loom differs from yours and a picture of the engine with the removed TJ and EBPV.

[CarlC]

Sounds like the vacuum pipe for the heater flaps to me...  IIRC, this runs down by the ECU, then along the back of the engine bay and into the passenger compartment above the passenger's head...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I suspect then you I saying I need to have this line attached to the air pump. Is it possible then from this porblem that the ECU has detected this problem and put the car in safe mode ?

[superdavelotus]

Yuo need to block off your redundant vacuum pipes by putting a screw in it. At the moment you have a huge vacuum leak which affects the idle and advance of your engine.

Is your vacuum pump working still? This controls the ECU and heater flaps and should come on for a few seconds then go off.

If it's not then I have a new one somewhere.

[superdavelotus]

Have you looped the vacuum hose to a closed loop on your vacuum pump??? If so, you'll most likley break your pump!

The pump needs to connect to the heater flaps/ECU. This is why your getting safe mode because the ECU hasn't got a feed.

Iam off to a christening later. This evening I may be able to pop over. Will have to double check with the missus though. My mobile is 0771 775 0453.

[CarlC]

Yuo need to block off your redundant vacuum pipes by putting a screw in it. At the moment you have a huge vacuum leak which affects the idle and advance of your engine.

Is your vacuum pump working still? This controls the ECU and heater flaps and should come on for a few seconds then go off.

If it's not then I have a new one somewhere.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Dave!

Nice to hear from you. The north meet really appears to be taking off !

I thought the unit in the foam box was the vacuum pump?

[CarlC]

Have you looped the vacuum hose to a closed loop on your vacuum pump??? If so, you'll most likley break your pump!

The pump needs to connect to the heater flaps/ECU. This is why your getting safe mode because the ECU hasn't got a feed.

Iam off to a christening later. This evening I may be able to pop over. Will have to double check with the missus though. My mobile is 0771 775 0453.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Dave. I've only had a couple of very short runs with this setup. Ill reconnect the vacuum pump to the pipe running into the passenger cabin. See if that helps any.

Thanks for the tips.

[CarlC]

I now have the thin black pressure pipe that come from the passenger cabin going directly to the vacuum pump. But this has made no difference. Either thats not the answer of the pumps now knacked as you suggest Dave.

Can I test the pump some how ?

[lrg_machine]

Carl

The pump should run with just the ignition on, so remove the main pipe to the pump, turn on the ignition, then stick you finger over the outlet. If the pump pulls a vacuum then you'll feel it sucking your finger, after the vacuum is created the pump should stop automatically, and only restart when the vacuum is let off.

[CarlC]

Carl

The pump should run with just the ignition on, so remove the main pipe to the pump, turn on the ignition, then stick you finger over the outlet. If the pump pulls a vacuum then you'll feel it sucking your finger, after the vacuum is created the pump should stop automatically, and only restart when the vacuum is let off.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thnks for the info.

I've just tried that and the vacuum pump appears to do bugger all.

When you said "remove tha main pipe" - did you mean the one that loops back from the vacuum pump back into itself. Shown in this example being the pipe far left or the one that actually leave the vacuum pump to feed the EBPV, TJ and other stuff ?

This is also a larger stubby white pipe just below this EBPV, TJ outlet pipe.

example.bmp

[lrg_machine]

Carl

The best way to test for leaks is to start from basics so, remove the main pipe on the pump so that all you have is the pump itself, then connect each section blocking the ends along the way, you'll soon find which connection is letting air back ito the system.

Although if you say the pump does nothing anyway then I suspect you have a knackered pump you, should be able to hear it runing ar at least feel it vibrate when it's working.

[CarlC]

Carl

The best way to test for leaks is to start from basics so, remove the main pipe on the pump so that all you have is the pump itself, then connect each section blocking the ends along the way, you'll soon find which connection is letting air back ito the system.

Although if you say the pump does nothing anyway then I suspect you have a knackered pump you, should be able to hear it runing ar at least feel it vibrate when it's working.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Jez, Thats exactly what I thought, its does nothing, no vibration, no noise.

Ill text Dave apparently he has a spare for some reason.

Thanks for all the help.

[docf]

Hi all just read this thread and I am about to do the same thing in my car.. one thing I noticed was people mention that there is a vac line from the pump to the ecu??? this doesn't appear to be correct since I dont see any such connection in my car. As far as I can tell the vac pump feeds only 3 things,: the heater flap, the ebpv and the tj. I looked through the service manual and dont see any connection between the vac pump and the ecu.. as a matter of fact I cant see any point where the vac circuit from the electric pump crosses paths anything that is connected to manifold pressure.

