benjamincalleja

Hey guys! Two problems. Firstly the oil pressure gauge light went out so I figured it was the bulb. I assume the lotus position and take the binnacle out and change the bulb. Nothing. I check all connections. Nothing. Weird thing is that every other light in the dash works and the oil,pressure gauge itself works. What could it be??? Second thing: my wiper bottle has decided to start dumping the water into the passenger footwell when I try to clean the windscreen. Weird thing here is that the tubes are still both connected on passenger and drivers side and the tubes don't feel perished at all. So I figure the leak must be behind the radio somewhere? Where do the water lines go? Do I need to take the damned interior apart to fix this??! Not a happy day...

Hey guys...weird things happening with my new OEM front suspension for my 89MY turbo. It used to have AVO coilovers front and rear and the front was lowered so much you couldnt even see a gap between the arch and the front tires. I never really experienced good handling until now - i replaced the fronts with the OEM units (car now riding a bit front-high) but it has tranformed the handling (even though all the bushes are nearly dead). Weird thing is though, the high speed handling is now really confidence inspiring but ive noticed that, especially in the wet, my citroen c4 has more grip going around corners at low speed! At roundabouts doing say 40km/h the esprit understeers terribly! In the dry it still understeers but not as much, need to be doing say 50 or 60 round a roundabout to make it do it. The same speeds in the dry in the C4 are effortless! Is this a design thing, is the esprit meant to have loads of grip at high speeds at the expense of low speed grip?

worked a treat. it was just the crossed wires. interestingly, my purge pump which has never worked during my ownership of 5 years has suddenly started working. it whines away for awhile after ignition off if the engine is hot. makes me wonder if it was wired wrong or poorly, given everything had to be DC then reconnected after my tank replacement work recently. now everything on the car works, every damn item EVERYTHING!!! unbelievable

Im now 99% sure the wires have been crossed, because i changed the otter switch today for a new one (i now realise not needed) and the wires i recall were PK (purple pink) and B black - the manual states these wires are for the purge pump temp switch!!! The otter switch should be YLG (yellow green) and BO (black orange). Id bet the house that tomorrow when I go and swap them over everything will be fine. It really does make sense, the radiator relay is getting signal from the purge pump temp switch at 70 degrees to switch on, the fans come on and cant keep the car cooler than 80 odd degrees so the coolant stays at 80 and the fans just stay on until the coolant reaches 60 degrees.... which is never when the car is running!!! Useful hack if you want the car to always stay at 80??? Might be tough on the fan motors tho...

I ask because i notice the purge pump temp switch, the lowest one on the thermostat outlet pipe is activated at 70 degres and cuts off at 60 degrees....if the wiring has been switched between that and the otter switch that would explain why my fans are NOT on when i first turn the car on, kick in at 70 and then just never turn off....can anyone confirm?? I will try to replace the fan relay as well

all good! HRS = heated rear screen relay....

Hey guys, what is the HRS relay? what does it do? HRs = ?

WAIT sorry was just checking my relay labelling diagram in the manual and all i did it seems was change over E and C which is Main beam relay and HRS relay....not very helpful....did not touch "D" fan relay...soooo ill check that tomorrow and see....dammit if that works then i just changed a working Otter switch for no reason!!

silly idea but trying to think laterally...the garage would have had to disconnect all three sensors on that pipe to do the fuel tank change work, what would happen if they reconnected the wrong ones? Is that even possible or are they one-fit only for the switch they go in to?

hmmmm today i changed swapped the relay as advised (i dont have a new one, i just swapped the main beam with the fan relay) and also changed the otter switch for a brand new one but the problem is still there....from cold the fans kick in at 80 then never turn off until you turn the car off...

i got it from SJ, part no SJ089M0008....

the fan relay? I replaced that maybe two years ago but should I grab a new one?

God i wish!!! I cant find the damn things for love or money that actually fit!!!

Hey Vuclan, yea im not sure about how they were installed....and SailorB other thread on TLF seem to indicate that on Lotus and indeed any car at the bare minimum a rubber rejuvinator should be applied (perhaps not a lubricant in the grease sense of the word). I have Wurth rubber rejuvenator which ive been told is good for something like my issue? ( and also your door seals etc etc)?

hey guys, my car has always idled at 900-1000rpm but ever since i had my fuel tanks replaced with aluminium ones with new fuel pump, the water pump rebuilt and the temp gauge sender replaced it runns at 1200...the throttle cable doesnt seem tight etc....throttle jack, when activated doesnt even touch the throttle so it aint the throttle jack....weird...

this is whats happened with me with my 88 turbo, ever since i had the tanks replaced and the temp gauge sender replaced (which must be unrelated) my fans cut in at 80 degrees then just never turn off again, doesnt cycle!!! otter switch?? the otter switch is only a year old though...

if my front bushes are squeaking (not sure which ones, but must be them because my front suspension spring and shock were installed two days ago and its still doing it) can i just lubricate the bushes with something to stop it? The rubber is one the way out but there is still life there in them, what do i use? Is Wurth rubber care ok? or CRC dry PTFE spray?

yea i try to find the answer elsewhere first haha ill post it thanks!

Hey guys, the parts manual says for the 88 turbo cars that the instruments are 3W bulbs, so long as it fits are there any issues with putting a 5 or 7 or 10w version in? So dim otherwise...

Sorry again for the thread resurrection but if my front bushes are squeaking (not sure which ones, but must be them because my front suspension spring and shock were installed two days ago and its still doing it) can i just lubricate the bushes with something to stop it? The rubber is one the way out but there is still life there in them, what do i use?

Old thread but where are all the pics we can see to help us with this, some before after shots of what people think is high will go a long way to make it a bit more scientific!

hey guys, ended up installing the OEM front shocks and springs assay as a stop gap until i can swallow $4k cost for the 2006 package, riding very high now?? The car used to have AVO shocks and springs front and rear and both axles were lowered so not sure if its just because the new OEM fronts are the correct height and it looks high only because the back is lowered...will the OEM front setup "settle" an inch or so?

no, i dont know what battery size to do that? surely i cant just connect a 12v? the solenoid only has one wire going in too...confusing RE testing. and to remove it id have to undue the cable to the flap as well, if im going to do that, remove the whole lot i may as well replace it? Though if it still doesnt work god only knows why...

hey guys! so i spent a few hours on this today, i removed the screws, sanded the metal down in case it was a bad earth and reattached but it still only works 1:30 click of the fuel flap switch. does that mean the solenoid is bad and i need a new one? I tested the other side by taking off the earth (it stopped working) and putting it back on (it started working again!) so whilst part of me thinks its an earth issue, after sanding the metal down and the attchement of the earth cable and it still only working 1:30 clicks, surely that must mean the motor itself is bad right?

Wow, re reading that it made no sense. So: My drivers side fuel flap doesnt work The other side does. They must both be on the same fuse, so it cant be a fuse issue Why doesnt my fuel flap work **nb, i took the wires out of the back of the fuel flap button and put them back in, then the drivers side worked once. but then stopped again. repeating didnt make it work again.