Alex's v8 re-build thread warning pic whore inside >:)

[Alex Carter]

more done today.

so first thing these dirty gear box mounts

removed shot blasted cleaned and painted

then onto the bottom of the tanks refitting the joiner pipes and jubly clips

spotted this rusty old pump underneath so cleaned the holder and freshened up the carrier

then onto the drivers side tank refit

fuel filter on way

[rizla603104]

looking good!

[Alex Carter]

so today i stripped all the bonder off of these for sending off to be stripped of all the crap and galvanised

then this will be a marmite mod some love some hate it .

then added the new silly cones

[Günter]

the 'dirty old pump' ..is the water recirculation pump, it should run after a hot-cycle ..so after a spirited run with an overheated engine and a 'shutoff-temperature' of around 115-120°C , along with the fans kicking in and the ignition key in your pocket.

 

 

..by the way, you can paint single parts and let the engine itself dirty, no problem ..but inspect all the earth straps there going to the tanks each side and to the chassis -this is an importand point for electric stability

 

.. is it the camera flashlight, or are there contact problems, splited wires and oxids build up inbetween the contact areas to the chassis/tank surface ??

Edited March 19, 2013 by Günter

[Alex Carter]

the earth straps have had it gunter they are being replaced

[Alex Carter]

what a week waiting on parts but a little progress .

thought id make a subtle difference in detail

then fitted the clear indicators

and fitted the front end back on

then the problems started i bought a new spoiler from lotus as mine was bent scratched and damaged

first time i take it out the box to try it and this

the right side is black and the left side is blue ish black and looks terrible

so now left waiting for lotus to be in touch and continiue waiting for ordered parts .

exhaust de cats have been way to long now getting impatient

[Günter]

frontend fitted only with the original mounting brakets ..as it looks ?

[jammy-pop]

Alex,

 

It is quite funny that I am looking at your pictures and most of them are exactly the same as mine! Should start putting mine back together on Thursday but still waiting for a few bits.

 

Where did you get the clear indicator lenses from? They look really nice.

 

Cheers,

 

Steve.

[Günter]

a possible sales point:

http://espritperformance.com/espritperformance/

[Alex Carter]

yes jammy chop chop get em finished the indicators came from esprit engineering in sp5 3rb i think

thanks bibs it took a while but happy with the results

[Alex Carter]

sorry not sure where i got that from > ill get my coat

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZORST

[jammy-pop]

Looking goood!

 

Think I might join the engine and transmission before I put it back in?

 

Steve.

[Alex Carter]

Do it Steve mine came out in one and will go back the same

[jammy-pop]

Alex,

Where is your engine wiring loom? There's bits of 'spaghetti' hanging off mine all over the place!

My engine is in now, minus the transmission, as I'm waiting for some star lock washers to arrive for the clutch pack. I think the two most awkward bits were trying to connect the PAS hose to the pump and connecting the Electrical connector to the AC pump!

Not even sure if I've run the PAS hose the route it came from, as it was rubbing on the aux drive belt first time I reconnected it. I ran it round the back of the belt in the end. This was the only thing I didn't have a picture of typically.

Cheers,

Steve.

[Alex Carter]

My loom is in the engine bay I disconnected from the engine and hung out the way on the drivers side I didnt think of doing it any other way because I wanted to check the loom .

Intersting you mention the star lock washers I found a few on the floor the plates didnt have any on them are they important what do they do as I saw them in the diagrams but didnt put them on and where do I get them from what size are they

[Alex Carter]

fun and games in the work shop stripped the box back off so i can replace these little washer pinch thingys for the clutch.

then started to refit my new filter and got some new rubber gromits for the fuel neck from sjs

the pics

the new rubber seals

the new filter

then started to seal the right hand panel

then the qtr trims were cleaned and refitted

then this is my friends it came down too .sorted some issues blummin italians

then last but not least my friend had never seen an oxy bomb so i made one for his entertainment excuse the childish laugh but he promptly soiled himself behind the camera and that made me laugh more

[Simon350S]

Awesome!

Glad I've not had any of that in my garage when Bibs has been over for a BBQ party!

[Alex Carter]

started the day on a backfoot more dismantling for painting purposes but did these

spent a while trying to figure out how to treat and finish these so they didnt rust again.

then thought sod it ill make some new ones out of metal that wont rust. and its a lot lighter than the originals

then ran out of glue so halted progress

[Alex Carter]

more from the man cave bit of fab work first had to make the front grill stronger so it didnt collapse with air rushing at it

fitted

all looking good

then onto the side covers and under trays

then a few orders to steve at sj

these came in

then fitted the new water pipes

then got the pipes sorted with the new sensors

looking good

then shot blasted the old mounts and a lick of silver

fitted and looks the nuts cant wait to ear it

[Günter]

Frontend still hanging off ?

