Benmac

Apologies if this is common knowledge but I failed to find anything. The rubber lanyard on my Evora's fuel cap had degraded and was on the cusp of breaking. From Lotus you can buy the whole cap assembly but not just the lanyard. Did a bit of digging and managed to suss out that it's a JLR part. Same basic cap set up is on loads of Jags and Land Rovers. JLR don't sell the lanyards either but you can get them on ebay or even better I found these chaps who are a LR specialist who make their own. For a couple of quid more than ebay that seemed a better bet. It arrived, fitted in a couple of minutes, perfect. https://www.powerfuluk.com/jaguar-xf-fuel-filler-cap-replacement-tether-strap.html

Yes, think going to the local trimmer is likely the best bet and as you say, not expecting them to take it to bits will likely curry favour.

That's interesting. May give them a call. If they did a full set as it were I'd be definitely interested.

Well, I ended up going with GY Asymmetric 5s all round (correct standard 18/19 sizes and specs although not the Mercedes specific types). Got a screaming deal on them via a friend of a friend and I do like them on another car I have so thought it was worth the risk. Early impressions are very positive. Compared to the P zeroes it's quieter while also managing to be slightly less crashy over bumps but simultaneously more positive on the steering with a little bit more weight to the steering. Feel seems a notch up too but that might just be as they're biting more. These improvements seem outwith the general difference you'd expect between worn old, hard tyres and brand new ones.

I'm mulling over whether to do a proper retrim of the interior of my car this coming winter. It's a 2011 S without the premium pack. It's generally fine but I truly loathe the crappy "cheesecloth" type grey fabric lotus have used all over the lower parts of the cabin and in places it's got a bit baggy for want of a better term. Also it's a bloody nightmare to get dirt and marks out of. While the likes of Allon White are to some degree a "goto" place for Lotus retrimming they're a fair distance from me and I'm happy to do some of the work myself. Not the actual trimming bit but the dismantling and rebuilding. DIYing it I can tidy up a few things as well like the old Alpine GPS unit that's sitting in the dash defunct after I changed the head unit. There's a really decent classic car trimmer only a few miles from me so my plan would be to dismantle myself and "feed" them bits to work on. So, in terms of dismantling the interior has anyone here or anywhere else done a decent thread with pictures of doing it to help me along the way? I have the service manual which seems pretty comprehensive but I'm just wondering about getting as much info to guide as possible.

I tend to get mine done by the chap who does refurbs and other powder coating and welding bits and pieces for me. He's very good and fitting and balancing. From a quick look it looks like the front size PS4s are out of stock at the moment everywhere but they do exist. I've asked a couple of places to find out when they're expecting any.

Are they? Awesome, yeah, that sorts it.

Firstly, sorry, yet more tyre discussion. I need to change all 4 of mine. The rears are worn and the fronts are old and have hardened badly. It's an 11 plate S with the standard 18/19 combo. My usage is fast road stuff during the better weather. Obvious choice is a set of Michelin PS4. An alternative is PS4S at the back and PS4 at the front due to the size lacking for PS4S up front. However, I'm just investigating some alternatives. In another few forums I frequent (BMW, Merc AMG and Leon Cupra) the GoodYear Asymmetric 5s get a lot of good press and actual reviews of them are good too. In some circumstances there are claims they're as good as PS4s (it's generally a discussion of either / or on the other forums). Obviously the cars in question are different to an Evora. Also I have spotted the Yokohama V105 which again gets decent write ups although isn't as popular on forums (that may just be as they're newer and a less obvious brand perhaps). Pricewise the alternatives are pretty similar but both about £80 - £90 less than a set of PS4 all round (the PS4s/PS4 combo being a little dearer again). So, I'm just wondering if anyone on here has used either of the alternatives on an Evora and if they were any good?

Yeah, the wishbones would need just a proper clean up. It's properly scabby in a couple of places say on the hub carriers. FRom what I know the first owner used the car then parked it up in a small garage for a good while so I'm wondering if it was a bit damp in there. All is sound, just doesn't look pretty. The bit that's perhaps most annoying is the bottom of the dampers where the coating is properly flaking off. I'm kicking myself now for not buying a set like you did (I nearly did). There are some decent used sets on ebay so if that is cheaper than getting mine refurbed (they're fine in terms of use, just don't look nice) that may be a goer.

As is poular with Elises has anyone done a suspension refurb on an Evora, stripping it all down and getting bits and pieces like wishbones, hub carrier etc blasted and coated in some way? In addition would it cost the earth to get the standard dampers refurbed similarly (i.e. just cheaper to buy new or barely used replacements)? I ask as I was changing the ARB drop links on mine last night and was slightly annoyed at just how scabby bits of it are (my car is a 2011 S with 33k miles on it that has been pampered since I had it and whilst cared for wasn't babied by its first owner), especially the hub carriers, springs and bottom ends of the dampers. Might be something that I look to do over the winter. Would be something I'd ideally do myself (getting bits coated etc professionally) so doable in my garage with the car up on stands with clams off to help access (and allow more minor strip, paint and rebuild of bits and pieces of bracketry etc).

