I have found this problem to be getting steadily worse over the last few weeks.I have mentioned it on another topic on this forum,and I did get a reply, so thankyou but I must take  it a little further

The car seems to not want to go into reverse at all with the engine running,also first does grind sometimes and sometimes not go in, also second can need a little extra effort.Iam thinking this is a clutch issue as they are all fine with the engine off.The car had a new clutch just before I bought it but still has the red hose from master to slave.Could this be a simple problem with air in the system along with the red hose issue.

Also the attached photo shows the lever arrangement ,is there supposed to be a certain gap between the reverse inhibitor block and the plastic bush on the lever shaft.It does clear the block when I lift up to put it into reverse but seems very sloppy when in neutral.Also the two threaded holes on the bottom plate ,what are they for?

The reverse problem is there all the time, hot or cold. The 1st and 2nd problem worse when warm.any advice much appreciated.

You indicate the reverse is an issue when the engine is running, I assume it's OK when the engine isn't running.

That, combined with the grinding of gears when changing means the clutch isn't fully disengaging. That would be hydraulics failing (fluid low, fluid old, seals failing, red pipe failing) or simply it wasn't set to spec but assuming it's not a new clutch, try replacing the fluid, look for leaks and then investigate deeper if that hasn't helped.

I would also be looking to get rid of the red hose and fit solid piping.

Braided, not solid! 

 

Very common Esprit problem and very simple fix.

The problem is more likely the translator; check the bearings and the rod end joints for excessive play.

Why braidied specifically Bibs? My S4 has been changed before I got it and runs copper piping all the way from the master to the slave. I haven't had any issues with clutch operation?

I intend to change the pipe this week and for what  they cost the slave cylinder also, refill and bleed it.It will be up on my mates lift so I can have a good look at the translator and linkages as well. The way im going I will have replaced all the original parts in no time at all. At least its not costing in fuel while its up in the air,Lotus esprit,a project for life

Why braidied specifically 

 

Braided is easier to fit, how does the copper pipe connect to the cylinders (a picture perhaps)?

Have you noticed that it's easier to engage the troublesome gears if you roll the car forwards/backwards a centimeter or two when out driving?

 

If so, I'd say translator adjustment. A half turn of the rods can make a hell of a difference. Just make sure you're two people doing it - one in the car, one in the boot/underneath.

 

Also check how much thread is showing at the slave - is it 12,5 mm in accordance with the service notes?

Thank you gents.I will look at all suggestions inc translator adjustment and put up a picture of the end connections

Copper all the way from the master to slave cylinder might sound a good idea but how does it cope long term with flexing/twisting of the engine. Sooner or later it will weaken and leak.

I renovated the translator with new bearings and other bits and bobs, lubed it, adjusted the gearcables as per description, lubed the cables, changed the red hose (I don't believe in the "syndrome" in this case), and looked and measured the rod length. New fluid (DOT 4), changed the two oins underneath the outer gearshaft, and changed the nylon piece (cannot on your model), and adjusted the reverse inhibitor plate to have veeeery Little gap to the nylon bushing, when gearstick pushed over to select first. All is fine. And I can positively say that it was a real fight before.....

 

Also, look at the master and slave cylinders for leaks, carefully.

 

Cheers,

Jacques.

The part of my question about the reverse inhibitor plate and the position of the gear lever when pushed into first is somehow thyen relevant My lever rubs against the block, this cant be right then?

Copper all the way from the master to slave cylinder might sound a good idea but how does it cope long term with flexing/twisting of the engine. Sooner or later it will weaken and leak.

Mine is copper all,but the last 12 inches which is rubber flexi. That's enough to cope with the engine movement, It was done several years ago by a previous owner.

So long as there is a flexi where it leaves secure attachment of the body or chassis so it can flex en route to either master or slave it would be no different to a brake line running the body/chassis

The part of my question about the reverse inhibitor plate and the position of the gear lever when pushed into first is somehow then relevant, My lever rubs against the block, this cant be right then?

Any thoughts on this?

Also read somewhere on some old forum post,slave cylinder is landrover series 2-2A  part no- 266694 is this right?

If it is it'll be mentioned on here before so use the search mate.

Braided is easier to fit, how does the copper pipe connect to the cylinders (a picture perhaps)?

No, there should be a minimal distance of freeplay between the reverse inhibitor and the plastic thing on your gear lever.

Otherwise it will rub and partially make it difficult to select first and second.

Otherwise look at all the points above.

I'll take a braided hose any day, but that is just me. And the the one that I bought, but a propper one with stainless screw on fittings, so you can renovate it if need be. Also makes it much more easy to install it, and transfer the rubber protecots from the holses in the chassis.

 

On my model year, it says "marginal clearance. I made it 1mm, and the 2 locating pins on the lower outer part gearstck from lower bottom to upper edge on base plate on outer gearstick should be 31 mm. And the lifting height should be 11-13mm.

Again, that's on my type, and you will have to look into your type servicemanual, as it may be different.

 

I misse done locating pin, and this made it much more difficult, as the Whole outer stick would turn around, on an attempt to reverse.

I made ned stainless pins 2 tenths thicker than the standard 3mm diameter, to take up some slop.

 

My 1988 - 1992 descrobes it in section FE, page 8 - 11 and onwards, but the drawings on page 8 and 9 are pretty clear on the subject.

 

Cheers,

Jacques.

Thanks very much Jacques and everyone else who has contributed .I have ordered parts so should be at it soon,will keep posted on the outcome.

regards everyone.

hi Karl,

Most wellcome, but do remember to lube your cables with thin oil. A bicycle cable oiler may Work. If you take them off at the translator end, like Vanya described I think, you can let the oil passdown, while waiting for parts and save time

 

On the pics in the start of your thread, I don't see much light wheelbearing grease (ex.), and that will help too.

 

Cheers,

Jacques.

Thanks again,

Karl.

Hello all

 

Does anyone in the UK have a supplier for the rod ends for both the translator and also the cables and part numbers, (btw what sizes are they) as all I can seem to find are not of the studded kind (is they have a hole rather than a stud).

 

Secondly, can non studded ones be fitted, and just bolted up, or will this method not have enough clearance for the mechanism to work?

 

Thanks

Lotusbits bought up Espritism's stock up of translator rod ends, try them.

Ok, thanks

I've already got the translator bearings and just looking for the rose joints.  The non studded ones are so much cheaper, even with phosphor bronze bearings.  Has anyone tried them?