 

..thought you would do there the same improvements as we have done with our cars

-you can add more brackets there, next to the frontlight pods (preverable stainless ones)

..so that the flexible bumber is not in such a bad shape there and fits to the body in the right way

 

..on the position of the front indicator you can do it too, there is space for that ..to hold the valance onto the bumper more precice

[Alex Carter]

Oh gunter ..................

[Alex Carter]

so guess what ive been playing with today

there was me thinking it was just as easy to lock everything up and slide on new belts

ohhh noo

so after reading manuals and making tools

didnt go to plan so more dismantling and starting from scratch just to be sure .

the sarga continues

[Günter]

it is not hard, you are on a good way as it looks (see how some of us have done this so far )

 

-just turn it onto the *start* position, with old belts on (white mark pointing to the crankshaft lock pin gap/ writing 10°BTDC notable, cardboard 'timing indicator' pointing onto 10°BTDC)

 

..if you confirm that the start position fits (via timing indicator on crankshaft pulley & all four camshaft lock pins in place) undo the old belts, but don't turn anything there around on the cams (lock them in place as good as you can !!)   

 

-fit on new belts, tightem them up as required for a 'firm' rotation of the belt-drive system there ..

undo the locking pins on cams and crank..

 

turn the crank until you see that you now have the 'frequency-position' for first bank on your 'crank-pulley indicator' pointing there  ..

 

measure belt-frequency for the first bank with your smartphone/pda

 

..thighten/loosen the small belt pulley wheel as you need, if good thighten up the screw there for the small pully-wheel     

 

..turn the crank a little more around, up to the position where the pointer shows that you are right there for second engine-bank 

 

.. measure the belt frequency for the second belt too   ..thightem the second screw on the small belt-pulley  (I have used thread lock glue there all around for all pulleys, pulley-wheels)

 

#########

 

no the *run test* to verify that there are no interferences/blockage and the belts have settled:

 

..turn the crankshaft around by hand for two turns, and up to the point for *start* again (10°BTDC writing on the crankshaft-pulley & indicated by the white marking on the crankshaft pulley  -corresponding with 'timing indicator' pointing on your cardboard dial as that should still be attached there on the front pully with chewing gum/douple stick tape onto the crankshaft.  

 

Now insert all the four camshaft pins again to see that all four fit into the camshaft holes -without to much imperfection or resistance (note that by factory setup two different pin sizes exist -means slight tolerances  !)

 

..if this is good, undo the pins again, and turn the crankshaft onto the position for 'frequency test' of the fist engine-bank again, measure frequency -if this is still withing given tolerance you are fine there  --turn the crank around to the position of the next engine bank, measure there  ...again if fine you are ready, if out of speification adjust as required   ..

 

 

..this process just needs some patience and 'feeling'  -but it can be done with minimum equippement !

 

Hope everyone (and especialy you Alex) understands this *step by step* description as good as it needs

++++

by the way -was there cooling water running between RH head & block  (see rusty marks on the headgasket area in front) 

 

..or was this just a leak from the thermostat-takeoff housing ??

Edited April 8, 2013 by Günter

[Alex Carter]

the rusty water is from somewhere i'm not losing water and i don't know if it was the thermostat the path would suggest that but ill do some more inspection to confirm that for you .

no the job isn't hard it just doesn't make sense .using the tools the cams were locked and on fitting the new belts the right hand belt fitted snug but the left hand seemed to be 1 tooth out .so id noticed that the cam holes are elongated and that after a lot of head scratching we noticed the cams still moved a bit even with the locking pin in . so after this it became obvious that it wasn't just a lock and replace type job so i've removed the rockers and following the book to the letter of the law so i do it right rather than using drills and wooden broom handles i have the lotus pins and a lotus tech coming to check it all after i've had a go . old belts are off so no chance of rotating anything just yet

[Günter]

Alex, you don't need to confirm 'for me'

 

..it is your car and your effort that you have put in there so far for a specific aim, so think you want to enjoy the car and don't want to see problems there later on, after the car is back on the road ..right ? 

 

 

If you notice that the manual says that two types of pins exist, it should be obvios why there is still some 'movement' ..as said there are tolerances given !    ..and of course, if you are handy even a broom stick, hard-plastic or aluminium tube with a slot cut into it shaped to the right dimension -this can lock the crank-pulley, so I dont see why you think that you  (other guys) are not able to do it this way  ..it's a simple matter of your own will and confidence in instructions given by a man you don't like   (I see you indications there between the lines ..)

 

..mention that with a given crank position one engine bank is closer to a specific 'cam cycle' than the other, therefore you will find one engine bank/cam arrangement under light resistance -that is why there is the *fail safe* note given (with picture) in the workshop-book

-all you need is to read and dont be bullish  ..right

 

 

..for a perfect finish you would clearly need to readjust the cam-wheels ..as this is a specific construction detail, all wheels there are identical and not indexed (no pins in the wheels locking them onto the cams !!)

 

So measure what type of camshaft pins you have got, use the bigger ones to minimise the tolerances, this gives the best point to start if you realy have to adjust some ° on the cam-wheels

Edited April 9, 2013 by Günter