[CarlC]

Hi all just read this thread and I am about to do the same thing in my car.. one thing I noticed was people mention that there is a vac line from the pump to the ecu??? this doesn't appear to be correct since I dont see any such connection in my car.  As far as I can tell the vac pump feeds only 3 things,: the heater flap, the ebpv and the tj.  I looked through the service manual and dont see any connection between the vac pump and the ecu.. as a matter of fact I cant see any point where the vac circuit from the electric pump crosses paths anything that is connected to manifold pressure.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If the vacuum line does connect to the ECU it must be at the front end of the car and routed back becuase the only vacuum line left after disconnecting the TJ and EBPV runs from the engine bay into the ECU compartment then stright out into the passenger cabin toward the front of the car.

I would strongly recommend if you still want to this you procced with with alot of caution as I have almost certainly knacked my vacuum pump. I have a new one on route from Dave, so lucky I wont be out of action for long. But basically it took nearly nothing to knacker my origonal one up. It must have happened while I had it piped into its self but I am currently at a loss as to why this would actually knacker the pump.

My advice for now is just hang fire until there is a deffinitive answer. Dave who is always at PNM has said that piping the pump into itself will knacker it up. Further more becuase no vacuum is being supplied to the heater flaps the car ends up in safe mode and is nearly undrivable.

[docf]

If the vacuum line does connect to the ECU it must be at the front end of the car and routed back becuase the only vacuum line left after disconnecting the TJ and EBPV runs from the engine bay into the ECU compartment then stright out into the passenger cabin toward the front of the car.

I would strongly recommend if you still want to this you procced with with alot of caution as I have almost certainly knacked my vacuum pump.  I have a new one on route from Dave, so lucky I wont be out of action for long. But basically it took nearly nothing to knacker my origonal one up. It must have happened while I had it piped into its self but I am currently at a loss as to why this would actually knacker the pump.

My advice for now is just hang fire until there is a deffinitive answer. Dave who is always at PNM has said that piping the pump into itself will knacker it up. Further more becuase no vacuum is being supplied to the heater flaps the car ends up in safe mode and is nearly undrivable. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ok in my case, the line that goes to the front was cut and sealed off by the previous owner. As for the heater flap, I replaced the vac mechanism with a simple $12 solenoid last year so thats not an issue. Again looking at my car (US spec 95 S4) the output from the electric vac pump has no connection with anything besides the hvac, ebpv and tj. Also the heater flaps have no connection to the ecu nor can they trigger any faults in the ecu to cause it to go into safe mode. My guess is that you knocked something else loose while you were in there and the first thing I would check is the hard plastic line that goes from the back of the manifold to the boost transducer in the quarter panel. I wont have any more info on my car until i get the turbo back next week and put it all back together.

[CarlC]

Ok in my case, the line that goes to the front was cut and sealed off by the previous owner.  As for the heater flap, I replaced the vac mechanism with a simple $12 solenoid last year so thats not an issue.  Again looking at my car (US spec 95 S4) the output from the electric vac pump has no connection with anything besides the hvac, ebpv and tj.  Also the heater flaps have no connection to the ecu. . . .

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My 94 S4 doesnt have a boost transducer and didnt have a boost gauge until I fitted one recently. But I do share you thoughts about this and the fact that the heater flaps shouldnt be able to generate an error code. I have used freescan last night and no errors are reported at all but the car still appears to run in 'Safe mode'. As you suggest I suspected that there must be something else wrong so I will check the other connections tonight. The onloy other thing I can think is that if my Vac pump is really dead then maybe the ECU is detecting this. As I have my new pump now from dave I should be able to better verify what is happening.

Fingers crossed! the new pump sorts it.

[CarlC]

Ok, My vacuum pump is sorted! Sad to say I had failed to check the obvious and it turned out that the fuse had blown! - switched out the fuse and my origonal pump is making all the right noises.

So took the car out for a quick run and its no better !!!!!

No feel of boost, although boost gauge is showing low boost - minimal acceleration and nothing over 4000 rpm! I have used free scan and no errors are being reported. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Paul C]

I've been quiet on this because your photo of the engine box on the S4

and the routing of the vaccum pipes is 100% different to the SE ones, so

i figured S4 people would be more help in the end!

Here's one thing (i think) no-one has asked yet...

Is the EBPV securely wired open?

As you now have no line to it, then it will naturaly be sprung shut.

If this is the case, then the blocked exhaust system would i guess

leave the car somewhat wanting. worth bringing up if only to rule it

out....

[CarlC]

Is the EBPV securely wired open?

As you now have no line to it, then it will naturaly be sprung shut.

If this is the case, then the blocked exhaust system would i guess

leave the car somewhat wanting. worth bringing up if only to rule it

out....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Paul,

Thanks for your suggestion. I will double check this now. It was wired open by PNM long before I remove the pipes. But its deffinetly worth a double check.