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JPohja

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Hello from Finland,

I have just purchased Lotus Elite -74, chassis nro 0014C, lhd and originally sold to Sweden. Elite is in driving condition and done 200'000km as far as I know. Its been resprayed once and interior is partly done in 10 years. Some pics in here: http://harrasteet.1g.fi/kuvat/Lotus+Elite+503+1974/    

It's modell 503 with some rather interesting extras, reinforced roof and 180hp engine. Is it possible it may be first lhd made?

There is some bottom pics showing something from chassis, how does it look? Is it possible to change the steel frame if needed? I have restored some cars but glassfiber body and English cars are not familiar to me. Yet.

Hope you can help me thru slow restoration of this car, I just love the looks of it!

Jukka

 

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Welcome to the forum. Your Elite looks very nice and a lovely colour. It does look as though the body could do with lifting off and the running gear refreshing. It also looks like you have a getrag 'box and not a galvanised chassis so the engine upgrade you mention also came with a gearbox upgrade since series 2's had the galvanised chassis and getrag box. Good buy.

The engine has to come out to get the body off but I did both of these jobs in two days so not difficult. 

 

Kepp us all upto date with progress. I know many will be interested

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Looks good, doesn't look too bad to me at all on the underneath, as you drive and work your way through the car it will reveal to you all the issues that need attention. Btw, loving the Fiat Dino in your collection, my old adversary Altabani's ride of choice! 

Charlie ;-) 

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It certainly looks very well cared for, original and complete.  Lovely.  Such cars are v rare.

I can see both Charlie and Mike's point of view.  Rear chassis cross member showing corrosion - I suspect there may be some issues around the front  suspension turret too - but then again there is no rush.  It will probably last for years like that. A chassis swap is a big job, and better to enjoy the car as is for now.  Maybe hose the inside of rear cross-member with something like http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50  .  Easy to do, and it will give you the feeling that you've done what you can for now.

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Thanx. I have some more projects to finish first so I can enjoy and drive at least two years (propably 4 ;). I think I'll like to take chassis off later on.

Mike mentioned something about serie 2's regarding engine but those were not availeable -74? Or have I miss undertand something? English is not my first lanquage as you have noticed ;) please write to me as simpple as possible..

I's not Getrag as far I know, pattern is "normal".

There is missing some engine power too but it idles sweet. Where to start? Compression or timing? No smoke or oil consumption.

Place to buy new trim to back window and new outer mirrors (crome have disappeared)?

jukka

ps Charlie, that fiat has superb sounds :)

 

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Yes, its quite weak under 3000 but driveable. Have not tried over 5000, have to change belt before. It's been standing mostly last 10 years. Some how feels weak. Have to clean carbs too.

Although its been driven 200k km (I think because looks of frame).

Why on earth Phillips cassette player has microphone hanging in lower dash??

jukka

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Tuning does make a big difference, but you say it is idling well, so the carbs should be balanced. When the engine is running well, it revs very freely, and when driving it gets stronger with more revs.

To start, I would look at the following. all of which are easy to do at home.

- convert to electronic points, since the points are hard to reach, and then adjust the distributor timing.  

- Make sure the correct spark plugs are fitted.

- It is very unlikely, but the cam belt CAN be wrongly fitted without damaging the engine.   If so then you usually get very weak power and a lot of noise. I had this problem myself when I bought my car. It is easy to check.  It will require you to remove the bonnet.  This is necessary for most jobs.

- The accelerator pump diaphragms on the carbs can split, causing weak acceleration.  It is easy to fit new ones.

If you do not have a workshop manual, you should buy one. There are always some on eBay.  It is very useful.

 

From the pictures, your car appears to have been cared for properly. So I would be surprised if there was anything odd like incorrect cambelt fitting.

 

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Jukka

that looks fabulous.........well cared for indeed......:thumbsup:

cant say Ive ever see one with headlight washers.......

what are the carbs?......are they weber?......I have always had to set my webers set up by a specialist as I cant set them up.......

if I try it usually gets worse.....

oh....and a big welcome......:welcome:

cheers

G

The Faster You Drive...The Slower You Age

(Albert Einstein  14 March 1879 - 18 April 1955)

 

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Four pot volvo brake calipers on the front? Also Spax adjustables. I find that my Spax adjustables were a bit too firm, and have them on the lowest setting.

I think the Gearbox also looks like a Getrag 5 speed from an elite S2. There is square webbing on the side of the gearbox which to me says Getrag 26X.

It looks a nice well care for car. I think it might be on the register from years ago as a Blue one in Finland sticks in my memory. I will check this evening.

Dunc

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Thnx! Pleasure to be here!

That's a good was list to see main things, thanks Herc. I was thinking cambelt my self but idle is perfect. 1000rpm?

