EliteEV

You may already have this document on Lotus paint codes. Sable is on page 7. Lotus Paint Codes (2020_01_03 04_40_18 UTC).mht Thanks, Pete. I don't thank that even a drasticly shortend pinion shaft would fit through my apature. Besides, I hope never to work on the rack again!

These should show up now. Same order as the captions above.

Hi Brian, After reading your blog, I decided it was time to renew my front suspension. Turns out, it was well past time. After 50 years and 80,000 miles, everything was shot. I sent the steering rack to a well-known Lotus shop in LA in 2009, but it never felt right, so I rebuilt that too. (I ran into a guy on San Juan Island last year who submitted his Elite, which he bought new, to that same shop for an engine rebuild, and the owner sold the engine and transmission out from under him. He was planning on donating the frame and body to a High School shop class. I didn't ask why he didn't sue the senior shop owner). Since it seemed that you did everything right I emulated your process, right down to using POR-15 on all the parts. I got the steering rack rebuild kit from Steve Taylor at Lotus Marques, and most everything fit well. The bronze bearing on the right side is an excellent upgrade. I did have to mill the inside a tiny bit, but made short work of it with a friend’s metal lathe. I also rebuilt the calipers, including new pistons. I had the toe-in professionally set yesterday, and took a spirited drive on a beautiful, twisty coastal road today. What an amazing difference!. I’d say the grin factor has doubled! One of the most fiddly (one of my favourite British words) jobs was reinstalling the steering rack. The supports for the front battery rack preclude removing the rack intact, so I had to remove the pinion shaft to get it out. Of course, I had to do the reverse and reinstall the tube, then insert the top bearing and shaft, then the rack, then press in the bottom bearing. It took a while and some choice words due to the restrictive work space, but now it steers, corners, and brakes beautifully. Again, thanks for all the tips, including buying the Shankly spring compresser. It probably cost less than a rental, and was no doubt better. Happy Motoring, Scott Petersen P.S. I beg to differ about accessing the rear brakes from the back of the cabin. I've worked on those darn cylinders several times, and everything can be done from outside and inside with an access port. It's a pain in the butt to drop and reinstall the differential. See the last picture. Left side, showning painted caliper (high-heat POR-15) and new lower link from SJ. The original one was split on the bottom of the outside. Oh, and for other folks doing this, please do install the anti-sway bar before the vertical link 🤣! The reason I couldn't pull the rack out with the pinion shaft entact. Eight lithium batteries above that wood filler. Really bad caliper pistons. Kind of surprised they still worked. Rear brakeline access.

A couple weeks ago I measured the raised side joint on the body and ordered some 5/8" black, rounded (top-to-bottom), self-adhesive plastic to add some accent to my all-yellow car. What I did not do, to my chagrin, is measure the joint on the doors. Those are 1/2" and in places a bit less. Lotus's lack of continuity strikes again (several of us have large gaps at the lower passenger doors)! Has anyone else experienced this problem post-restoration? I'm contemplating either giving up on the trim, or getting all 1/2". The latter might look odd on the body sections. Scott

Thanks for the reply, Brian. I have ordered from both of them a number of times (as well as lotusbits, where I got a rebuilt transmission among many other things through the years), and Ken Gray knows me well! I'll talk with him about the trunion parts tomorrow.

I just read your entire blog, Brian. Very well done...I didn't know that brown could be so beautiful! I've attached a picture of mine. Acquired 15 years ago, in very poor condition, I converted it to an EV and did some subtile body modifications as well as renewing most of the running gear. I have some vibration at speed, so probably need to replace the trunions. Would you tell me where you got them? Thanks, Scott

Pete, mine is a 1974. I removed the original trim (black with a chrome insert) and tossed it. John, I saw this on the SJ website too, and it doesn't fit the bill. Thanks for the replies...more information on sourcing this will be appreciated! Scott

Can anyone point me to a source for a facimile of the Elite S1 side trim? I've gone 15 years without it, but now think it would look better with it installed. Thanks in advence. Scott, USA

That helps a lot, Pete. Thanks! I live in a mild climate, so A/C is not really necessary. In addition, if would decrease my range. A previous owner installed a sunroof which makes the cabin tolerable when the sun shines. Scott Scott's 1974 Lotus Elite (evalbum.com)

