Freescan log, would appeciate some input

[Techspy]

So I am having 2 issues.

 

1. the car idles high at times while driving but I can blip the throttle and it will go back down. I have removed the throttle jack capsule (EBPV has been removed) and verified that there isn't any binding etc. I also just cleaned the throttle bodies and butterflies but they didn't seem to be the issue either.

 

2. The car is very smelly at idle, running rich I assume. It has no cat and I have checked for air leaks etc.

 

So here is the Freescan log. I am not very experienced with it but here are a couple of things I noticed.

 

1. It is always in Closed Loop. I understand others have noticed this with their Esprits with no problems.

 

2. The boost gauge in Freescan is way high over what I am seeing but understand Freescan shows about one bar higher than normal. My dash gauge was showing about half what Freescan was showing.

 

3. It seems a couple times the idle and desired idle were different. It seems that as I am coasting it is a bit higher but once stopped it comes down.

 

Questions I have are;

 

1. Does the A/F, Rich/Lean and O2 sensor numbers look correct, especially at idle?

 

2. Does the IAC look correct, especially at idle?

 

3. Does the wastegate in relation to boost look like it is correct?

 

Here are the specs mods;

 

It was the first start of the day and let it warm up for about 5 min before started Freescan. It was about 60f during the drive.

 

Car has chip #3 installed and larger secondary injectors, Blow Off Valve, No Cat.

 

Freescan Log here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=5733914&d=1367079064

 

Thanks!

Edited April 27, 2013 by Techspy

[Vulcan Grey]

it looks like your IAC is at about 48-50 when the car is idling when warmed up.  I usually want to see log data from cold, up to 80 C without touching the throttle or reving the engine.  This lets me see if the IAC is set correctly.

 

First, are you sure that you don't have any air leaks in the intake manifold?

 

If no leaks, then it looks like the minimum air rate bleed screw on the throttle butterflies is out of adjustment.

Using freescan you should warm up the car, without reving the engine, and then carefully adjust the minimum air rate bleed screw (the protected screw parallel to the ground in between the throttle butterflies).

 

While watching freescan IAC counts, turn the screw with a flat head driver very tiny turn <1/16th of a rotation. and wait for the IAC count to stabilize.  You should adjust the screw till the IAC reads between 20-40 counts at idle with the engine coolant temp at about 80C.

 

The green arrow, NOT the red arrow.

[Techspy]

Great info, thanks Travis.

 

What are the side effects of the IAC/bleed screw being out of adjustment? Could it cause the rich/smelly idle? How about the high idle at times?

 

So, when I say no vacuum leaks I mean I have checked all I can see. I guess I should test all joints by spraying some ether around all the seams etc (Is there a better way?).

 

After that I will try as you suggest.

 

Thanks again.

[Vulcan Grey]

the main problem/symptom with the IAC being high, is a stall after a cold start the first time you touch the throttle, and poor drivability near idle until warm.

 

The Esprit is always rich smelling, they all are.

 

You have a few high points well above 128 on your BLM vs BLM Cell graph, which indicates the ECU believes you are running lean at times.

 

Your boost (MAP) pressures look normal for Freescan, which as you know is a bit off, but they are normal...

 

Your O2 looks good, not going lean with boost, actually looks rich there.

 

Btw, A:F in freescan is desired, not actual.

 

Your waste gate does seem to open a lot, could be how you were driving at the time though.

[Techspy]

Well I have double checked for leaks around the hoses and manifold (using starting fluid) and found none. The car runs really well and doesn't show any predisposition to stalls at any time.

 

So, I guess I will try the bleed screw adjustment. I will also get a Freescan log like you describe (no reving etc from cold start)

 

Thanks

[Vulcan Grey]

yeah, good that you have no leaks.  Next step is like you said, freescan log from cold to 80C (drive too if you like), let it idle with out touching throttle. PM me, and then if the IAC is out of range, you can do the adjustment of the minimum air rate bleed screw.

[Techspy]

So I started the car and let it warm up without touching the throttle and checked once again with starting fluid and found no air leaks. The IAC settled down to around 56. I then started to adjust the bleed valve (anti-tamper cover not present so it has been adjusted before I suspect) and got it down to around 40 but accidentally bumped the throttle by hitting the remaining throttle jack lever so I stopped adjusting at that point. I will try again tomorrow.

 

While researching the bleed valve and IAC setting on here, I found a post that mentioned having this incorrectly set could affect the power of the car during normal stop and go situations like at stop signs etc. So after making the adjustment I then went for a drive (hit the wrong button so I didn't log my Freescan log). Maybe it is the placebo effect but it seemed to be much smoother and stronger at low rpms while taking off from stop lights etc. By this I mean just normal driving from a light etc and not trying to rev the engine for a fast launch. I have noticed previously it seems the car struggles a bit driving like that but just chalked it up to a high revving turbo with a lightened flywheel and race clutch. But, I could swear it was better with the adjustment I already made.

[Vulcan Grey]

car will drive even better with IAC between 20-40!  56 is still high enough to cause drivability issues in my experience.

 

Definitely let it settle for a while before calling it good.

[Techspy]

I did another tuning this morning and got the IAS down to around 25 but then after revving the engine it was holding a high idle (about 300 more than desired), so I backed the bleed valve back a bit and it settled right down. My IAS is around 28-30 now. Hopefully she will run even better now! I will test drive later today. Here is the Freescan log.

 

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=5763237&d=1368023281

[Vulcan Grey]

Couldn't download the file, not found.  I'll PM you my email.

[Vulcan Grey]

Ok, looks like the IAC stabilized between 20-40. 

everything else looks good.

 

Time to go take it for a drive and log data, with all gears, some full boost, and some 100% throttle. 

[Techspy]

Thanks. I took a quick drive last night (didn't log it though) and all seemed good. Time will tell if the occasional high idle is fixed but I am pleased with the stop and go performance increase. It may have even helped the smelly/rich idle a bit

 

Thanks again!

Edited May 9, 2013 by Techspy

[Techspy]

I am still having the high idle. Here are the details;

- It only starts after driving awhile.

- When it first starts, I can blip the throttle and it goes back down but after a few more minutes, blipping the throttle wont make it go back down and sometimes makes it raise a bit.

I recorded Freescan and found the following;

- Initially it shows a TPS of 0 and I can blip the throttle and it goes back down.

- After blipping doesn't help, I can see that the TPS is showing 1 instead of 0.

- When I got home it was still doing it so I checked and found that the throttle cable was not taught and had enough slack and was not holding the throttle open.

- I pushed on the butterfly lever that the throttle cable is connected to, trying to push it toward the closed position but it didn't change the high idle and the TPS stayed at 1.

- I turned the car off for about 5 seconds and started it again and the idle was perfect and showed a TPS of 0.

- I recently disconnected the battery for a day to reset the ECM tables but it is acting the same was as before.

On other note, since I have set my throttle bleed valve to get the IAS down to where it should be, when I start the car and let it warm up, I get a pretty high idle for about a min then it drops down. It did not do that before adjusting the bleed valve. I am guessing this is the way it should be now.

 

Thanks for any info.