Wedgetable

Follow up to this... I ordered one from SJ and it doesn't fit. Apparently I have an unusual -- but not unheard of -- smaller version of the ignition switch, often found on Triumphs or MG's. Still haven't found out which one.

The ignition switch on my S1 has been getting very hot (100C+ with an infrared probe) but not the wire itself. It looks like the contact connected to the thick red power going in, feeding everything, is the culprit. Additionally, occasionally it won't start because the contacts inside the switch probably aren't doing their job, and I have to jiggle the key a bit to make contact with the starter circuit. Has anyone tried to open up and service the starter switch internals? I've seen it done on old american cars, but this one has little metal tabs that are bent in on the bakelight switchbody to hold it all together. I'm concerned that those tabs will break, not bend if I force them back. Failing that, i guess I'm ordering a replacement switch -- I recall that something like a TR6's is a suitable match if I can't find one for the S1. Advice? Thanks!

Got under there and took a closer look at mine and according to this similar thread , it looks like I have the older, crappier version of the arm/bushing combo and will need replacing entirely anyways.

Replacement certainly sounds like a good idea. I thought these bushings were supposed to go all the way through the control arm, so I'm a bit unsure about what's going on here. The other side looks like this, and is much tidier. Also, the other side doesn't seem to make any noise.

I've been having an occasional knock in the front end going over bumps and sometimes just turning or sometimes when the weight shifts in the car. Looked under there and noticed that it looks like the bushing has crept/popped out of the lower control arm -- is this something that can be pushed back in with some silicone lube and persistence? Am I going to have to compress the spring prior to undoing that bolt if I have to? Any advice is much appreciated!

Kind of blurry screencap from the video, but it shows the vent lines going into the ARO valve.

Hi Brian, I don't have pics handy right now, but those clear vent hoses connect with the anti run-on valve, which is connected to the carb side face of the air filter box.

By sidelight, you mean the signal lamps embedded in the bumper? I thought about that... maybe getting hold of the eurospec lights with the amber and clear sections, if they'll fit in there? I guess eventually I'd try to change the whole front bumper to the eurospec one and that would take care of it.

Thanks for the awesome reply Tony! I remember those Cibies now... I had them on my old Scirocco. Those lenses are beautifully made. Mounting them to the spoiler -- I wonder if they'll bounce a bit from the thinner material there. I think I'm still considering the Phillips DRL's because of that, and I can tuck them in back farther. I just noticed that the Phillips don't look like their mounting hardware is on any sort of pivot or gimbal, so that could be a problem mounting to the spoiler angle.

zipbyu, andrewp 1989, OnAir, fsrowsell, Mesprit87, Mityrare, aerobat, Kam, MD911, 73JPS, Mark T-C, Wedgetable Hope to meet some/all of you sometime soon.

I would like the added safety of daytime running lights, but I don't think I want to be popping the main lights up all the time -- too much motor and linkage wear, making the flakey Lucas electrics work more than they need to. I thought I'd get some Phillips 8x led drl's to mount just under the bumper, since they don't draw too much current and are discreet rectangular things. (There's also the exhorbitant fancy new Phillips.) Then I thought about getting period fog lamps and replacing their halogen bulbs (H1's ?) with the LED equivalents. Are there examples of S1's with period-correct fog lamps? I've got a local guy selling some NOS rectangular Hella 550 yellows, but I think they're more 80's looking, unless they didn't change much from the late 70's. Also mounting them... the mounting bolt for those things is usually a thick (3/8"?) bolt -- does one just drill a big hole under into the body tub and access the other side from inside the boot? Thoughts?

Thanks guys. I got both mounts replaced and wrapped the one on the exhaust manifold side with insulating wrap. It looked like the PO put in the engine mounts the wrong way... I'm discovering a whole lot of wrong with this car that I didn't see nor was disclosed to me when I bought it.

Hi all, So my newly-rebuilt engine just went back in last week, and a new thing has come up after about 15 miles of driving... when I put the car into gear and try to give it some gas, the forward end of the engine is rising up out of the bay, so I figured one or both of the engine mounts is not doing its job. Just to comfirm what I'm looking at is the engine mount puck on the passenger side (NA) is separating at the plate so it's letting the engine go: Short video: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2zg822u%3E&s=8 This is not normal, right? There isn't another likely reason that the engine is rising out of the bay like that? The mount on the driver's side doesn't seem to be separating like that, but it is sliding a bit. The rearward mounts at the transmission look ok -- centered, not rotted. I just want to get an idea that I'm coming to the right conclusion before I get under there and try to replace that mount -- I found Tony K's great explanation on replacing the engine mounts. I've heard of the side closest to the exhaust deteriorating (mine looks good), but how common is it for the opposite side puck to come apart like that? Thanks for all your great advice!