Look what Q has brought for us. Isn't it nice ?

[jonroberts]

Jon,

What is your suggested order of reassembly? Ie wires, binnacle, instruments dash etc?I never took the car apart! Also how does the dash fit on, is it bolted?

 

Ok Fabian, so here goes from memory :

 

The dashboard fits onto the steel crossmember with four bolts underneath at the front and secures to two small L shaped brackets on the outside underneath edges in the forward door area. There are two self tappers under the binnacle on a small separate trim piece and on the glovebox that go through the fibreglass and into the crossmember. You will find the holes to guide you. The glovebox lid also provides two securing points on its hinges.

 

For the instrument panel refitting, this is how I did it. 

 

From underneath the dash, route up the wiring (left and right switch panels either side), the large heater vent hose, the speedo cable to the left hand side and the heater control cables to the right hand side. Use the holes in the top part of the dashboard.

 

Fit the large steel cluster support bracket using 4x short bolts and spring washers onto the welded threaded spots on the crossmember

 

Push in the instrument cluster into the 3 retaining 'fingers' at the bottom and engaging the top three last. Fit the instrument panel mask (steel sheet with perspex cutouts) and make sure the trip counter knob engages properly. 

 

Push on the multi way edge connectors carefully.

 

Push in speedo cable end to the speedometer and lightly screw down the speedo cable knurled nut.  

 

Fit the indicator and washer stalk assemblies to the steering column but leave them loose for now. Connect the multi way plugs.

 

Dry fit the steering column cowl and adjust the stalk position so the stalks operate without moving the cowl.  Remove cowl, nip up the screws on the stalks, refit the cowl and screw their halves together.

 

Fit the Lucar connectors onto the switches and test each one works as well as the indicators, wiper, washer, flasher and horn.

 

Fit over the binnacle and secure it with 2x bolts into the support bracket with large washers to spread the load on the wood ! Route the switch wiring and vent hose while you position the binnacle.

 

Fit rocker switches into the two steel side plates and offer up the panels to the binnacle.  For a painted binnacle like yours I'd be tempted to use masking tape on the binnacle to limit scratch damage.

 

Fit heater control cables to the RHS panel and adjust so the vents open/shut 

 

Fit and screw down the binnacle vent.

 

Screw the switch plates onto the binnacle. Push the top L shaped long plate into the top of the main instrument panel above the speedo/rev counter. This tightens the whole thing up.

 

Test everything again and when happy, fit the steering wheel.

 

Job done. Easy huh ? Not as bad as it sounds, honestly.

[Lotusfab]

Thanks Jon, will print that and use for reassembly!

[jonroberts]

New door shell top metal trim strips, bonnet stay (couldn't be bothered to spend hours refinishing the old crappy ones!), rubbers and a pair of new seatbelts arrived from SJ today - only ordered yesterday.  Hopefully those are the last items I need to complete the car.  [Thanks Steve if you are reading this].. 

[stephenwhyte]

Looks absolutely fantastic so far - can't wait to see it finished!!!

[vintaylor]

Love the colour Jon!

 

Did you get a replacement wiring harness or use the existing unit?

 

Also does anyone know if I need any clips for the rear windscreen chrome surrounds?

[jonroberts]

Vin - I used the original loom but replaced a lot of the Lucar connectors. Grafted in small new sections like the console switch wiring which was in poor condition using the correct colour coded wire from Autosparks.

 

For the rear windscreen trims, just glue them down onto the glass discarding any of the original trim clips on the body. There is a Lotus service note on this. You will need the two top and two bottom corner pieces though - do you have them ? If not I can measure them up and photograph for you.

[vintaylor]

Hi Jon,

 

The sprayer removed the rear chrome trim for me so unfortunately I am missing the corner trims.

 

Would you have a photo of what these should look like?

 

I believe SJ's might have a set.

 

After cracking the front risking I didn't want to remove the rear screen so the sprayer took off the surrounds and cleared of the silicone to get the best finish possible.

