Finlandese

Interesting ideas. Unlike a lot of action cam stuff, my preference has been mostly towards 24fps for a cinematic effect. On this video I was in a hurry, so the raw footage is all over the place. Driving, filming, recording sound and droning in a hurry is not a good idea... It was a cloudy and pretty depressing looking day, so I have cranked up the brightness and contrast quite a bit. The end shot is overexposed on purpose for an artistic effect. I shot a lot of this with the Insta360 One, which limits the frame rate to 30fps, if one wants to have fullHD crop for a 16:9 export.

Well, that´s precise enough! 🙂 Thank you. I now notice, that the current spec of the MacKay have some differences in dimensions, compared to the picture you have in your post. The bolt spacing is the same, but diameter is 11mm vs. 10mm. Overall width is 109 vs. 114mm. Maybe I´ll get the bolt holes filled and some material added to the ends, to strengthen edge of the new bolt holes.

I prefer the design of the XJS-S to any 2+2 e-type. The most direct comparison would be the series III v12. The manual conversion was a dealbreaker to me. I wanted to enjoy the v12 sound and the three speed slush box robbed a lot of opportunities for that. I understand that as a new car the automatic XJ-S has been an effortless magic ride, but I wanted mine with a hint of the TWR race cars. The Simply Performace conversion itself is a proven package, but I had it done for me, as I did not have an access to lift. My car is originally a Dutch car and my summer wheels are period correct 16" Arden wheels. I will be selling my XJ-S and the Maserati, as I need to reduce my fleet. I would like to have a classic car more room for my now almost adult children. At the top of my list are Eclat Excel, Quattroporte III and the Subaru SVX. So I might take you up on the trade proposal! 🙂 Yes, I am a nut case.. 🙂 P.s. No salt on these roads, as it was too cold for using it! 😄

I guess I will start slotting them now, as I just got a delivery from AIMS for two mounts.. 🙂 Does anyone happen to have the exact measurement available for the attachment bolt distance? My Esprit is currently hibernating about 500km away from me.

Well, XJ-S sure is the definition of a reverese Tardis, but the back seats are suprisingly good. Worked fine for my kids, until about mid teens. Excel has amazing packaging and ca fit adults in the back. When I was young, the famous buttresses of the XJ-S bothered me. Now I love them. One factor that is different over here, compared to the UK, is the context. Here they are rare, therefore sleek exotica. In UK, I would imagine, there are a lot tired examples in circulation (and in front gardens).. 🙂

I replaced my Excel with an XJ-S. I wanted to experience a manual transmission V12. The manual transmission conversion really transformed the car. It´s a fantastic GT! Now that I need more room in the back seats, I am considering going back to an Excel... 🙂

Had some fun drifting on ice with my other classic... https://youtu.be/LHLeFzqoaDM

Five cylinder turbo and project being built in Sweden, so I’ll put my chips for a Volvo turbo.

Jonas, have you considered stiffening the chassis in some way? You will be putting quite a bit more torque to that pre-turbo chassis. Love the project, btw.

Thank you for your reply. I am very tempted to try your solution. 35 years with no issues is a pretty solid proof of success.

Very interesting. Did slot the holes inward or outwards?

Henry, Yep, only the RM-610 requires an amp. I Was just told the RM-610 connector wire colors on a facebook group. Red live , yellow ignition live black negative, then 4 pairs of signal output channels for the amp input side. Good enough for to test if it works. 🙂

Thank you, Dave! That is the perfect answer for the RM-310! Now, do the RM-610.. 🙂

I have managed to get a hold of two Panasonic cockpit roof stereos. Unfortunately I don´t have the amplifier for neither. The previous owner managed to get by with no external amplifier with the RM-310, and I have a pretty good clue about its connector wiring (only seven wires, of which four are for speakers). Does anyone have info on the connector wire colors for these?

Changed the diode, and now everything works perfectly! 🙂

The strength of the Lotus community, as that most owners work on their cars by themselves and are happy to share that knowledge with others. I write a column for a Finnish classic car magazine about maintaining my fleet, while not being a know it all mechanic. The purpose of this column is to encourage others to to do likewise. To not be afraid of getting their dream car. I found this good write up from the wedge engineering. http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/Headlamp horrors.htm Off to buy a diode (or two) tomorrow. 🙂

Silly f*cking me again... When I tried the headlight motor at first I connected only the three terminal connector, as that is the way I always have secured the pod motors, when working on that area. When I connected the two single port terminals,the passenger side motor worked perfectly on the drivers side. So it was the motor, and after opening it, I found out the diode for the green and brown wire loose inside the diode. Next I need to figure out, is this a hen´s teeth diode, or one that I can find from any electrical component store here in Finland.. Thank´s Steve for your advice. 🙂

I took the functioning one off and hooked it up to the non-functioning side connector. No reaction at all. So, my problem seems to be with the power supply to the motor. I have been suspicious of the change over relay connections, but the I should be able to drive the pod down withe flash function. If I drive the pod down manually and the reverse the upward movement when taking them up again, the pod will retract. So it is getting power for getting down. It’s just not doing it from the full up postion or goes down only a small fraction of the travel.

A bit of lunchtime tinkering: Managed to get a small downward movement from the problem pod. It tries to get down but stops. This happened after using connector cleaning spray to the motor connectors. Must try harder... 🙂

After finishing my mass sacrifice of fuses, I am faced with another problem. The the pop up headlights work logically from the light switch and the flash function works too. Except that the drivers side (LHD formerly RHD) will not come down, either by the light switch or the flash function. It would seem to hint at the direction of the headlight motor itself. When driving the pod down manually, there does not seem to be any unusual resistance. Has anyone had a similar experience?

A friend came to help me and pretty soon we found out a silly mistake that was burning up the fuse. While trouble shooting pop head lights erratic behavior, I replace all the relays under the bonnet. I turned out that I had replaced them headlight motor relays with the wrong type. As I did my trouble shooting by removing one relay at a time, the fuse kept burning up. This time we removed them all and tested the continuity one relay at the time. The pop up headlights still did not work, except via flash function from the stalk. I replaced the correct (from SJ´s) new change over relay with the old one. Now the fuses stays intact and the headlight pop up, but retract only part of the way. I can drive them down with flash function from the stalk. The new change over relay has thinner blades that the original one, so that might be the reason why it did not work correctly. Another problem was the drivers side front and side indicator. This turned out to be an internally cracked wire. So, pretty close to getting all to work.. 🙂

Thank you for the replies. I have the wiring schematic. I have been going around the system taking off relays related to the number one fuse. Both headlight motor relays, horn relay, the heated rear screen relay and fan fail relay. Cleaned up the front grounding terminal, disconnected the pod motors, light switch, hazard switch and the turn signal stalk. Today´s another day.. 🙂

Staring to run out of ideas.The number one fuse in S2 burns up immediately when connecting battery power. The glow is quite pretty, if one is fast enough to catch it... So, the pop up headlights wont pop up. The lights themselves work fine. Motors aren´t the problem (tried with them disconnected). Just before I gave up for the day, I noticed a visp of smoke from the exposed turn signal assembly, while trying to flash the lights. I tried again with the stalk removed, but fuse burned immediately. I have truoble shooted the light and hazard swites. All the relays that I ca think of. Do the esteemed forum gurus have any ideas?

I tried to attach a photo of my ultrasound wash set up with the hub carrier, but ran in to photo size problems.

Before the realization. Ultrasound wash was a very useful in helping to unstick the lower link stud.