No Heat

[jimmybondi]

I cannot get the interior warmed up!

fans and a/c are working.

When I set to the 'defrost' setting, I might get some 'little bit warmer then ambient' air from the windscreen vents. We had some snow here 2 days ago, so I would like to fix it.

Can anybody give me a hint where to start?

[Jussi]

I have same kind of situation, no heat

And the whole air con compressor is missing previous owner must have taken it out (not working or something). Is this reliable shop (and prize reasonable) to get air con compressor http://www.toyz-in-the-hood.co.uk/11.html

Under the glovebox is hoses which may destroyed (or wrinkled) and what about the heater's knob, is it possible to "jamm"?

[jimmybondi]

I have same kind of situation, no heat 

And the whole air con compressor is missing  previous owner must have taken it out (not working or something). Is this reliable shop (and prize reasonable) to get air con compressor http://www.toyz-in-the-hood.co.uk/11.html

Under the glovebox is hoses which may destroyed (or wrinkled) and what about the heater's knob, is it possible to "jamm"?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Arrrgggh, in your region it is even worse! So I will not complain anymore

But Finnish guys are tough, at least the ones that I know.

When I bought mine, the compressor was also missing. I suppose it went south and due to cost reasons the DPO took it out.

Did cost me a fortune to replace the compressor.

No the hoses look ok and the knobs do activate the rods and the valves (as far as I can see). Strangely enough, when I set the heater knob to the full right (cold air) position, it will stop with a click sound in the warm position. Anyway, if I can find the time, I will check if the vacuum system is still pressurized.

[WayneB]

Sorry you guys are freezing your asses off There is a vacuum line that runs from the rear of the car to the front ,on the drivers side on your l.h.d. Esprits.(runs from on top of the plywood fuel tank panel (l/h) over the top of the roof rail, down the A pillar , then behind the dash to the heater controls. This line is easyly dislodged if you have fitted or removed the radio/cassette player. Mine had been pulled off at both ends, and as the service notes dont show its routing was a b@st@rd to find! A symtom of this being disconnected is also the brake warning lamp will be reluctant to go out. Hope this will fix your prob. ..........Wayne83Turbo

Edited April 11, 2005 by WayneB

[Jussi]

Thanks Wayne, we will check it with your instructions when I take the car out of the garage. Now it's under +5celsius and raining, so not good weather to drive esprit without heater

Btw. what's your opinion about that toyz-in-the-hood shop's air con compressor, does it even fit in Giugiaro?

[WayneB]

Thanks Wayne, we will check it with your instructions when I take the car out of the garage. Now it's under +5celsius and raining, so not good weather to drive esprit without heater 

Btw. what's your opinion about that toyz-in-the-hood shop's air con compressor, does it even fit in Giugiaro?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The Esprits A/C compressor was manufactured by Sanden in the U.S. Yes the one you found looks like the right one. I dont know anything about this parts source however(maybe someone helse on forum has had dealings with them) Hopefully, the brackets for the compressor are still on your car(there is also an Idler pulley)The A/C compressor was also missing on my car. Luckily the last owner had left the brackets and hoses intact. Besides having to get a compressor, I fabricated a new idler assembly from scratch using a Chev Astro Van pulley, and found a belt by trail and error. My compressor came off a late 80s Jeep Cherokee in an auto wreckers(Sanden, same as Lotus, pd.$15!) Mine was re-charged with R-12(no longer legal) which my A/C guy recycles from other jobs. If your A/C man wont do this, you will have to convert to R-134 gas( all new seals in A/C system required) this is a job big in labour! Over here it seems if you take your car in with busted A/C you will have to pay a minimum of $1000 to get it fixed. This is probably the reason it has been removed on alot of Esprits! Wayne 83 Turbo

[Jussi]

Hmm. that Cherokee compressor sounds interesting. We have to check if we found that kind, it would be much cheaper. And my mechanic loves to do some impossible tasks to my cars

As to this A/C filling, my dad has a company which also repair cars A/C (mostly fill). So no cost to fill it In fact the first thing my dad checked was the A/C when he saw the car

[jimmybondi]

...A symtom of this being disconnected is also the brake warning lamp will be reluctant to go out.  Hope this will fix your prob. ..........Wayne83Turbo

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Huh?

