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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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Fabian, I've got mine off the car and had a replacement made up by a local carpenter.

 

I'll take some measurements for you this week

Vin Taylor

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In your picture the mechanism held by the clip for the push rod is reversed. It may still work like this have not tried it, but have swapped parts over on mine to match the original. Removed the threads from the old lock and fitted them to the new.

 

I asked Steve about this, here is the response:

 

"I have never seen that before. Yes, I would say you should flip the linkage over."

 

Was this very difficult to do? You would have to drill out that rivet holding the linkage, right?

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Will let you know if it works when I have rebuilt the doors. Bogged down will trim scraping, seems to be taking ages to remove call glue. Now have the problem of trying to get my 1978 Philips radio working also!

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This is the radio, havnt tried it but apparently it's not working. Does anyone have the circuit diagram so I can repair it? Also what wattage and impedance are the speakers? I was thinking of 5 watt 4 or 8 Ohm?Thought it would say so on the unit but doesn't.post-17315-0-32594300-1431359729.jpgpost-17315-0-53570100-1431359757.jpg if anyone can point out the common faults on this unit that would be a great help.

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thanks Fabian

 

any chance you could grab a shot where the cable comes out of the body ? After it passes through the rear interior bulkhead?

Vin Taylor

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Thanks.. I think I've found the original grommets and they're in good shape.

 

So the cables don't pass into the engine bay right?  Just under the RHS fuel tank, under the square engine bay bracket and out through the relevant holes where the grommets are used.

 

Did you buy replacement P clips?

Vin Taylor

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Hopes this helps and saves time and money. Here's a list of the screws bolts etc. that make up the door.

Hinge bolt 1/2 inch UNF, 1/2 inch nut

Countersunk Allen bolts in door lock M6, 25mm and 35 mm long.

Penny washers for door frame M8 hole size

Bolts in end of door beam. M8 x 20 mm

Interior handles, 3 holed plate. 3/16 UNF PanPozi

Bolts thru door frame edge, M5.

Hinge bolts thru top of beam M12.

Have welded 1/2 UNF bolt to hinge. Need to powder coat and wait for some time off to reassemble.post-17315-0-26147500-1431616518.jpgpost-17315-0-75814100-1431616540.jpg

I never took the door lock countersunk bolts off. Does anyone know if they are secured on the inside of the steel plate by lock nuts. One bolt only appears to screw into the steel plate?

post-17315-0-04848100-1431616746.jpg

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powder coated frame.post-17315-0-06436300-1431617192.jpgframe back from powder coat.post-17315-0-68810800-1431617233.jpg

Just need to put it all back together, but as always it's taken a while to get the right nuts and bolts together!

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Door lock countersunk bolts are retained by nylock nuts on the inside of the plate, with the exception of one of them which goes straight into a tapped hole in the plate.

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These are what the door shims look like and are available from S and J. I had none and so bought a few to aid door fixing. The pivot bars for the sun visors also came from S and J, as did the special countersunk rivets for the door waistline trim carrier. Managed to get interior door handles from ebay, they are MGB.post-17315-0-88643200-1431802053.jpgpost-17315-0-72670300-1431802077.jpgpost-17315-0-04537000-1431802094.jpg

Look forward to really getting on with this over the next few months, hopefully I will make a " miniscule" bit of progress!

For the moment am stuck regarding the wooden piece that fits at the top of the windscreen under the roof to hold the sun visor trim. It's missing on the car and I've never seen it before? If anyone has a picture that would really help?

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Have started putting the doors back together. Also finished the last part of the cooling fan circuit, the Kenlowe thermostat. Managed to squeeze it into the space near the left headlight motor. Repositioned all the relays under the left side of the front to make room and keep it wire free.post-17315-0-99077200-1432045333.jpgpost-17315-0-24774900-1432045353.jpgpost-17315-0-94608700-1432045379.jpgpost-17315-0-04421400-1432045423.jpg

post-17315-0-29207000-1432045405.jpg

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Can confirm the black new door handles will not work as supplied. They are assembled back to front which results in the lock push rod fouling on the door lock bracket and the unlock action is reversed. Swapping over part of the lock from the original has solved the problem.post-17315-0-84434000-1432055704.jpgpost-17315-0-22451600-1432055730.jpg

The Allen head screws that go into the lock are not all the same length! The lock will not work unless one shorter Allen head screw is used. It must be flush with the back plate. This is because the screw is directly under the push rod and if not flush will foul the mechanism.There is only one tapping in the plate where the shorter screw fits. The screw size is 1/4 inch UNF, if you wish to renew the bolt. The picture above shows the assembly. The longer screws pass thru the plate and are secured with Nyloc nuts (thanks Jon for pointing this out). All bolts on this car are UNF, or metric. BSF is only used on the fuel pump.

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