[marcbria]

Amazing work, the quality and attention to detail is awe inspiring!

 

Are you retired by any chance? Because where do you find the time!

[jonroberts]

Brian - Retired ? Unfortunately not. I'm doing all the work on one, possibly two full days at the weekends and documenting in the evenings.  I've had the interior out twice before, so its become almost second nature now !

[Paul Coleman]

Hi Jon,

 

The sprayer removed the rear chrome trim for me so unfortunately I am missing the corner trims.

 

Would you have a photo of what these should look like?

 

I believe SJ's might have a set.

 

After cracking the front risking I didn't want to remove the rear screen so the sprayer took off the surrounds and cleared of the silicone to get the best finish possible.

The lower rear trim corners are obsolete

 

Paul.

Edited March 11, 2015 by Paul Coleman

[jonroberts]

Hi Jon,

 

The sprayer removed the rear chrome trim for me so unfortunately I am missing the corner trims.

 

Would you have a photo of what these should look like?

 

 

Here you go. Measurements included. I suggest you copy the angle from your windscreen/bodywork in each case.

 

Two at the top of the windscreen

 

 

Two of these at the top of the tailgate glass

 

 

Two of these at the bottom of the tailgate glass

 

[Lotusfab]

Yep S and J only have the Top ones, will have to make the bottom ones also!

[vintaylor]

Hi Fabian,

 

can we organise a group buy if you are going to reproduce the bottom ones?

 

So does the clip sit underneath the chrome?

 

I have a feeling the chrome trim was redone in my car at some stage because both front and back never had these clips

[Lotusfab]

Hi Vin,

Was going to cut the shape out of a flat piece of stainless then file and fit, using a hacksaw. I already have the top ones from S and J.

[vintaylor]

Hi Fabian,

 

Do you have the old ones to use as a template or are you doing everything from scratch?

 

Do you know if the front windscreen uses just the top clips and not the bottom?

[Lotusfab]

Hi Jon,

When you did the floor felt,1/2 inch. Did you take it up and over the fiberglass box sections on each sill, or did you cover just the floor? Also when you put in the front windscreen, what stops the lower edge of Dinitrol splaying out over the dash when the glass is lowered? Thanks.

[Lotusfab]

Hi Vin,

Havn't had time to do the screens yet but when I do will post a detailed account, I have the Lotus service bulletin for windscreen fitting and will post this also. Think the top ones are the same front and rear, only the rear lower tailgate being different. I have the top ones and was going to use these for design and metal thickness, then measure the angle of the aperture on the lower tailgate. Will then scribe this onto stainless and file till fit is good. The pictures Jon posted are spot on, just the angle needs to be checked as all thing Esprit seem to be somewhat Bespoke!

You could install the trims just using sealant and no corner clips and hold the trims in position till it sets. You will have to bend the trims so there is no pressure on them. More difficult without the clips.

[vintaylor]

Cheers Fabian,

 

I've got a hacksaw but very much doubt the blade is good enough to cut through stainless steel.

[Lotusfab]

It's very thin, shouldn't be a problem. Have sawed and filed stainless bolts many times. Need a vice and decent hack saw with new blade. Will try making some when I get a minute and put on here. So busy at the moment all my progress is stopped.

[jonroberts]

So does the clip sit underneath the chrome?

 

 

The clip slides into a groove in each trim piece and holds the two angles in alignment.

Do you know if the front windscreen uses just the top clips and not the bottom?

 

Front windscreen has two clips only at the top.

When you did the floor felt,1/2 inch. Did you take it up and over the fiberglass box sections on each sill, or did you cover just the floor? 

 

The underfelt is shaped to the floor mat, just about 3/4" smaller all round. There is no felt on the side box sections.

Also when you put in the front windscreen, what stops the lower edge of Dinitrol splaying out over the dash when the glass is lowered? Thanks.

