DaveyT

...Accessed via the ultimate guitar site. It seems like a no brainer at $15 a month, and the trial lessons look ok, but you know how these things can sometimes be. Anyone tried it? Just about to sign up for it as I want to take my playing up a level or 5, so any feedback would be most welcome. Thx, Dave

Hi Geert, this sounds like good stuff. Was the base different colours before you started (i.e. the aluminium silver and bumper/mirrors with black/primer) or were they all basically black, and you used it just as a "top up"? It reads like the first was the case (as mine will be), but just to be sure… and Hopo…" a little shabby"??? You, sir, have exceptionally high standards!! I printed out your sale pics from PH late last year to show Dad & asked "do you think we can get it to look as good as this?" Thx, Dave

Any particular satin black? Aerosol or mixed for you? I've seen threads saying the halfords aerosol is about the closest to original finish that's easily available. Any pics of the finish available ( your avatar's a bit misleading on that front!?) Thx, Dave

You Disconnected the Battery ??!!! You Fool …. If its anything like my 04 Scenic, there's a sequence of ignition key positions, timings and/or various buttons to press or hold to get your auto window functions back. No idea what they are for your car though. Got the owners handbook? Dave

Good stuff, but might be wise to check your levels on the m/c. It may have been that your fluid had nowhere left to go when trying to retract with the bleed closed... Dave

I see your dilemma. Might be a silly Q, but have you tried with the bleed nipple open? It would eliminate the possibility of there being too much hydraulic pressure for any reason

Agreed. There's a thread somewhere on here though, Geert, with photos of the internals of our calipers, ie. the square peg with 4 grooves ( hence the 45 degree twist I presume)! So I could see how using a retractor would work to press the piston back - when NOT engaged with the ratchet threads - provided there's no other interfering parts in there.

Paul, do you have the actual parts list (as opposed to the workshop manual)? It provides much better exploded diagrams of all the bits... I find I refer to that first now, then to the workshop manual if I need any specs. Dave

That may very we'll have been what Dad used - though probably a pneumatic one. I was V. concerned in case it damaged the internal mechanism... Heard lots of nasty stories and understand from SWLC that it's very difficult to replace the rear inboard calipers these days... Have you used one of these on your inboards John?

Yes, Geert, they are the inboard brakes... For confirmation, I think you should be able to see some pics of the calipers on my blog "getting started" and a pic of the engine/ box out but discs still attached in the next posting. Will try to find out tomorrow how constant pressure was applied. D

Geert, I - or rather the old man - had this issue with the s3 rears... Having explained to him, and pointed him to links on this forum, about the recognised way to do it, he also couldn't get the pistons to retract from the aligned 45degree position. In the end, he applied constant (LIGHT) pressure whilst rotating the piston clockwise, and it retracted fully, without apparent problems in subsequent operation... All I can assume is that for each 1/4 turn, the piston slipped back enough to grab the next thread, and ended up all the way in incrementally. Bear in mind though that the caliper has only been tested on the bench with air, not yet installed, but I hope it helps Dave

Rather thanks start a new thread... The seal seems to be the weak point in the water pump ( although mine managed 75k before I wrecked it by running without coolant for 2 mins), so my question... Has anyone looked at possible replacement of just the seal with modern technology? Just about to strip mine ready for measuring and investigating this option, but what parameters do I need ...dims, obviously, but what about compression against faces etc. Thanks, Dave

Hi Charlie, sorry for the delay, been moving house and got no wifi here yet... When you say "inserted the headrests", do you mean fitting the foam into the covering pouch? If so, I think they basically just squeezed in... Headrest cover is separate from main seat, disguised by the band that clips on at the rear. Sorry not to be more accurate, but if had been any more difficult than that I'm sure I'd have remembered, and I'm sure I didn't need to do any hand stitching on them. Dave

