Driveshaft is leaking from the roll pins

[AndersL]

Last winter I changed the drive shaft seal, now it leaks oil from the roll pins, I do not remember if I sealed the pins back then. The question is, can i just put some locktite silicone seal on the pin ends or do I have to knock out the pins and thus also switch to new ones.

[sailorbob]

For the sake of a couple of roll pins I would knock the old ones out and fit new ones as the bore of the output shaft should be filled with Silastic before the drive shaft is refitted. That said, you could try just sealing the ends and seeing if that works first.

[AndersL]

Thank you, it was as I thought, it's best to knock out the pins and seal them again. 

[hspeck]

I had initially what seemed to be the same issue, so I knocked out the pin and replaced with new pin sealed. However the leak reappeared few days later.

I had to remove the drive shaft and replaced the oil seal too after that.

So I think it might be best to pull the drive shaft and replace the seal and refill the bore with Silastic to ensure it is not the pin?

[AndersL]

I have similar consideration, but it's easier to just change and seal the pins 😉

[Glyn Harper]

The problem is the oil seals on the end of the shaft. I have double oil seals fitted. A bit trickier to get the drive shafts back on, but when you do, no leaks!

[AndersL]

maybe it's a good idea, I did not think there was room for two seals on the outside of each other

 

[Chillidoggy]

When I had my gearbox rebuilt, the guy put an O-ring over each output shaft spline, which he said helps stop oil leaking past. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull them in enough to get the roll pin holes lined up, but I have no oil leakage, at least from that area.

[hspeck]

I was also told to apply a generous amount of grease on the barrel??

not sure if it will help

[Glyn Harper]

On 02/12/2018 at 16:43, Chillidoggy said:

When I had my gearbox rebuilt, the guy put an O-ring over each output shaft spline, which he said helps stop oil leaking past. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull them in enough to get the roll pin holes lined up, but I have no oil leakage, at least from that area.

I think you had your gearbox rebuilt by Chris Cole? He did the same double O ring fitment on mine, and did mention a previous customer saying they’d used ratchet straps to get the driveshafts back in.

[Chillidoggy]

I'm not sure it was a double O-ring, rather a single.

I won't be using his services again as the gearbox, which had no indication of any internal issues, wasn't leaking before I removed it. It started leaking from the main casing joint as soon as it was reinstalled (looks like RTV was used instead of the specified Loctite 518). It is also leaking from the input shaft. This means I shall have to remove it once more and have it checked/resealed. I can however say it was nice and clean when I got it back, and as I said, it doesn't leak from the driveshaft output shafts.

[Glyn Harper]

That's a shame.. he did a great job on mine. He's very well regarded in the GT40 replica groups, as they use the same gearbox. Mine seems spot on so far, not a drip!

[Steve V8]

9 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

It started leaking from the main casing joint as soon as it was reinstalled

We all know that you've had a dipstick installed on the gearbox bell housing to check how much oil has leaked out of that crankshaft oil seal, my guess is its overflowed out the top and is seeping over the casings...😁😁😁

[Chillidoggy]

12 hours ago, Steve V8 said:

We all know that you've had a dipstick installed on the gearbox bell housing to check how much oil has leaked out of that crankshaft oil seal, my guess is its overflowed out the top and is seeping over the casings...😁😁😁

Thankfully this has been disproved by use of a mini-camera. Still pissed off, though.

[AndersL]

i will use loctite 5699 instead of what many others use loctite 587, i had 5699 lying therefore fall the choice of it and i do not think it's such a big difference

10131_Charts_web_gasket.pdf

[89esprit]

As tight as those roll pins are when driven "home" its hard to believe that they would leak.  Make sure the slots on them are opposite each other as it states in the FSM.  I know they go in easier when they are lined up together, (AMHIK) perhaps that is what happened on the install. 

 

[hspeck]

I replaced my driveshaft and now the pins are leaking. 

Have replaced oil seal and applied silastic. 

Any suggestions where it might have gone wrong? 

Thanks. 

[Chillidoggy]

That's a pain!

Assuming it was all clean to start with, and you fitted the roll pins 180 degrees to each other, you could try fitting an O-ring in the output shaft recess as suggested earlier.

[hspeck]

Yes.. The slots are opposite.. 

Will try with the o-ring.. Need to find the correct size I guess.. 

[Chillidoggy]

9 minutes ago, hspeck said:

Yes.. The slots are opposite.. 

Will try with the o-ring.. Need to find the correct size I guess.. 

Can't help you with the size. Whatever, you'll need to remove the shafts to do the job, so you can have a measure up then. Unless perhaps someone has a driveshaft laying around they could measure?

[hspeck]

Yeah.. Guess will have to do that. 

Thanks 

[ramjet]

Maybe it is just me, but I am sure the manual states to put silicon in both ends of the rolled pins after assembly, before putting oil in the transaxle?

Maybe the use of silicon is twofold. Preventing crap and water getting into the rolled pins and causing the removal issues we have seen on here, and to assist with the oil leaking issue.

I used silicon and have not had an issue.

[hspeck]

Used silicon on the pins and splines and all seems good now.. 

Will need to monitor for a few days.. 

Thanks for the advice 

[hspeck]

Sorry about the driveshaft again... My old driveshaft was leaking grease at the joint, and I am looking to repair them. However, my regular shops like SJ and pnm does not sell the h joint separately. 

Anyone knows if I can weld the moving joint, or the cover is available to purchase somewhere. 

Thanks.