Kia ora,
Sorry this has been such a long time coming but as promised here is a, hopefully final, update.
In the end I ended up replacing the condenser, expansion valve and receiver drier. Once we got in there it became apparent why the second compressor failed.....a lot of swarf in the system. Yes those hemispheres in the compressor should be attached to the 'pistons' but have smashed off! The compressor was absolutely destroyed inside.
Massive thanks to Anthony and the team at Norman's in Dunedin. If you need a fix on the south island of NZ he is your man!
I've put up several photos which hopefully will be of help to others in the future as there were a few other things that came up along the way.
As indicated by agentdr8 everything is accessible with removal of the front clam, although a lot of hoses need to be disconnected to wriggle the airbox etc out of the way.
The air/heaterbox (part containing the evaporator) itself was not well designed, it kind of sits at an angle allowing water to accumulate in it. If you ever have a damp smell I suspect this could be a source. On mine one of the drain holes below the windscreen was blocked so probably an excess had drained in. The evaporator was consequently pretty corroded, so took it out and cleaned.
Another reason was that the housing around the evaporator has 4 drainage tubes but they all have a rubber valve closing them. On mine none of these had been opened (well one was kind of) so they all got snipped open. Also drilled a couple of 3mm holes in the bottom of the angled housing to help further.
Due to the water the plate against the TX valve was also corroded so was replaced and backing cleaned/resurfaced.
Getting the housing of the evaporator airbox open was also a challenge, there is 'secret' screw inside the rubber bung that needs a long reach screwdriver to access.
The last thing we did before reassembly was add a finer mesh behind the grill to try and stop future stone damage of the condenser. Looks just about okay but dont really notice it once installed back on the car.
Lastly, the captive nuts on the front clam broke away so we had to fix with a couple of washers.
With an oil change, break fluid change and anti-roll bar bushings replaced it was ~20-25hr of labour. A lot of this was getting the air/heater box out as had to disconnect several hoses to the radiator and then refill/bleed them all.
thanks again for all of the advice to allow me to get to this stage!
Pete