It did have A/C, Pete (502). I'll attach a photo of its current state; I'll be tidying up the wiring as well. Scott

Hi All. I just pulled my dash out to have it reupholstered, and was quickly reminded what a crummy job I did in that area when I went through the car 15 years ago. None of the ducts were intact then so I guessed on the proper routing, but they look bad and don't function well. I couldn't figure out how to get a duct from the air box to the driver's side vent; every bit of ventilation is welcome in warmer weather, so that one would be especially useful. If anyone has a picture or drawing of the ductwork it would be much appreciated! Scott Petersen

I believe you are correct, eclat22. Very tough to install, but will summon my inner pretzel and give it a go.

I didn't see the printed conversion instructions in the above thread, so will post them here. Yes, very worthwhile project...no more winking Elite! I made the brackets out of composite (foam core wrapped with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin). Hope this helps. Scott Headlight pod conversion (2020_01_03 04_40_18 UTC).docx

Hi All, I am beginning to install a Coverdale carpet set and am puzzled where some of them should be affixed. Attached is a diagram with the puzzling pieces of pile circled. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Scott

Sorry for the late post to your replies. Everything slows down in a pandemic! Thanks for setting me straight on the Ford/Burman rack, Pete. As some of you have noted, it's about 170 lbs (77 kg) over stock weight. The distribution is vastly different, though. Front/rear is 47/53, so it does understeer a bit compared to the pronounced oversteer of stock (so I am told). Still fun on the twisties, but I rarely drive it aggressively. Hope you all are doing well over there. Scott

Methinks that all the Federal models (and maybe European) had the Herald rack. I'm guessing because they had a LHD unit and the Burman did not. At any rate I like the idea of a slurry; thin enough to bathe the rack but thick enough that it doesn't leak out. Thanks for the reply. Scott http://www.evalbum.com/4524

Engine oil, gear oil, or grease? Just renewed boots and gaskets for the Triumph Herald box, and would appreciate knowing the recommended slippery stuff! Thanks.

Thanks for uploading these, Mike! They are very useful. Scott

Today I noticed a loud creaking sound while moving, both under power and coasting. It kind of sounded like the wheels working against loose lug nuts, but they were all tight. When I got home I jacked up the rear and spun the wheels. The noise occurred in the left rear, but I couldn't be certain if it was from the hub or the differential. Off with the half-shaft and brake drum, and it's clearly coming from the diff. A creaking sound, with the occasional squeak. Also some binding when I turn the stub. None of this happens when I turn the right rear wheel. I am hoping some of you can identify the symptoms and give me a clue on how to fix this problem. My Elite 502 shows 68K miles, but given the whine from the gearbox, the total lack of synchros in 1st and 3rd gear, and the fact that the engine was replaced before I got it, I suppose it's possible it could have turned over. I have no history on the car. I shudder to think I need to rebuild the differential; I've heard they are very robust. I dropped it during the restoration to replace the outer seals, and remember that was a real job. I'm hoping the collective wisdom at this site will give me guidance on how to proceed. I'm in the US, so shipping 100+ lbs of steel to the UK for a rebuild is not an attractive option. Thank you, Scott

Do you have an update on this, Mike? I'm considering doing this next winter. First and third synchros are gone and it whines badly. Thanks, Scott

I see it sold for £8,848!

Hadn't thought about the advantage of two relays, Michael. I'll stick with your plan. The wires on my motors have different color coding than yours...either a different year or because it's from a Federal car. I'm only fabricating and testing one bracket for now. If it breaks or flexes too much I'll beef up the next one in the necessary places. My car had a bolt head as a bump stop (the rubber is long gone), so I've ground that round and glued a rubber cane foot to it. Thank you! Scott

That is just fantastic, Michael! I've already procured the motors and am building this brackets...out of composite, since I have no welding skills. A few questions: - What is the length of the M6 rod? From the picture it looks to be ~170mm - Are you confident in the angle for the bump stop? In test fitting the bracket it seems closer to 35 degrees from vertical than 65 - Any idea of the amperage draw of the motors? It seems to me that one relay could be used for both motors Thanks very much, Scott

Any luck with LotusBits?