B.R.

I didn’t want to leave it because it makes an incredibly annoying noise and it’s not down in the bulkhead that I could lubricate, it’s the front of the grommet rubbing on the u joint and didn’t fancy lubricant dribbling into the footwell, I also imagine the lubricant will do it’s job for about 5 minutes and then the squeaking will occur again but I could be wrong. I asked this because as I stated I didn’t experience the noise on my previous Elise and have never seen any pedal box pictures of a foam grommet they have always been neat, low profile rubber ones. It seemed like someone just put a random bit of foam there. I’ll try a bit of lubricant if the foam should stay there. I appreciate the help

Hey guys, Does anyone have this in their Elise? My previous sport 220 didn’t have this and from pictures of other Elise’s steering columns, I can’t see any foam that leads into the bulkhead. Anyone have an idea of why it’s there or any negative effects that ripping it out might cause? FullSizeRender.MOV

Never mind, sorted it - I wasn’t thinking properly, the battery posts are nowhere near the battery so there was no risk connecting both terminals. Unlocked the car from there then opened the engine hatch and jumped it with another car. Took it out for a long awaited drive for an hour. Felt good to be back in it. Cheers

If I have a battery charger with jump leads attached, do I just connect the positive and negative up or do I need to find a way to ground the negative. Also have normal jump leads which I know conventionally require you to ground the negative. Was unclear how to proceed with the lotus using service panel posts so have left it. again, any further advice welcome! I have found so many posts sort of referring to similar things but nobody seems to get clear answers or they find another way to open the engine bay as there were other methods for previous gens. S3 Elise seems to have the same setup as gen 2 exige rather than any previous elises.

Thanks Dave, will give this a go later!

It turns no problem, it just doesn’t unlock the car. I read a post saying that you can only manually open the car if you manually locked it. Not sure how true this is but it seems to be that way in this case.

Hey Guys Slight issue - the other day when I turned the Elise off the radio and dash lights were still on. I started the engine and turned it off again but the lights stayed on. I thought it odd but figured it was just something I hadn’t noticed before. Turns out it wasn’t right - I now have a flat battery to the extent that the central locking doesn’t work. On top of this the manual key doesn’t open the car. The only way as far as I know to open the engine bay in order to get to the battery is the release from behind the passenger seat but have no way to get in the car. Anyone have any ideas?

Ah cheers for that, I suspected as much but thought I’d check. Yes probably a good idea to keep the number plate as it is for advance warning

Hi all, Apologies if this has already been covered but could only find info relating to exiges or older elises. I am in the market for getting a sport 220 and I will soon be moving to somewhere with underground car parking. This means there is a ramp. Just by eyeballing it, it looks similar to, maybe not quite as steep as a standard multi-storey car park ramp. My question is has anyone had any issues with the front (number plate) scraping in multi-storey car parks. I know the angle of approach of the cup 250 is 8 degrees. Is the 220 sport roughly the same as the number plate sticks out a fair way forward and low. I also believe (but I could be wrong) regulations generally state that parking ramps shouldn’t be a greater angle than 6.67 degrees. In theory it should be okay but has anyone had any real world experience. I was also wondering whether anyone has come across a smaller number plate plinth (mount)? The one on the Elise seems very chunky and forces the number plate forward a fair amount.

What do we all think of this colour?