Old trick to make engine sound good when selling is to make timing late...will check.

Aftermarket brakes front, originals came with. Got to restore.

Spax schocs back, rest of it in boxes. Inc springs. Original springs seem to be corroded quite lot.

Still waiting to have lift to my garage, helps a lot for work! Do you ha recommendations for good 1-post lifts (moveable)?

jukka

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these guys were recommended a while back but I have no experience of them....

http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/

the recommendation was for a 4 post movable lift for 'storing' the car.......

personally Id probably go 2 or 4 post lift just for my own peace of mind and stability

http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/4t36s-mobile-4-post-parking-lift/

 

The Faster You Drive...The Slower You Age

(Albert Einstein  14 March 1879 - 18 April 1955)

 

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Bear in mind platform length - the wheel base of these cars is 98 inches and excessive overhang might cause concern.

Gareth's link above does offer a longer alternative (4m length) which is cheaper (?) than the original one linked (not sure why)

I would defo agree on the 2/4 post options over 1 post

Great looking car though! Well done.

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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That 1-post looks exactly like the one Twin Bush sales in Germany. My problem is limited space in my garage, only 100m2 for cars and 30m2 for parts and so on. Okay, its more than one usually has but I have 6 cars now and its much easier to handle those if there is only 1-post lift. Other hand, that moveable 4-post looks attractive, got to think.

Next problem, interior of Elite. Color code for exterior is L012 http://harrasteet.1g.fi/kuvat/Lotus+Elite+503+1974/Engine/WP_20151008_17_20_04_Pro.jpg and seats and doors looked this http://harrasteet.1g.fi/kuvat/Lotus+Elite+503+1974/Interior/ Are seat covers original? I don't think so. Where can be found factory options for interior materials and colors when paint is like mine?

jukka

 

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Jukka,

If you contact Andy Graham (I think that is correct?), the Lotus archivist, he should (for a small fee) tell you exactly what spec your car left the factory in.

Have to say, those seats look pretty authentic to me

 

Good Luck

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Andy Graham – Technical Publications and Archives
LOTUS AFTERSALES, 
Units 6 & 

7 John Hyrne Way
, Longwater Business Park, Costessey, Norwich, Norfolk NR5 0AF England.

T +44 (0)1603 732178              agraham@lotuscars.com

                                                      www.lotuscars.com

I think you'll find those are the seat fabrics they used on the very early cars.  I have some black and white publicity photos that were included in  the information pack sent out to Lotus dealers in 1974, and the car pictured has that corded seat fabric.

PS I'm in France until November, but I can post some copies of the pics if you want when I get back to the UK.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, changed gas pipes from carbs to bottom line. I found black rubber hose (8 mm) with fabric coating. And question is what has Lotus factory used?

Took it for a little spin and wonder why cooling fan is working all the time? It certainly is not too hot here now! Engine warms up in no time, minutes! I am using waterless coolant (Evans). Where to start, pump or thermostat or?

Gearstick is warming up after 50km drive. Normal?

jukka

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hello,

Finally got my Twinbush 1-post lift. Just love it. Its good and steady when standing on straight surface. Otherwice a bit un steady. There seems to be one Chinese manufacturer and multiple brands to buy.

Did allready something with it, changed joint in steering axel. Old one had 1/5 round free play and driving was not so accurate.http://harrasteet.1g.fi/kuvat/Lotus+Elite+503+1974/Steering/WP_20151115_16_28_28_Pro.jpg

Middle mufler is leaking badly, where to buy new or proper used one? I allready send email to lotus bits but no responce??? Anyone?

http://harrasteet.1g.fi/kuvat/Lotus+Elite+503+1974/Exhaust+system/FiiuLotari15.11.15+037.JPG

 

WP_20151113_22_00_18_Pro.jpg

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Wow Jukka

That is really a cool bit of kit - well impressed my friend.

Where do you sit the jacking points, assuming you don't lift on the fibreglass body?

Lotusbits are a bit crap on the email front - far better to phone - still reckon they are your best bet though.

Loving your Audi - I used to have one - the same colour (non turbo Quattro though) - simply epic, I'm hoping the elite corners as well :) 

Cheers

Ant

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Dont jack on the body!!!!! even if the manual did say that. I did and have two cracks which appeared above the wheels. Always Jack on the underside of the metal chassis on wooden or rubber blocks.

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Sorry, wasn't intending to spoil your fun but personally, I probably wouldn't - have seen some horror stories with cracking of shell. If you can make up some plates to further spread the weight over a wider area it would probably help or have a bar going across that picks up on the chassis - not sure how practical this is. Given you are lifting across all 4 points, it may be better than simply jacking up on one but I'd look into some sort of strengthening if it were mine.

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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