Geeman

I had the same question to Barry about this. I think you're assumption is correct. I set my 123 distributor up with the engine at TDC and it was too far advanced when idling. I had to rotate the distributor to 10 degrees BTDC at idle once it was running. I used an advance timing light too.

I have a set of new front discs for my 1984 Turbo that I fitted. I checked the runout and endfloat on the discs and hub and all good, but I'm still getting a judder under braking. I've checked the steering and suspension etc and am sure its all OK. I spoke to Steve at SJ and he said the best thing to do is have the discs turned on the car. It looks like the caliper has to be unbolted and held out the way for the cutters to access the full faces of the disc. There are special adaptors for the machine to attach to the hub wheel face. Looks like the PCD is 5 bolt on a 120mm PCD. I have actually found someone locally who can do this but before I commit has anyone had this done before? Was the machine able to fit on the Esprit?

Pete, no I wouldn’t 😬. But where are you located? If in the US try Barry Spencer on the west coast. He may have some spare ones. Maybe even SJ in the U.K.

Pete here are some photos. I’ll try and find the parts. I’ll have them somewhere.

Pete, I will have a rummage. Give me a couple of days or so. Do you have the parts manual? I believe its shows the different parts.

I was able to swap it out without removing the carbs. Mine is a US car and I also have the air pump and emission equipment removed which helps access. I think I did remove the plenum cover though.

Martyn, I just came across this thread and saw a photo you posted of the front ventilation flaps and vacuum actuator. Have you got into the ventilation controls in detail because if so, maybe you can help me. I have a 1984 Turbo and the ventilation controls are not quite what they should be. The air distro knob seems to function, and I can see the little white plungers actuating as a result of turning the knob. The main front recirc flap in the front boot does work as it should. However, the flaps inside the ventilation box do not. I have checked all the vacuum lines and I am sure all the connections are good. My thoughts are maybe the distro flaps have simply seized up over time. I was wondering if you got to look at yours and if you can offer any advice on freeing them up. Thanks in advance.

I recently fitted a 123 distributor bought from Barry Spencer in the US. So far so good and easy too install. Much more flexibility to rotate to a convenient position. My 1984 US spec Turbo had the original distributor in, but as said when trying to re-time it after an engine out service to 10 degrees BTDC (per Barry's direction) I found the vacuum unit hit the oil filter before I got the 10 degrees. One odd thing I found was with the cam marks aligned, and the front crank pulley aligned to TDC, the flywheel marks were about 2-3 degrees off. Hmmm. I went the front pulley marks as correct and compensated with my timing light on the flywheel. So far so good.

It was originally experiencing a transition stumble, and yes I have a Morgantune 4 way manometer.

I am following up. Over the weekend I spent time adjusting the idle mixture screws again with the 54 idle jets. I drove the car to put it under load, and concentrated on gentle throttle progression to see if I could feel any hesitation or stumble coming off idle. I kept turning the idle screws in a 1/2 or 1/4 turn (from a 6 turns out baseline) after each run until I just felt a hesitation, then turned out a 1/2 or 1/4 turn. Checked the idle was still good etc. Then checked the CO with the Gunson CO analyser. I got around 2.1% CO. Reading the Des Hammill book, that CO% seems acceptable and the idle screws are screwed out 4-3/4 turns, so again within an acceptable range. I am going to maintain those settings for a few miles and see how it performs. I expect to see the plugs be less black for sure. Thanks for all your input.

Barry recommended size 54, but I have also read of 58 being a good size. I have 54, 56 & 58 brand new idle jets to try. Currently I have 54 fitted but they are turned out about 6 full turns to get what I think is a good smooth idle. Not sure if that's too many turns out as a rule of thumb. I bought a Gunson CO gas analyser and with the 54 at 6 turns out it gave a reading of about 4.7% Barry had advised a CO of about 1.4%, but that was with emissions equipment still fitted. So with mine all removed he said not to worry too much about getting a CO of 1.4% and go with what the engine sounds happy with. I am just concerned about it running too rich. Right now after trying 54 and 58 jets, the plugs are more black than brown. I think it's just a case of me fine tuning all around several times.

I am working on getting the best idle jets and tuning for my US spec 11984 Turbo. I have removed all the emission equipment and fitted a catalyst bypass exhaust from SJ. I have a new 123 distributor fitted courtesy of Barry Spencer too. The carbs have been ultra-sonically cleaned and rebuilt with a new rebuild kit. Factory idle jets were 52 and everything I've read suggests these are a little too lean and contribute to the off idle/ 2000-3000rpm 'stumble'. Often folks over come this by going with large idle jets. So here is my 'dumb' question. What is the difference in carb/mixture performance if you fitted say 54 idle jets with the idle mixture screws turned out 4-1/2 full turns vs 58 idle jets with the idle mixture jets turned out 3 full turns and both gave a good smooth idle?

Depending on your car spec, if you disconnect the small grey connector to the fuel inertia cut off switch close to where the coil and all that is housed, that appears to stop the fuel pump running, at least it does in my US spec 1984 Turbo.

Well I found the issue thanks to Escape and Andyww's input. The problem turned out to be the ACU Relay socket. One of the female connectors that pushes into the back of the relay socket was pushed back too far and the relay pin wasn't making sufficient contact. I managed to push the female connector from behind the socket as I pushed the relay into place and that brought back the contact. I jumped the otter switch connectors and with the ignition turned on the fans ran.

Silver Esprit, did you sort this issue out? I think I am having similar issues with my 84 US spec Turbo. Last week the radiator fans were working but today they weren't. Last week I had blower fan problems but that got sorted (I think I shorted a wire for the stereo). The fans work with a direct feed so I know they are OK. I also was able to use a spare battery and get the fans running from the relay socket (terms 87b and 87). However, when I jump the otter switch, no fans. Fuses are all good, relay seems good. I got the engine up to temp and did a continuity check on the disconnected otter switch and it was good, so I am thinking the otter switch is ok. I am now thinking it's an AC circuit issue and power isn't getting to the otter switch from the AC Thermistor Control Unit. FWIW, my AC system is currently inop, no gas. The fan fail light doesn't come on either. Attached is the cooling fan wiring diagram. Any help appreciated.