 

I used the applicator tip in the Dinitrol kit - forget the complex cutting instructions in the Lotus manual. It extrudes just the right amount of sealant in a triangle shape. Lean the tube inwards to encourage the tip of the triangle to lean towards the centre of the windscreen. If you use the 4mm spacers, then the sealant compresses into the body and hardly splays out at all. I only had one leak in an area the bead wasn't continuous and thick enough. Easily sorted after a leak test revealed it !

Think the top ones are the same front and rear, only the rear lower tailgate being different. 

 

Sorry to disappoint you. The top tailgate clips (A079U4058) are a different angle to the top windscreen clips (A079U4051F) and are not interchangeable. You can see the subtle angle difference in the photo. Bottom tailgate clips (A079U4057) are unobtainable and will have to be fabricated.

[jonroberts]

Had a day off work and fitted the front screen trims yesterday. All three trim pieces need to be shaped to match the profile of the windscreen by VERY careful bending, checking and bending until they fitted the screen with only a small amount of pressure needed to keep them in place. The verticals were the hardest to shape, the horizontal one needed less bending.

 

Paul Coleman pointed me to some nifty trim 'hold-down' tools and I got a set of 6 from eBay.

 

After cleaning the screen and the suction cups with a little soapy water, I stuck them on.

 

 

 

I used the same tube of 'MS Polymer Sealant' (Indasa 472637) that I used to stick the waistline trim onto the car because the data sheet said it was suitable for glass and metal and because I had some left over!  Cleaned the trims and screen with spirit wipe to remove any contaminants first.

 

Ran a bead onto the lip of the three trim pieces before sticking them onto the glass one at a time and joining with the clips. Not too much so it spills out, but enough to stick the two together.  Then used some strips of soft neoprene foam between the tools and the trim so as not to create any marks or depressions - its very soft. The tools allow an adjustable clamping force.

 

 

As its still cold (<7 degrees C), I'm going to leave it 48 hours before removing the tools, just to be sure the sealant has gone off and the trims don't slowly detach themselves.  If it all holds together then I reckon it will be possible to remove the trims with a scalpel without damaging them in the future.

 

[Lotusfab]

Hi Jon, that's looks great! Those hold down tools are great, do you have. An ebay link?

[jonroberts]

Search eBay.co.uk for "set of moulding suction clamps windscreen" 

 

There are 6 in the set which is ok for the front, but the rear has an extra trim so you could do with two more. I'm going to improvise on the rear, but here is a word of warning :  

 

DO NOT USE MUCH PRESSURE AT ALL ON THE REAR SCREEN.  PaulC cracked his glass when fitting the rear trims, BE VERY CAREFUL !!!

[Lotusfab]

Thanks for the advice, cracking the screen would not be good!

[jonroberts]

Update on the felt and carpet fitting using double sided carpet tape on the footwells - don't bother, its not good enough. Probably fine on smooth surfaces, but hairy felt doesn't stick too well.  Will try glueing the carpet to the underfelt and leaving them unglued to the floor for easier removal. 

 

Spent a lot of time yesterday refitting the instrument cluster and finding everything worked apart from the alternator (charge) warning lamp would not light with the ignition on. Not good because that feeds the alternator circuit and provides a small current to start it working. Without it, the alternator does not charge the battery. 

 

Pulled the cluster out and checked the PCB traces and bulb which were ok. Replaced two failed panel illumination bulbs while I was there and tested the Brown/Yellow (NY) wire from the cluster to the alternator - no problem there. Grounded the NY wire at the alternator and the panel lamp came on, so the suspect was the alternator. Sure enough, I removed the alternator and tested it, thinking the regulator or diode pack was faulty but instead found the rotor windings were open circuit so nothing I could do to fix that.  Luckily I had another Lucas ACR 18 'on the shelf', as you do, and fitted that. Problem sorted. 

 

So now all the warning lamps work, the battery charges and I can see the instruments in the dark !