PPH

Thanks for your valuable input. I was hoping there was an alternative to the splitter but I will be looking for an extended one in the near future then.

Thanks for the input! Did you perceive any improvement besides the looks?

Learned something 👍🏻 But then I saw the price 😢 ... I’d say that is something between daring and audacious... Are there any tried and tested aftermarket options? I saw some people installed the Lotus Motorsport ones PN ALS9Y0017 which is single not double. The Reverie ones look to crude to me, I guess I would be stopped by the police every time I will drive the car. Eltech also recently took some single canards on their catalogue. And then there is the Winace / Eliseparts option that seems attractive price wise but I am uncertain about the functionality. Any feedback from those who installed any of the listed options or maybe alternatives thereto?

Merci @rallyesax I did not think about looking for Cup parts in the non-Cup section 🤨

After playing around with an extended front splitter I decided to stick the stock one, mainly for cosmetic reasons. This being said, I would like to increase the front downforce, especially at higher Autobahn speeds, which is why I started thinking about some front canards. Can anyone who tried them out please share his experience, do they provide a tangible benefit? Also, I was not able to find the original Lotus part numbers on De Roure. Can anyone help me out? Many thanks Patrick

Thanks, I appreciate the positive feedback.

While that is definitely an easy solution and may work for a powered subwoofer I personally would not recommend it as it potentially puts too much current on very thin cables that were not designed for that. While this is unlikely to happen, these might overheat, the insulation melt, cause a short or whatever. This will definitely not work with a an power amplifier worth that name and I would recommend either a direct wiring to the battery (my favourite, as you leave the car‘s wiring alone) or use the jumper posts like MrP_ suggested. As the effort is comparable, I would go to the battery - mandatory for a power amp and highly recommended for a powered subwoofer.

Are you looking to install a powered sub or a separate amp+sub? If a powered sub, do you have any specific model in mind?

Depending on your MOT, clams and suspension you might get approval for 215 on the front and / or 285 on the rear. I have Michelin PS4 205/265 and am happy with my usage profile 😀 Should I be tracking, I would try Semis on a dedicated set of rims and stick to what combo I could find.

On Fast Lap they tested an Exige S. At that time, the Race Pack AFAIK was optional, it became standard with the 350 Sport and it is firmer. My humble opinion is that if you do not track the car, the Race Pack is a fine setup but if you track it or do slaloms it might be adviseable to change springs and dampers. A Geo is alwys a good thing to do; as I live in Germany and do a lot of fast roads with long turns like a less „nervous“ front and increased castor. But anyhow in the end I am the limit, not the car.

Finally, last step was the subwoofer install. I had built an MPX enclosure for a JL Audio 8W6v3 but ultimately settled for a JL Audio fibreglass enclosure hosting a 10W1v2. After fitting an spacer (powder coated aluminium) I was able to fit a 10W1v3 that offers higher XMAX and better power handling. I also replaced the alumium cover in the center of the car for the RHD drive one as I did not lile the look of a square box (subwoofer) being partially hidden by the triangular shape of the LHD cover. After tweaking the amps DSP, I have to say that I am happy with the final result. I think I am done with the ICE 😀 Lastly, I cut the original carpet and had it piped for an OEM look.

I can only comment on the Eltech Bootlid but it definitely bends when the gas struts are installed. Being able to install the left gas strut only means that the gaps between the left and right side would result asymmetrical. I actually was told by my dealer that the current production Exiges only have the left damper. Anyhow, I built a static support with a 6mm aluminium rod that is too weak. I am now assembling a support with an 8mm stainless steel tube. And if that doesn’t work, I will use the Lotus solution.

Battery without charge control: And with charge control:

In order to compensate for the extra weight of the audio equipment I decided to install a LifePo battery. I designed a plug and play battery holder that was 3D printed in Carbon Filled Nylon and was finally delivered today:

So you need either the relay or the resistors along with the new tail lights, correct?