Thanks Charlie, ruching the sides was one of those head scratchy moments... Fortunately I also have a Mum who used to be a seamstress/upholsterer, so I kind of grew up with it. In all honestly there's a couple of bits I need to redo, so thanks to Christ for the skiving info. Tyson in southall do second hand ones, on a table with 1/2 hp motor( got mine to do a boat canopy way back when, just never got round to getting rid til last month!). They're worth a try if you go that way but IIRC you're not going the leather route, so I'd stand by the " use what u got" idea, at least for a test item... Simon, I've read your info appreciatively, it's certainly inspired to to get a move on. I'll be travelling from Bangor to Lincoln early July, and would love to see your car in the flesh if poss..? Dave

Charlie, you don't need a walking foot machine. If you can get one for that price it (or a walking needle machine) would make it easier, but you'll manage without - just make sure your machine will handle the thicker thread size you need for this job. I did mine in Connolly hide with a walking needle machine and yes, it was a bit of a pig, especially around the clock area as Buddsy said.. Did it about 5 years ago, cost then was c.£550 for all the materials inc foam backing. However, with current YouTube info and this forum, I think you're right to just go for it. Do a seat first; it's not the easiest part, but includes most of the techniques you'll need and can be refitted to check without gluing into place. Remove the current seat, rip the seam threads and make patterns from tissue paper, making sure to keep the seam depth even. At the end of the day, if you still have to get someone to do a few of the more awkward bits, you'll still have saved a shed load and have the satisfaction of having done it yourself. Blue Peter moment... Here's one I did earlier (bit of pattern paper still need cleaning off the seams): OTOH, if you fancy a month long trip to Malta...?

So who's the best bet for a refurb then? Mine needs doing, and was just about to go to SJ, as I seem to recall some issues with Lotusbits refurb mentioned on here. Any bad feedback on PNM refurbs? Better to do it myself?? Thanks, Dave

Giorgio, I need a new o/s black on black, but have been waiting 6 weeks for Mike at Lotusbits to get back to me.. Have just seen a thread on a mini site indicating that early Landy discovery has the same as the Morris marina, which is the same as ours?: certainly looks that way externally, and they might be more available to you locally, although new Landy prices seem quite high at c. £150 a side for the entire mechanism Can anyone confirm mechanism compatibility?

W6? Need to get some "spotted" cards, as it seems not to be anyone on here...

Compression test now done correctly, although cold, and good news I think: 1 - 150 2 - 140 3 - 136 4 - 148 so all within 10 percent of each other as well if 150psi is the datum. Run from a battery connected to a jump stater pack. a,d gearbox & clutch removed. Thanks to all for the help, although I'd still like to know what the vacuum connection on no1 manifold inlet should be connected to though. Been thro the parts manual , but sadly no n/a breakdowns.

Giorgio, I realised today that I have the pump with me, but all my garage stuff is packed waiting on moving house, so it may be few weeks before I get to strip it. If anyone else is after it, take that offer & I'll get SJ to refurb mine. I'll keep my eye on this thread tho in case I get round to it sooner Thanks Dave

6.45 pm. Right up my tow bar as I pulled into the Horse & Groom. Sounded great as you pulled away

I trust it has a scaled TLF sticker in the window?!

Thx Paul, I think I spotted one of your earlier posts noting your values and thought the same thing, ie. wow, that's high! Mine needs testing again as I didn't do it properly (throttles closed last test rather than open) but i suspect that the reason for 1&2 being higher than 3&4 was the open vacuum take off from the inlet manifold on no1 pot. My thought is that, IF the inlet casting is such that this vacuum tube is fed by both barrels 1&2, then both of those pots would have sucked in more air, and therefore given higher readings, than the completely closed 3&4. If OTOH, it only feeds pot 1, then it's back to the drawing board.... TBH, I really need to do another test, but as the lump if currently out, that can only be done cold (no real worries there, just expect lower values - I think I've seen 130 as acceptable cold readings), so it's just a matter of getting dad to do it as I'm not back there now til July :-(

Pump is off, but still assembled at the moment so I'll have dad check, hopefully later today. When you say internal shaft dia, I take it this is the dia of the larger mid section, and can only be measured with the impellor out of the body?

Hi Giorgio, I'm interested. Want to pm me some details. Mine is an S3 na with a/c. Any idea if the seal fits this variant? You say an SJ repair kit. I thought they used to do one but I spoke to Steve last Monday & he said they never have, only offered a refurb service. Hmmm... Dave