Spumkosteve

Anyone had good or bad experiences with MOTs in the Reading area and does anyone really rate someone in this part of the world when it comes to getting your pride and joy tested? Thanks.

Definately thinking down that route slightly longer term but would like a cheaper short term fix while I work out the winning lottery numbers...

I've just failed my mot because I had exhaust gasses pissing out all over the show through the join between my silencer and the turbo exhaust section. Upon closer examination and disassembly, the (cast) flange that was welded to the silencer has corroded badly and come adrift. Has anyone experienced this and, if so, is there any advice about oxy acetylene welding of cast flanges or do you think I need a new silencer. Thanks.

Thanks. I'll give it a go when the rain stops. Cheers.

Help! Just tried to replace the rear pads on my '85 Turbo after a while with little use. OK with first caliper but couldn't wind the piston back up the handbrake mechanism on the second. It turns but doesn't go back into the caliper so that it can be fitted over the new (thicker) pads. Anyone experienced this or know how to deal with it? Thanks for any help. Steve

Thanks Steve. Sorry, hadn't seen this post when I posted re juddering turbo.

My Late '85 Esprit Turbo has done what you describe until my latest bout of fettling. I balanced the carbs and set the CO levels with the help of this forum and some stuff that isn't in the manuals. However, even though I was convinced I 'd set the timing correctly in the past, there was still spitting back through my carbs and uneven, juddery running as the turbo started to boost. This was most noticable with gradual tubo progression rather than a quick boot to the floor with the right foot. Simple answer for me. Ignition timing. I posted a question as to what this should be recently but haven't had a definitive answer here. I'm using the 25 degrees BTDC at 3500-4000rpm I got from the factory. All now seems to be much better. The potential of the car I bought is back and I will give it one more morning of fine tuning and it should be there.

Thanks Steve. Been seeing figures like: 25 degrees BTDC at 3500-4000rpm and 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpm and even stuff further from this. I know that there's lots of variation depending on car and dizzy type. Cheers

Just done a search on this subject and I'm a little confused as there were a couple of different answers. Can anyone tell me what the the timing for a late 1985 Esprit Turbo should be at idle when checking with a timing strobe and if there are other engine speeds that a different timing can be used as a check? Thanks.

You have to take the header rail off. Mine has two scews near the clock and two at the ends hidden behind the side rails. These come off if you prise off the rubber door seal at the top and undo the two screws visible from the outside but normally hidden under the seal. The clock is held on by two nylocks from memory and there's an electrical connector to undo.

I had a clonking on bumpy roads and was given the usual list of suspects to track down. Obviously, as it's a Lotus, none of them was responsible. It turned out to be in my rear bumber which acts as a great big echo chamber. One of the inserts used to hold it on had broken through the fiberglass and was lying inside. Whenever I hit a bump it bounced round a little. Easy to sort but a pig to find.

I put in a braided hose to replace the original and refilled the whole system quite easily. Not sure if it's as per the textbook but, here goes. Keep fluid away from paint. Draining is as simple or as messy as you can manage but I started at the slave cylinder end, opened the bleed and with a suitable tube over the nipple into a glass container. With plenty of rags wrapped round everything, pump the clutch pedal gently a few times to empty the main reservoir and the hose as much as possible. Filling is the reverse with the master cylinder top off (lots of rags again!) and very gently clutch depressing and topping up of the reservoir. Have a chum watch the slave bleed and when the last of the old fluid is through and the air behind it has all been expelled so that new fluid is coming through, tighten the bleed, remove the tube and put the master cylinder top back on. Clean it all throuroughly and check operation. Any sponginess and you may have air in there so do it all again until no air bubbles appear in the fluid being expelled from the tube on the bleed. If you want to remove the slave cylinder at any time, two bolts hold it to the bell housing and there's the clutch hose at one end and the rod that operates the relese lever at the other. I haven't done this recently so apologies if I've missed anything. I'm sure someone else will fill in any blanks.

Did the damage to the blades affect performance under boost in any way?

Each one is held onto the header rail by two nylock nuts . The only way to get to the nuts is by taking the header rail off. This is held on by screws near the rear view mirror and (probably) screws at the B-post end which are hidden by the trim over each door. If you peel off the door rubbers and undo the screws holding the trim over each door from the outside of the car, you can get at the header rail ends. The only other things that might need to be removed are the inner B-post trim. These are held on by trim clips in plastic cups in the B-post. Slide a knife or screwdriver or (better still) a trim removing tool up under each B-post trim where you've removed the door seal rubber to get these clips released. Once all the header rail screws are released, this can drop down but you need to disconnect the digital clock so don't drop it too far and feel for the connector. Good luck. PS Have you're sun visor covers started to come apart?

I have a top for a 40 but not sure if it's the same as the 45. Anyone out there know if this will help?