I checked and 3 for sale. 129€ - 300€. Nice..

I was trying to find parts to these connectors but male part is diameter 4,6mm and all female connectors I found here in Finland was 4mm or 5mm. Not fitting.

There are 2 loose leads besides pole. What are those for?

I got radio working now but same time my blinkers stop working. Not even hazards. Where to look?

There seems to be 2 blinker relays under dash (drivers side). I am not sure are they coupled together but dont think both are dead at same time. I have schema but do not understand that enough. I only have that switch plate in center off to remove and install radio, but because blinkers are not working anymore something went wrong. 

 

And same day I managed to broke rear window viper too...is there any for sale anymore?

So, not very succesfull day but tomorrow again...

 

Hi Jukka,

Tomorrow is another day! ?

SJS have the rear viper arms in black: B075M0257Z

Not sure about the leads but I have a switch for the engine compartment lamp, if they could be for that (but that might not be original). I'll try to take a photo tomorrow. 

Could there be a blown fuse for the blinker?

Did you find any new car to bring home from Germany? ?

Hi Jukka, 

I would look into to buying one of those power probes, fantastic bit of kit, its basically an electrical test light but with the lead you connect to pos and neg.

It does the same job as picking up pos signal, but you can also send a pos ccurrent from it, fantastic for electrical fault finding, i bought mine when they first came out years ago, but many companys make them now and they are very cheap.  A fantastic addtion to any tool box especially when dealing with old cars electrical systems like ours, makes electrical fault finding a breeze. 

Is your battery fully charged? Don't startany eelectrical work unless it is fully charged. If they (indicators) were working before but not now it coukd be simply the battery. Mine go mental when the charge is low. Check the battery first. Second it's probably just a dodgy earth, normally the one behind the front side light inside the bumper. Always check the battery and earths first, if they are good then your problem could be a relay, more likely a weak terminal somewhere, you probably knocked one off somewhere. 

Thanks, I'll check earths first. There were under radio group of earth connectors (abiko) as I recall now. How to get there with out taking switch board away? Can I remove those side plates somehow? Cooler fan light was misplaced....

No cars from Stuttgart, picture indicates why...

Only one Lotus spotted, this one

 

PS. I would be happy with used but right color rear viper if someone wants to sell

I have a purple and a white striped purple connecting to the little odd switch to the lamp. Was just thinking there might have been an "automatic" switch (like a door switch) placed somewhere in original, where your leads could go?

E.g. I have an empty hole in the grill close to the lamp that I don't know the purpose of - anyone got an idea if it can be related?

Beautiful Porsche! A bit over my budget though... Just love the looks of those, maybe to go for a replica could be within my possible reach...

Also the Eclat looks nice (apart from the colour, especially on the wheel caps - sorry if offending someone!)

Per, mine has same hole same place. Got to be hole for switch.

Okkay, been investigating more today. Found one broken blinker relay, 2 broken earth cabels and 1 broken indicator bulb. I switch realays (did not have new one in hands) and took hazard switch away. Now front and rear blinkers are working, very fast. Rear side lights try to blink too but only few times and then vent off. Should side markers act like blinkers?

I picked up new relays way home and need to try again later this week. Now blinkers are working some how but not properly....what next?

And charged my battery but no help this time.

 

Per, yours have condensator from ignition coil's pole to earth? And what is that relay left from coil (mine has it too but not in use)?

Edited March 28, 20169 yr by JPohja

3 hours ago, JPohja said:

And what is that relay left from coil (mine has it too but not in use)?

No idea  Try to check it out later in the week...

Hi, whats right frequency blinkers to blink? Very fast or slow? I got everything working only frequency is bit too fast for my taste. Put vid later.

A fast flash will be lower power consumption bulbs. Check that you have 21w bulbs or haven't got one blown somewhere or replaced with led types

Good point! Working

Btw, should side lights blink too?

 

Just noticed front side light chrome trim (passenger side, right) missing? Can I buy somewhere new? Not SJS or lotusbits. Bauke?

Auts One stud does not come off. Crack in manifold...what to do?

Yes that's a harrible job. My sympathy goes out to you. I was lucky enough not to encounter this problem.

I got nuts out and new sealing on but its not thick enough. Surfaces are not exact even or something and its leaking a little. Have you got same problem? From where thicker sealing?

ps. I am lifting it up from gf body but getting engine weight out of body bolts. Maybe not good idea but cannot do it any other way at this moment..

Engine stopped running, fuel pump is not working all the time. Little knocking and it vill work again some time. Is there something to service in the pump? Or just buy new one? If possible I like to use original one

I think the pumps only run when the pressure drops i.e. run on demand, try taking off the pipe at the carburetors or after the shut off valve, turn on the ignition and see if the fuel is pumped freely before replacing the pump.

I have checked rest of fuel lines so problem is in pump. But is it repaireable? Have not checked if it can be opened? My garage is 40 km from where I live and cannot visit every night.

Hi,

This sounds like it might be a normal 'feature' of these old SU fuel pumps.

They have a contact breaker (like ignition points) inside, and these get old and stick. A sharp thump often gets them working again, for a while. You can easily remove the black top off the pump and see the contact breaker below, so you can check if the points look burnt and in need of replacement.

The longer term solution (as I did for mine) is to replace the contact breaker with some electronics. Burlen, who now supply SU parts, have an excellent kit

http://sucarb.co.uk/su-fuel-pumps-spares/electronic-conversion-kits.html

It's easy to fit inside the pump, so keeps the original look, and work very well. I've had mine for some 10 years without any further problems.

Tony

 

Thanks Tony, thats just what I need! Looks original outside but is reliable.

Working while with Fiat but now back to Elite. One little knock and fuel pump works again. Short trip, without brakes, tells that power is missing. Try to adjust timing to round 10 degrees but does not idle well. In 30 deg advance it idles nice, maybe markings are not correct. Have not opened distributor or carbs yet. What is usually reason for weak engine, runs smooth but not much power?