Steve4012

Hi Gis, I haven't posted a completion to the thread because it's still not right. I think the minimal tolerances of the first clutch kit from outer release bearing to inner clutch splines caused the complete mis alignment as originally posted but maybe it wasn't the only fault. I've since fitted a different pressure plate and bearing (matching characteristics as required) and the clutch engages and disengages correctly. However I can still feel a judder through the clutch pedal sometimes, only when I'm pressing the pedal, even though the clutch does work. I also have a squeek at tickover which disappears with the slightest touch of the clutch pedal, suggesting the release bearing but it feels smooth and quiet when manually turning and is brand new. I didn't want this so I've taken it all apart again. The way I'm thinking is that there is no excessive crank movement and the engine is recently rebuilt so that's ok. The gearbox was fine before removing first time, so I'm completely going through and checking everything in between the two. The only thing that hasn't been renewed is the flywheel so I've had Pete at PNM grind that for me. I've just got that back so over the next couple of weeks I'll systematically check and refit it all and go from there.

I've read some reverse switches, the one with the reverse wires in the back of the gearbox, are oversize and make the car jump out of reverse. Have you renewed this? If you have it may be the problem, my new one was sent with a shim to have less intrusion into the gearbox to rectify.

Are you planning to fill somehow or change the roof completely Wayne?

I've read that our gauges should run at 10v? Apparently the original voltage stabiliser switches off and on to regulate an average 10v from 12v over a period of time which isn't ideal. I've ordered one of these more modern variants to see if it helps my erratic fuel gauge. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282642726457

Mike, I believe it is not 27mm depth of fuel but the surface of the fuel is 27mm from the top of the jet stack. This is how I measured mine but I'm happy to be corrected.

Looks good Martyn. I see you're London based, I'm near J7 of the M25. Can I ask who you used for paintwork and if you would recommend?

Great to hear Fabian! 👍

Here's a pic of mine on removal. They're located on the one the pump cover screws and the other end as you say to the inlet manifold nut.

Thank you Roger, that's really helpful 👍

I would be interested to hear details of the power steering conversion as well!

Just thought I'd add to this thread as it's now solved, in case anyone else has the same trouble. I received no charging from the alternator on start up but I discovered that it started working fully when I exceeded 3000 or so revs. I also belatedly noticed the battery light did not illuminate with ignition on. The 'excitor' wire (the small brown and yellow wire) was not attached to anything. I put this on the post on the alternator and the battery light now came on with ignition 🙂 but stayed on and still no charge unless revved 😖 After a lot of messing around, I then spotted a spade terminal at the bottom of the alternator almost out of sight with another post terminal so put the excitor wire on there and bingo, light on with ignition, light off with engine start and full charge straight away. Incidentally, the post terminal I tried first which didn't work is in the same position as the correct one on my 81 turbo so it's very easy to conclude the alternator is duff and not notice the correct connection underneath at the bottom of the alternator. Hope this helps someone.

Not sure but with the new clutch problems I've had I wouldn't rely on anything from my car in that respect! ☺

Can you not just remove the gearbox mounts by the two small hex head bolts, insert bolt and replace?

There's a good chance the Nylatron washer will fall off when you retract the gearbox and if you're only pulling out enough to insert the dowel you won't know if it still on or not. When I removed mine it fell between the flywheel and friction plate.

Is that definitely the right way round for the fork clips Fabian? I thought the ends might locate into the cut out on the bearing collar. Maybe doesn't make any difference though...

This is my '85 turbo. It has Ac if that makes a difference? Not the best angle I'm afraid.

Hi Tim. 18mm was the amount of movement on the pushrod. I have the correct 22mm of thread showing from the lock nut.

It's clearly marked gearbox side and was correct. Yes fitted properly and greased splines and a small coating on bearing surface too. All packaged up and will be sent back to SJ and see what Steve comes back with. 7.3mm larger spline diameter between old and new with both off the car in a relaxed state seems a big difference.

Good point. Not sure about the measurements when they're both bolted on but now I've removed the new pressure plate it measures 56.3mm at rest. The old one was also measured off the car at rest and was 49mm so the gap between the two has increased to 7.3mm larger diameter hole. I've spoken to Steve at SJ again. He still suggesting there's a gearbox issue but as the car was perfectly fine prior to this he's asked for it to be sent back. There's play in the bearing collar into gearbox but not dramatic and is expected and I think combined with a now very small tolerance from splines to bearing face it fails.

Reply from Steve at SJ: 'That’s interesting but I really do not think it is the problem. I have sold loads of the covers. I think there is something causing the bearing to be off line'. I would appreciate your views...

Could you measure od of the bearing and the gap between the splines and let me know please Fabian?

That's right, straight fingers, round bearing and vise versa. I'm OK on that front. Thanks.

Thanks all for your input, it is much appreciated. The gearbox is back off and I hopefully have an answer. Both bearings measure the same at 58mm OD. The gap between the splines is indeed smaller on my original pressure plate. 49mm as opposed to 52.7 on the new one. So I have an overhang of 4.5mm either side on the old set up and only 2.65mm on the new so barely on the outer edge of the bearing. I'll email Steve at SJ the pics below and see what he says.

Ok thanks, I'll crack on with removal then if it's viewable from inside clutch housing.

Many thanks. Is the release bearing tube and housing tube viewable by removing the top cover plate?