benjamincalleja

The correct part number for this item is the current eBay part number I just bought. 291562502346. It's available from jaguar under their part number and is identical in every way even the manufacturers part number is tda832, jaguar call it CAC3939. This is still available and is not the purge pump itself it's the 3 way valve generally used in fuel metering applications to direct fuel use from LH tank to RH tank (the third setting being neither, shutoff). In the lotus application it has the novel use of being an 2-setting on/off valve, opening when you switch off the ignition and coolant temp more than 70c so that the purge pump may purge the plenum of hot air. Otherwise it is electronically closed so plenum pressure is not lost. 100 dollars for whoever can find the actual purge pump current part number or nearest replacement, seemingly a "foredit" part.

Old thread but people who come across it should see this too http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/53931-foredit-white-part-either-side-of-engine-bay-what-is-it/

I never ended up touching this thing but I just noticed the thing is stupidly hot to touch (similar to grabbing a mug you've just poured boiled water into) after I shut the car down. It makes no noise. Fire hazard much above the fuel tank lol?! I'm not sure it's meant to get hot when it doesn't work...when electrical parts get hot and don't work I'm pretty that means they are stuffed...shame that Maplin part number is wrong this part is loooong out of stock

Agreed, just read up on it....the item is returned for refund...

Hmmm...so I add nulon octan booster to the tank and the sound disappears...so probably was light knock due to bad fuel. Troubling thing is I always buy BP 98ron. A full tank lasts a couple of months though, does it degrade over that time period?

completely stoked, took my esprit to the weigh bridge and it came in at 1.30 tonne with me in it. Accurate the the nearest 10kg (ie could be 1295kg or 1305kg and would round up/down. Outside these figures it would have read 1.29 t or 1.31 t). I then went and filled up the tank to see what was missing, 57L. So my 89 turbo with me in it (70kg) and a full tank of fuel (extra 57kg to the 25L that must have been in there) plus my 6kg engine cover (which I left at home) gives a total car weight of 1364kg. With me in it! That means the advertised kerb weight of 1290kg was true! I thought they always underestimated the esprits weight? The only weight saving mod I have in the car are aluminium fuel tanks. Actually I guess that means the original kerb weight would have been 1310kg, not sure how much weight I saved with the new tanks (20kg?), but still, pretty damn close! I always saw "realistic" figures for the kerb weight to be 1386kg.

Can't I drill out holes like the below? (Taken from the fantastic no25 s300 rebuild thread). I just bought this.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/331673630269?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D331673630269%26_rdc%3D1

Interesting, could be but wouldn't I hear that all the time then not only under boost?

Thanks dude that's my issue though - It could be a few months until Dan and I can catch up (even though we live a few suburbs away in Sydney, that's life!) I was thinking this could be a few months quick fix? Makes me wonder if I even need to fix it any time soon, the exhaust obviously makes enough boost even with the leak as I drove it today it's fine as far as I can tell, with all windows down I don't notice the fumes haha. Tough with the cabin sealed, though full aircon (mine works somehow?!) and fans it keeps most of it out. I'm still worried about the full boost engine rattle noise but when I think about it it's done it for at least a year now and nothing has come it it, even had it on the dyno and power is fine and no suspicious coolant goo so no head gasket worries, compression test is within spec and close % of each cylinder. Maybe it's like a diesel and just rattles a bit at boost? My new Tiguan diesel makes the EXACT same noise under acceleration - even if it's knock I've been smashing the esprit this past year and nothing has happened. When I say smashing really I mean each drive is 80% normal and 20% full blast........#maybeimjustparanoid?

Until I have time to do this what do you think about a high temp sealant around the join. This one attached is a sodium silicate (liquid glass) product good for 1000 degrees. I would have to have the car on boost for ages to reach that which I never do. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-Muffler-Tailpipe-Sealer-80mL.aspx?pid=129932#Recommendations

Seen here, the left join where the manifold meets the extensions piece (why the hell did they have this in the first place instead of one piece?!)

UPDATE. turns outs it's not the exhaust manifold gasket per say there is no carbon buildup there and I can't feel any huffing around that area when I stick my hand down there from cold. But when I put my hand next to the join between the manifold and the extension piece (I have the original early two piece exhaust system) Lo and behold I get very strong huffing and my hand ended up like this after two seconds (the black dots splattering, could feel them flecking out)...so I guess it's good in a way because the hot air won't be burning my exhaust valves but how the heck do I fix the join between the manifold and the extension piece - is that still engine out? Can I just use exhaust sealant or do the bolts just need tightening? The mating joint is covered in soot. Could this also explain the engine rattling noise I get on full boost?

that would be great Dan, when would suit you?