Well, it's up and solid. Did it with a couple of boxes of paper and bits of plywood on top to stop the jack point digging into the paper. Feels nice and solid. One useful point is that once one side is up it's very easy to lift the other side. One of the drop links done too which was only a pain on the last few threads on the top bolt. Only nuisance there is I seem to have lost my crow's foott adapters for the torque wrench so more ordered to arrive tomorrow.

LoL, got it. I can see a) how that should work nicely and b) how it could go wrong! As it's just the front I may just go with the rear points to jack and then get something under the front points to hold it up.

Oh good point. I just looked at picture of them and indeed yes, there's the 5mm hole. So, how'd you get your car up like that?

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I'm trying to get a definitive best solution and can't quite find one. I want to lift the front of my car (2011 S) in order to swap the ARB drop links as one has a tiny bit of play and I may as well do the ARB bushes while I'm at it. So, I need to lift the car. As such, what do you think would be the best way with the equipment I currently have (couple of trolley jacks, axles stands). I'm thinking jack it at the rear jack point as that will lift the front as well (rear jack point also easier to get to). Then, once up put an axle stand under the front jack point. With that last bit in mind I have fairly normal axle stands. Are they OK to have the car sit on at the jack point or maybe it needs a bit of plywood or a hockey puck (I have both). Failing that and perhaps easier, just bung a box of paper under the jack point as I used to do with my Elise. As an aside regarding the drop links, is there anything odd to remember when doing them? I assume torque specs etc are in the service manual.

Spoke to Bibs.....................(or rather he called me)......................... sorted

Still nothing here, got the confirmation email on the day of registering last week so thought all was good. Now, Bibs is obviously working hard trying to sort it but the process does seem a little bizarre to me, Lotus surely aren't so hard up they need to rely on a volunteer to manage all this for them?

No problem, yes it comes in the black shiny plastic as it is. It has a sticky cover that you can leave on until it's in place then peel off to avoid marking it. I think it's 2m of the tape stuff per side to give you enough slack. It's nothing special that you can't get elsewhere and I beefed mine up with some foam double sided tape.

Pretty easy, I can't remember exactly but a couple of the bolts are a little tricky to get to in terms of peeling back the rubber seal around the door but I think I managed it start to finish in about 10 minutes. The service manual shows where all the bolts are. Most are visible just as is. The only tricky element is getting the new one on and aligned without unnecessarily stressing it as you need to slightly bend it to get it in.

I'm not sure why but Roy Hodgson driving an Aventador is hilarious.

Yep, all doable just by removing the knob and lift tube. I've yet to have had time to look at a better solution although I've driven it a fair bit since and all is good. 1. Assuming you have the standard leather knob - Prize the lotus badge off the top. 2. Undo and remove the bolt that is exposed (10mm socket IIRC) 3. Pull top of the knob straight off. Do not twist it, it's keyed to the lift tube. May be a bit stuck but it will. come off. Be careful as this releases the tension on the spring which you can then remove too (side note, if not already there put a very small screw in the top of the spring - it was a service bulletin update to make sure it stays centred) 4. Lower half can now be slid off too revealing the lift tube and you should then be able to see what's going on.

It works!!!! Scanner arrived earlier. Just tried it and after a little bit of bashing about (I'm not 100% sure how I did it) the light is now off. Driven up the road and back and it has stayed off. I talked to it by telling it it was a Daewoo Epica. Only because that was the first type that came up of the several possibles listed on Lotus Talk.

Right, fixed it but it's left me going "Hmmmm". What was happening was that sprung "tabs" on the plastic lift tube adapter (part number 35 on the diagram) weren't engaging well enough onto the lift tube itself. The adapter sits inside the lift tube and the tabs stick out slightly above and hook onto the top of the lift tube. So, with these not engaging you could pull the tube up without it actually activating the mechanism. To be honest it is an amazingly slight connection for what it needs to do. I have managed to fix it as I had a load of nylon shoulder washers in my bits and bobs box. One of these with the flange machined down a bit then cut along it's length (it was a bit too small to fit round the shaft) was thin enough to slide in between the shaft and the lift tube adapter enough to force the tabs out so that they engage. All seems OK now although I'll take it apart again after a while to check. I fancy a new knob and the MY12 one requires a new lift tube. That won't be a bad plan as there's evidence of someone being in there before such was the slightly chewed thread in the alloy where the knob bolts down onto it.

Ta, yep, worth a try. I do have the standard one though. It's the fact there seems to be very little resistance in the lift tube that makes me think something has become detached and that it is definitely at the gear lever end rather than anything more untoward. It happily goes into first. I shall get it back in the garage then do some poking around later this morning

Jumped in the car just now (2011 S) to go out for an early drive as I have some errands to run and it won't select reverse. The lift tube seems to have no resistance in it and doesn't spring back down if you pull it up. Anyone else experience this? Likely to be some issue with the lift tube? Spring broken or come adrift? Bloody annoying but at least it has happened at home.

Useful stuff. Thanks gents. I'll try with that Foxwell one I think. Was there a thread on one of the US forums with the trial and error work? Aha found it. Seems worth a try as it'll be useful for other stuff too.