bzsport350

And that’s it for today. Tomorrow I start taking engine apart so I can pull it out. I’m writing this up for you guys to see as well for me to keep a visual memory of where everything goes

Last is to undo the transmission mount bolts. There are 2 22mm bolts that bolt up to transmission and then a 19mm nut with a 5/8 head bolt that you have to hold in place that is in the lower link attachment Then after much hassling and finagling transmission finally came out. Never again will I separate tranny from engine in situ.

I had to take the inboard rotors out cause there’s not enough room to wiggle out transmission. They are held on by 3 17mm bolts on each side. You have to use a thin wall socket. Now it’s time to hit the rest of the bell housing bolts. There are 3 17mm left on top of engine then 2 more 17mm under car and 2 14mm on the bottom of the bell housing

To get starter out I had to undo the oil dipstick. It’s screwed into block with a 16mm. Just unscrew and pull it out Starter comes out from the bottom

Next up I undid the clutch slave cylinder. Again no need to take clutch line out. Just undo the 2 13mm bolts. Just move it out of the way. Next up starter. Undo the 13mm that holds the positive cable and the two spade connectors to the starter Starter is held to bell housing by 2 17mm bolts

Now it’s time to undo shifter linkage. There’s a cable and a rod. Undo the cotter pin from the cable and the rod is a 13mm. The cable is held in place with a 7/8 nut that holds it in place in the bell housing. Undo the 7/8 bolt on the transmission side then unthread the rod and move cable out of the way. Also undo the reverse switch which is in the back of transmission on right side Then I undid the down exhaust pipe from turbo which also has the O2 sensor. Unc lip O2 sensor. Exhaust is held on by 3 13mm bolt. I had undid exhaust a couple years ago so the bolts came out easy but this is the hardest part. They will not come out easy

I took the drive shafts only from transmission side. No need to take off from tire side. then I loosened the speedometer cable. It just unscrews and is located on left side of transmission

Next up remove calipers. Held by 2 19mm bolts on side of transmission mount. Loosen bolts but they will not come out. Just so you can remove caliper. No need to disconnect brake line or emergency brake. Wire tie caliper out of the way Next up time to take half shafts out. These are held together by 6 per side H8 Allen head bolts. Please make sure Allen key is fully inserted before trying to loosen. The Allen head bolts will strip and then you’re screwed. Happened on another car and was biggest pain in the butt to undo. They are tight every two bolts share a washer

So today I started my project. Lotus turbo S3 esprit se. im gonna do a write up of what I am doing as I go along. First things first disconnect battery and take out rear trunk. Next drain engine oil and transmission oil engine oil is a 17mm if I remember and the tranny drain plug is 7/8 Before I do anything when they say that it is easier to take transmission and engine out together LISTEN!!!! I said I was going to part transmission and engine and what a royal pain in the ass it is. I wonder how they replace clutch or is it a engine out job with trunk out of the way first thing I did was remove transmission crossmember brace. It is held together with 4 17mm bolts. That part is stressed and you will here a clunk when you take it out. Transmission cross member brace

No I have a car that doesn’t run for 4 years and I have a spare se motor that I had rebuilt and want to put in. But it’s ok to have a bad day. And also I let the car sit for 4 years. I haven’t tried to get it running. Other projects took precedent. I’m just coming round to the esprit and want to invest my full time and resources to get her to run better than before. Last time she was running

If anyone has a lead to the main engine wiring harness from an se please let me know

I did revert back to original and it’s something else. I have the charge cooler and running plumbing to the front with another radiator won’t be a big deal. Just think A g body with an se motor

I had an s4 and a sport350 sold the, because I prefer the shape of the G body. Much more beautiful lines. So simple. It’s not the power I’m after. Have vehicles with much more power. I want to keep it pure lotus cause I love the motor. Just a bit more power and a little but more reliability. I’ve had this car for 20 plus years. And for the last 4 I can’t get it to run anymore. I did Klaus ignition upgrade and since then it doesn’t want to stay running. Starts and fires but doesn’t want to run. I have a delorean that I converted to carbs and that car runs so much nicer now.

As title says I have an 87 HCI us model and though I have original motor I also have an SE motor. The HCI motor is good but due to some outside electrical issues car does not run. I want to install the SE motor in and find an SE wiring harness and hopefully get a little more oomph out of this car. I want to do away with the k jetronic. It will be mated to the citroen box but I will not be doing peel outs or anything like that. has anyone done anything like this?

Problem solved. I had taken the rear cam cover to change seal and that holds the cam in place. So my cam moved back that 8th of an inch