Could you explain to us how the vacuum system is linked to the brake warning light? Do I miss something?

Anyway, Thanks for your help.

[Jussi]

I think (or hope) that there are some wires near the vacuum-system. And they may loose if vacuum-system is out of order. But tell us Wayne is this true

[WayneB]

On the Turbo Esprit, the vacuum for the brake servo and the A/C control system is supplied by an vacuum pump driven off the engine. If the A.C.U. vacuum line has become dislodged there will be a leak in the system, causing the brake warning lamp to stay on or with a small leak only go out when engine R.P.M. increases to compensate. Why a vacuum pump? Its a Turbo engine hence only pressure in intake tract when under boost Hope you found this enlightening Wayne 83 Turbo

[jimmybondi]

Thanks for the info Wayne.

I have taken off the plenum chamber yesterday. The flaps for fresh / circulating air do not not move according to the heater knobs. Yes, the engine was running when I tried it.

Does anybody have a clue where to look first, as the workshop manual is not really helpful here.

[WayneB]

Thanks for the info Wayne.

I have taken off the plenum chamber yesterday. The flaps for fresh / circulating air do not not move according to the heater knobs. Yes, the engine was running when I tried it.

Does anybody have a clue where to look first, as the workshop manual is not really helpful here.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Jimmy ,did you check vacuum was present at main ACU line? (the one that runs from rear of car to control panel) If there is vacuum there either the control switch is bad or one or the other vacuum flap actuators is leaking or the small vacuum lines that supply them from the swich has become dislodged or cracked. Im still betting the main ACU line has become detached from the temp control switch(maybe when installing a stereo?) Wayne One more thing, have you have checked the heater matrix is recieving coolant and is getting hot? The cable operated vave might be siezed/ disconnected from the control cable or the heater coolant lines might be airlocked and need the air bleeding out of them.

Edited April 26, 2005 by WayneB

[Paul C]

Am reading this with intent. My SE probably has one or all of these symtoms.

Have thought many times about checking the lines and the cable operated valve,

but i always think 'some other time' and go for a drive instead. Thats the trouble

with jobs that do not affect running i guess....

Am interested to read how you get on, and any pics of the relevent pipes/cables?

[jimmybondi]

Jimmy ,did you check vacuum was present at main ACU line? (the one that runs from rear of car to control panel) If there is vacuum there either the control switch is bad or one or the other vacuum flap actuators is leaking or the small vacuum lines that supply them from the swich has become dislodged or cracked. Im still betting the main ACU line has become detached from the temp control  switch(maybe when installing a stereo?) Wayne One more thing, have you have checked the heater matrix is recieving coolant and is getting hot? The cable operated vave might be siezed/ disconnected from the control cable or the heater coolant lines might be airlocked and need the air bleeding out of them.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the input.

No, I have not checked the main line, yet.

As PaulC mentioned, if it does not affect driving, it is not top priority on my list.

But as I'd like to drive my lady around from time to time, full- functional heating is mandatory...

[WayneB]

Jimmy/Paul I agree ,laying on your back contorted up, working under the dash of an Esprit is not the most pleasant of jobs! Jimmy get round problem by buying your lady an expensive fur coat.......Paul emigrate to Florida U.S.A. its hot there, you wont need a heater Wayne

[jimmybondi]

Jimmy/Paul I agree ,laying on your back contorted up, working under the dash of an Esprit is not the most pleasant of jobs!   Jimmy get round problem by buying your lady an expensive fur coat.......Paul emigrate to Florida U.S.A. its hot there, you wont need a heater   Wayne

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Err Paul, would you buy your wife the fur coat? I will then move to Florida or better: California

[Paul C]

..Paul emigrate to Florida U.S.A. its hot there, you wont need a heater   Wayne

Is not for me, it's for Vic

I loathe the heat, any heat, and wear T shirts all year round.

Earlier today it was too hot for my liking and it's only rainy april,

thats why i have a carbon fibre roof panel instead of that stupid

glass grill they whacked on there.

Air con is also knacked. I know what the problem and what needs

sorting, but have no interest in doing so as i never use it on my other

cars because in the summer i get to where i was heading well chilled,

get out of the car and faint in the sudden heat.

too much of a shock...

