rjbp

Still waiting for the dellorto book , I must have missed something during the first strip down and will have to do them again as they are not right . Starts with a lot of pumping and is a long while before I can push the choke in , think it’s the idle thats' the problem as adjusting the idle screws makes no difference to the revs at all even after several turns on both carbs , both must be blocked but certain the idle jet was clear when I reassembled .

Surprised no one answered but the most common grease nipple thread is 1/8" BSP , suggest you take one out and go to a bearing suppler who should have most of the different types , a garage should have a stock also .

Got a bleeder kit , bottle and non return valve but a vacuum is created when you lift off the peddle and draws a bit back in , a gentle pressure in the reservoir should work or push it back up the nipple as suggested but take the pipes off the master or it will fill with old fluid for a while .

Removed the rear feed pipe and attached an airline and nothing came out of the bleeds at the back so have a blockage , next job is to drop the diff to service the rear brakes so will sort the blockage then . I removed the pressure differential valve thinking that might be the blockage , I now know how it works and doesn't cut off the flow if there is a imbalance , a piston moves left or right and works a switch but fluid can still get thru to front and rear . I cannot see how this unit can re-set to centre as there are no springs , the piston will remain left or right until there is an imbalance in the opposite direction to bring it back but will probably end up the other end of its stroke . I've been in engineering for 50 years and have worked a lot on hydraulics but this has got me scratching my head , even when bleeding its possible the shift this valve over . I must be missing something here .

Hi John . Slackened the in feed nut on the differential valve and got fluid , tightened it up and slackened the out , nothing much , pain to get at but will take it out tomorrow . Couldn't get an exact master replacement but Lotusbits suggested a Excel one , it's longer and outputs are on the opposite side , the front output is nearest to the servo on the old but according to the Excel layout it's the furthest so connected as that but don't know if that's correct?

Hi all and need a bit of advice on how to bleed the brakes on an Elite. Has been standing for 12 years so is getting full make over . New Master Cyl ( changed it for an Excel , an original not available ) exchange callipers , new flex and other pipes . Bleeding the front went Ok but cannot get any fluid out of the rear ( master cyl level just goes up and down as pump the peddle ) . Got a bleeder pipe with a non return valve but thought it might be pulling air back past the bleed nipple thread so put some ptfe on the thread but still no fluid . I have been thinking is it the pressure differential valve stuck one side and blocking off the rear , but can it go that far to block ? Going to try slackening the pipe nuts either side of the pressure differential to see if fluid is going in but not coming out . Any other suggestions I could try ? Richard

Found this on the net but other sites mention piston rings and valve guides that might need attention . THE TRUTH ABOUT UNLEADED TO : MARQUE-BY-MARQUE GUIDE ADAPTED FROM "THOROUGHBRED & CLASSIC CARS" MAY 1998 There are many good reasons why this shouldn't happen, but it will: now we need to know how to run our classic cars. It's not as bad as you might think. For most of us, there will be no need to take any action for many years. During extensive research for this feature, we found no consensus of opinion on what can and cannot, should and should not be done to classic-car engines when four-star finally disappears. Don't believe opportunist mechanics who claim that because your car is over 20 years old, it has to have $$$-worth of conversion. Many old cars need no conversion work at all, while others can be converted. Equally, don't believe those who say that pre-war cars are OK because there was no lead in petrol before the war; modern unleaded petrol is very different from pre-war fuel - it burns at higher temperatures, and hard-driven pre-war cars can still suffer. This guide should help you decide how to keep enjoying your classic well without breaking the bank. THREE CHOICES: MECHANICAL Installing higher-specification valve seats/valves plus, usually. It is best carried out in conjunction with a planned decoke or engine rebuild. Some engines are easier to tackle than others, but very few are impossible. It is essential that the work is carried out diligently - poorly fitted valve seat inserts can come loose and wreak havoc within precious old engines... ADDITIVES The additives used (usually sodium or potassium based) do not afford as good protection as lead, but are better than nothing. It will be the same octane as premium so retarding the ignition will not be necessary. Oft-the-shelf additives are unlikely to be better: chemists worldwide have been trying for 20 years to find an effective alternative to lead -they're unlikely to find one in the next 18 months. DO NOTHING Cars already driven on leaded have a "lead memory" that can last for 20,000 miles before valve seat recession has any effect. Cars with the softest valve seats can continue to run indefinitely without modification if driven gently. Ensure your cooling system is in perfect condition with the correct thermostat, re-route fuel lines to avoid vaporization. The vast majority of classic-car drivers will never need to do anything more.

In its history it had a rebuild in 88 and wonder if it was converted to run on unleaded , no way to tell without the head off , not much unleaded about in 88 so doubt if it has or could have beed converted .

I spotted this very same book a few days ago when searching on the web for tuning advice ,so looked on ebay and got a copy for £18 , should have it mid week .

Hi Dan . Thanks , better exploded than view I have , a lot clearer and can highlight each part and get a large picture of it . Looking at a Eurocarb service kit there are a lot less o rings than in the kit I have , looks as though I have more rings than I need . Thanks again , Richard

Fitted the new alternator as the old one stopped charging again , now getting 14+ volts at the battery ( car volt gauge says 13 ) with the engine running so should be ok now and ignition light working as it should . Think the Volts are nearing the top limit as a few web sites say 15+ could boil the battery and ideal is 13.8 to 14.2 . Now need to have another go at the carbs , spiting back now and again , runs better with a touch of choke so must be a bit weak , had them on the bench and fitted a service kit but have a few very small o rings over . Replaced the o rings on the top of long jets in the float chamber and other obvious ones , is there a diagram showing what is on or down each hole as the exploded one I have is difficult to determine the assembly ? Had what look like rubber swarf in the bottom of one carb so must have been a disintegrated o ring from somewhere .

Haven't done anything , just started to work so could be a poor connection as I'v had a few . Will fit the new one when it arrives .Working on getting it ready for an Mot and working on the brakes , going to drop the diff to renew the brake parts .

Defiantly charging , also getting about 13 at the battery with engine running , wasn't getting that when the ignition light didn't come on when turning on before starting up .

My alternator is working again ( but have a new one on order ) don't have a seperate regulator as it in the alternator . Ignition light working as it should now and battery meter shows 12 + volts ( only 11 before ) .

Measured it 3 times , made certain I kept the rod vertical and square to the piston , defiantly 3” . I’ve had a engineering company since 72 and have now retired , made structural bearings for bridges , turbine casings , multi stage gas compressor castings . Although retired I can’t leave it alone so have set up a machine and wood shop at home , smaller way not the 2 meter diameter I used to do .