Hey guys ive noticed that at peak boost (and even beginning mid boost) my 89 turbo engine starts making a rattling noise, imagine someone slowly crunching up a small 2cm by 2cm piece of cellophane in the engine bay continually...best sound analogy. no loss of power or shuddering etc, just that noise.....engine knock or could it be related to my exhaust manifold gasket leak? If I keep the engine off boost there is no noise at all, smooth revving. I can post a video with a couple of 5th gear acceleration but its kind of hard to hear.

Ok confirmed the leak is coming from the manifold near the turbo. From between the manifold and the block it seems. Any clues on how to fix? I imagine the block isn't warped is it possible the manifold is or could it perhaps (hopefully) just need tightening???

Nah even steel is similar. http://members.optushome.com.au/terrybrown/HeatTemperChartEtc.html, 1200 degrees on steel would be nearly white hot.

true but this is a cherry red on a static engine not moving through air, air would cool so accordingly it would be one category lower probably dark red, max 814 degrees c According to Chapman's "Workshop Technology" the colours which can be observed in steel are:[1] ColourTemperature [°C]Temperature [°F]FromToFromToBlack red[2]426593 7091010Very dark red59370410101210Dark red70481412101408Cherry red81587014091508Light cherry red87198115101708Orange981109217081908Yellow1093125819102207Yellow white1259131422092308White1315+2309+or conversely http://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/know-temperature-when-metal-glows-red/

Yea true I. Enter get onto it. But surely the manifold doesn't reach 1200 degrees c, in Jeremy waltons book in the esprit it said 950F (520 degrees c?). Either way I won't worry too much about it yet the smidgen that leaks isn't going to do much I won't be losing much in the way of back pressure (yet!). I'll add it to the list along with the psycho speedometer and stuffed bushes front and rear.

Hey will a 300 sport gear change shifter reinforcement plate that strengthens the chassis around the hole for the gear stick fit an 89 turbo? And still allow me to shift? Just aware the later cars had reduced shifting travel between gears...

I see what you mean if the manifold itself had a leak it would smoke continuously but it stops when the car warms up meaning it's probably the manifold gaskets fixing it to the block. Do I need to fix that though, it doesn't seems to do anything other than smoke a bit when cold, when warm the engine is fine?

nah this is from completely cold it's not using oil it sounds fine at temperature. Only done 60k miles and compression test is above 135 for each cylinder and within 5-6% of each other. Nothing seems to be dripping onto exhaust it only gives off smoke in a cloud when the choke is put on but perhaps the manifold isn't properly sealed and coming from there? Is that a problem that "needs" fixing? No other symptoms otherwise. It seems to go away when the engine is warm presumably because it seals back up under heat?

Anyone?

No nothing like that they are clean and I imagine if there was leaking oil it would smoke continuously like it did when the valve head end cap o rings were going and leaking into the manifold. Easy fix and of course smoking stopped but this is just when you put the choke on, single smoke puff.

Hey guys just uploaded these to youtube, when i start the car I noticed that even though both tanks have been changed to new aluminium ones with all new connections i still have a cabin smell (in fact the smell is more exhaust-y now rather than fuel). I started the engine up and noticed that there seems to be an exhaust leak, especially noticeable when you manually put the choke on, a single plume of smoke comes out from beneath the heads not sure where exactly. It doesnt continue, if you leave the choke on the plume disappears. See the 2 x videos (easiest to see the smoke if you select 1080p), what do you think this is? Bit of piston slap there too when cold...goes away when hot though so not too worried.

The gt3 un28 box was different, different ratios to suit the engine but the axle ratio meant it cant really take more than the 300nm torque the gt3 has (un28 is not suited to 2.2L engines due to the earlier torque development in the 2.2 engines, compare the gt3 vs 2.2L torque curves). At the end of the day the un16 was the only gearbox up until 1993, meaning it was fitted to the turbo and the SE and the SE had 280hp and 354nm torque. In theory, you could increase your gt3 up to that limit with no worries if you were using the un16 box but with the un28 gt3 box it literally may break beyond 300nm. If you can increase the power and keep the torque the same the un28 you have would probably be fine within reasonable limits.