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splitting box from engine


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How do I split the box from the engine in the bay?

 

I have undone all the bell housing bolts, mounts pipes etc...  Do then lift the box over the mounts and then pull the box back?

 

 

Ta

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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When I did mine one thing I did was place a jack under the sump of the engine to keep it level while you break the bell housing away from the block. Good luck Chris.

Wayne

Suspension, brakes, chipped, chargecooler rad and pump,injectors,ignition coils and leads, BOV, highflow cat and zorst, Translator and tie rods, Head lights, LEDs to tail lights and interior,Polybushes to entire front end, Rad fans, rad grill, front end refurb with aluminium spreaderplates and galvanised bolts. Ram air, uprated fuel pump, silicone hoses through out, wheels refurbed and powder coated,much more, all maintenance.

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It should also drop out through one of the rear corners rather than trying to lift it over the tail  if that makes it easier. 

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  • Gold FFM

Jack the sump just enough to get a fag paper between the box and the mounts. Get in there and straddle it. Pull the box back to clear the input shaft from the clutch. Rotate the box a little to clear the bellhousing past the turbo. Box will come out through the gap at rear right, if the car is high enough.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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Thanks for the help. I'll jack it up as suggested. But I'll crane it out as I have a gravel drive and dragging through that will be something like the royal tournemount gun challenge.

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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It's not mega heavy mate. You will need a hand but if you're on you're own then defo a hoist.

Regards

Wayne

Suspension, brakes, chipped, chargecooler rad and pump,injectors,ignition coils and leads, BOV, highflow cat and zorst, Translator and tie rods, Head lights, LEDs to tail lights and interior,Polybushes to entire front end, Rad fans, rad grill, front end refurb with aluminium spreaderplates and galvanised bolts. Ram air, uprated fuel pump, silicone hoses through out, wheels refurbed and powder coated,much more, all maintenance.

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Don't forget to lift the fork

 

On the 4 cylinder cars with the Renault transmission, you don't have to lift or remove the fork to pull the gearbox back, like you do on the Esprit V8 with the pull type pressure plate.

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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What's happening with your thread Alex?

Suspension, brakes, chipped, chargecooler rad and pump,injectors,ignition coils and leads, BOV, highflow cat and zorst, Translator and tie rods, Head lights, LEDs to tail lights and interior,Polybushes to entire front end, Rad fans, rad grill, front end refurb with aluminium spreaderplates and galvanised bolts. Ram air, uprated fuel pump, silicone hoses through out, wheels refurbed and powder coated,much more, all maintenance.

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Chris, if you're craning it out I take it you removed that crossmember without any difficulty ? 

I thought it could only come out from the underneath, I didn't know taking it from above /craning out was an option ?? 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi all, just to jump in with something related to this thread, I noticed when I craned out my motor and gearbox I had to pick up some weight before I could take out the cross member, the chassis seemed to nip in about 10mm, is this normal ?

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Yep, I thought about this and installed the cross member while the car has sat with no engine and gearbox, I guess I will have to jack it up a little when I install the motor again. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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