Dave Ledwitch

Thanks all. Fuel pump it is then. Dave

Hi everyone. Should be a simple one. I have not started my engine for quite a few months now and want to crank it over without firing to circulate some oil. What is the best / easiest method to do this? disconnect HT leads or disable fuel pump? Thanks Dave

Thanks Guys. Useful to know that a new one has some preload on the spring. I think I will adjust mine to give a bit of preload before the rod starts to move and see if i get an improvement. I think as long as the gate starts to open before 0.6 bar i should be ok. Dave

Hi. I could do with a reality check from those who have measured the Wastegate Actuator setting. I set a rig up to check this which worked fine, and I got around 0.4mm movement at 0.6 bar. However I did not expect to see movement until around 0.5 bar as I understand there is a return spring in the module that keeps the gate firmly closed to prevent any leakage. I started to see movement (ok, only 0.05mm) at pressures as low as 0.1 bar with this being quite linear to the 0.4mm spec at 0.6 bar. After this the gate opened quite quickly so that at 0.8 bar the rod had moved 2 - 3 mm. Is this consistent with other peoples experience? Dave

For 34, MAP, as I have a GT3 this is located by the ECU. It is not as described in the manual I have, it only has 2 spade connectors. Freescan Sensor diagnostics gives 2.35V and 0.9 bar but no change when I apply vacuum or pressure. I cant measure any voltage or resistance accross the connections at all. Does anyone know how this should work and how to test it? How can freescan measure 2.35V but not my voltmeter? Please disregard this bit. I was looking at the Boost gauge transducer . DOH! I have found the real MAP sensor now... Dave

AARRGGH! Idle is still fast, despite a brief period where i thought it was fixed. I have started to get error codes now. 22 & 34. For 22, TPS, I ran freescan at idle again and got 0.45V but TPS of 5%, even though the accel cable is slack. How can that be? I thought there was a dead zone, 0%TPS until 0.7V? Is the sensor faulty or the ECU? Does anyone know how to check? For 34, MAP, as I have a GT3 this is located by the ECU. It is not as described in the manual I have, it only has 2 spade connectors. Freescan Sensor diagnostics gives 2.35V and 0.9 bar but no change when I apply vacuum or pressure. I cant measure any voltage or resistance accross the connections at all. Does anyone know how this should work and how to test it? How can freescan measure 2.35V but not my voltmeter? BTW I also looked at the Baro Pressure sensor and this is working but giving low voltage according to the manual. Manual says it should give 4.8V but is giving only half of this despite baro reading 0.9 bar. Testing with vacuum as per the manual gives half voltage readings. Did Lotus change this sensor post 96? Regards Dave

I have success!!! Hot idle back to normal. I find it difficult to believe but when the engine is hot the new silicone vacuum hose leaks on the intake manifold connection. I have swapped out the silicone hose for smaller diameter vac line and fitted small spring clamps to all of the joints. I am amazed that such a small leak would have such a big effect! Just in time for Castle Combe. See you there. Dave

Bibs Be careful with the throttle adjuster at the engine end. All too easy to overtighten and break it!!! I have noticed there are adjustable stops for the accelerator pedal movement. you can use these also to remove slack in the cable. Dave

So I replaced the IAC and....... Still the same! Idle from cold comes down to 1070 fine but when hot hovers between 1500 & 2000rpm! I decided the next thing was to look for a vacuum leak. As I have recently fitted a dump valve and replaced the existing vac hose with silicone i thought I should check here first. I fitted the original vac hose and bingo! hot Idle is back to normal! So there is a leak in one of the silicone hoses or the dump valve itself. Will investigate further and let you know what i find. Well done Wayne. Seems to be a vacuum leak. Dave

last week I saw a row of cameras on tripods on a M4 bridge with the white van conveniently parked out of sight! Take care. Dave

Vac motor buzzes and stops. If it cuts in again it is not for a while, maybe after 30 seconds for a short period. I have a vacuum pump & gauge so will check vac hoses with that. The fast Idle is not stable but does not splutter or hiss. In the meantime I have ordered a new IAC. Should be fitted for Castle Combe this weekend. Dave

I have now checked the accel cable. slack when hot. I looked at the memcal today and the chip was loose in the holder. Pushed it back in firmly, reset IAC but the problem is still there (when i saw the loose chip I was sure this was the cause). I will focus on the IAC next. Dave

I had another look at the freescan file and noticed that the numbers in the BLM cell column change. When I get 19, the idle is ok. With BLM at 1, I get 2000rpm With BLM at 4, I get 1500rpm. I also got readings of 8 & 9. All i did to promote the change was to blip the throttle. I have reset the IAC and ECM again and now get BLM cell readings of 19 (ok) and 4 (1500rpm) Does anyone know what determines the BLM cell contents? When I changed the chip, i didnt solder the carrier in. Could this be the result of intermittent chip connections? I cant find any vacuum leaks, which would be the obvious answer. Dave

Thanks Bibs. I did do an ECU reset when i put the new chip in. Got a backfire on first attempt to start! I am thinking that the the accel cable may be getting tight as the engine gets up to temperature so I will slacken it off properly first. Dave

Thanks for your suggestion Olaf. I dont think my GT3 has a EBPV though. I will return the car back to std i think and fix it from there if the problem still exists. Embarrisingly I have broken the throttle cable adjuster and have locked it in one position. Is there any throttle cable adjustment potenital at the pedal end? Dave