[jimmybondi]

I now have found the time to take off the r/h cover in the engine compartment and to have a look at the vacuum reservoir. The hoses from and to the reservoir and the reservoir itself look ok, so how can I tell if the system is working?

Is there somerwhere a how-to guide in order to check the heater system??

Any advise is very welcome.

[WayneB]

Jimmy, you need to check if you have vacuum present when the engine is running. If you havent got a gauge(cheap to buy) pull the pipe off and put your thumb over the end.You should feel slight suction on it as you pull it away. Repeat this process on the pipe at various locations until you find where it is leaking/unnatached. There are some heater schematics in the service notes.

[jimmybondi]

Jimmy, you need to check if you have vacuum present when the engine is running. If you havent got a gauge(cheap to buy) pull the pipe off and put your thumb over the end.You should feel slight suction on it as you pull it away. Repeat this process on the pipe at various locations until you find where it is leaking/unnatached. There are some heater schematics in the service notes.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Wayne.

I will check it out.

[pas]

Am also reading this within 'intent'. I'm a newby to this site, but have owned an S3 for 10 years. I have had this 'no-heat' problem off an on for a while.

Once the vacuum tube had indeed become dislodged under the left hand wing of the engine bay, where it meets the larger vacuum tube from the rear of the cylinder head.

On another occasion I found that as the engine became hot, it suddenly connected and I received lots of heat from that time onwards. I took this to mean a clogged vacuum pipe that desolidified.

Now I have the problem once more and intend to look under the dash as mentioned above, to find the connection at the heater itself. Does anyone have any photos or more information on exactly where to find this?

eg: left or right hand foot-well?

[WayneB]

pas, pull the radio out its all behind there.

[jimmybondi]

Am also reading this within 'intent'.  I'm a newby to this site, but have owned an S3 for 10 years.  I have had this 'no-heat' problem off an on for a while. 

Once the vacuum tube had indeed become dislodged under the left hand wing of the engine bay, where it meets the larger vacuum tube from the rear of the cylinder head. 

On another occasion I found that as the engine became hot, it suddenly connected and I received lots of heat from that time onwards.  I took this to mean a clogged vacuum pipe that desolidified.

Now I have the problem once more and intend to look under the dash as mentioned above, to find the connection at the heater itself.  Does anyone have any photos or more information on exactly where to find this? 

eg: left or right hand foot-well?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You mean: All I have to do is to overheat the engine?

I am doibng it constantly!

BTW, what is the safe max. temp for our 900 engines?

[GSimpson]

At what point did Lotus change from using the cable operated heater to the Vacuum operated one.

My car uses cable operated mechanism.

As an input my heater didn't work simply because the core was blocked with shit. The heater hoses were cold indicating no flow. There is no valve and temp controlled by directing airflow. A blocked heater also affects the carbs as there is no flow through the manifold either.

[jimmybondi]

-OFF

Daniel:

"Mr. Myagi, Mr. Myagi, are you in there?"

-FADE IN - MYAGI'S FLAT

MYAGI IS SITTING ON THE FLOOR OF HIS ROOM IN THE PERFECT 'LOTUS POSITION' WITH HIS HANDS FOLDED IN HIS LAP - NOT ANSWERING. HE DOES NOT EVEN TURNING AROUND AS DANIEL ENTERS THE SCENE.

CLOSE-UP ON DANIELS FACE

Daniel:

"Mr. Myagi, what are you doin' there on the floor?

MYAGI TURNS TO DANIEL

"Daniel-san! Ever heard of self-healing power??"

DANIEL LOOKS STARTLED

Daniel:

"Is this some kind of your KARA-TE stuff??"

Myagi:

"When I drove my Esprit this morning, Daniel-san. Heat coming out of windscreen vent..."

DANIEL WAS EVEN MORE PUZZLED

Daniel:

"I really dunno what your're talkin'..."

Myagi:

"Heat never came out of vent for years! You don't understand?"

Daniel:

"Ahh! You mean your heater in your car is working again?"

MYAGI LOOKS STRAIGHT INTO DANIELS EYES, RAISING HIS HANDS TO THE AIR

Myagi:

"Hai - Daniel-san! Self-healing power!'

FADE-OFF

Edited June 9, 2005 by jimmybondi