Andyww

Yes thats right, when closed the water is diverted through a bypass route under the engine.

Never got mine to open off the car using that method. It was Pete at PNM who said the whole thing needs to be in boiling water to open and mine did open using that method. I think there are different temp spec versions.

Definitely get a solid state one. You can either make one using a suitable semiconductor voltage regulator or there are ready-made ones on Ebay. Its mounted to one of the instrument fixing nuts in the binnacle so you have to loosen the side panels, and move the main panel forwards to access it, going in through the right side. The earth to it must be good.

The clutches are larger diameter on the Turbo so these will be different.

Removing the thermostat should be a last resort, its a big task, but if you do, in order to test it you have to put the whole housing in a big pan of water and boil it up and wait a few mins. Even if its working properly it wont open if you simply pour hot water into it. Presumably you have bled the rad, it sounds like an air lock. The gauge can read high in this case as the sender can be out of the water flow so it is measuring the temperature of steam in the pipe instead. With the filler cap off try violently squeezing the left hand rad hose which can be reached through the LH wheelarch as this can sometimes dislodge air pockets and make a big glugging noise then you can top up. Jacking up the front or rear of the car can help also, and open rad bleed tap. If the air lock is really persistent it could be air getting into the system. These cars are unfortunately very prone to pinhole leaks in the cooling system if the aluminium pipes have not been checked/replaced. There are two versions of the Otter switch with different temperatures, manual covers these. but in normal driving the fans dont come on usually. Only when stuck in traffic, stationary. Infra red gauges dont indicate water temperature so I am not sure they are worth bothering with. Not sure why the gauge was reading 60 when sender in boiling water. Doesnt sound right but its wrong in the opposite way to expected. The gauges do go out of whack, even mounting the mechanical voltage regulator the wrong orientation can cause them to be 15 degrees out.

It looks like he has done exactly the same as I did, with the BBS wheels which was satin-black them and then have the webbed faces milled flat then the whole wheel diamond cut.

The ARB is the only thing preventing lower link front-back movement so it sounds like the ARB to link bushes, already mentioned or the nut on the end of the ARB has come loose. The service notes specifies a stupidly low torque for that nut, 6 lbft or something. If that is followed, it unwinds. It always seems to me that they made the spacer which fits inside the bushes too short. Using poly bushes and tightening up the nut tight, seems to compress the bushes too much until they are rock solid. I went back to rubber on mine.

Its on the connection to the changeover relay. Should look like this.

There is a differece in the current path when main/flash is being used vs dip, but cant see how that can cause cycling on one setting but not the other. Maybe the reason it does not happen on main beam is the voltage drop is higher on the battery so the motors are being less "driven". If thats the case it could be motor run-on. If either motor runs past the limit switch it will cause both to carry on running. Run on could be caused by two issues: The motor supplies are each earthed by a changeover relay when not running, which acts as a brake. If this is not happening it will cause this. Also the motors have end-float adjustment screws with locknuts on the end of the gear housing. If one of these has come unscrewed it will cause the braking effect to not work properly. Also has the system ever been rewired? If someone has wired it according to the Turbo Esprit wiring diagram in the service notes it wont work properly as there is an error in the diagram. In fact the results of the error would be pretty much what you are seeing.

The sills are quite high but no different to an S1 Elise.

My other car was driven by JayEmm in this video just released today. https://youtu.be/AVRL23HOMuc

Yes the mounting brackets for the standard Girling calipers.

A clean machine.

Thats an HC front spoiler so cant have been fitted until 1987 so definitely not factory.

There isnt a fuse or relay for the pump on these cars. Feed comes from ignition switch via the inertia switch. If all connections are OK its possible the pump is seized and drawing excessive current causing voltage drop. Is it running at all?

At Brooklands recently: A well-known Bond replica , my AZ-1 and a Honda Motocompo bike which folds up into a suitcase.

Thats correct about how it works. The mechanism on the caliper is just a simple motor which winds a threaded plunger against the piston. The controller initiates the motion and trips out when a certain current loading is reached. The same when de-activating but winds out the other way by applying the voltage reversed, for a specified time period. The caliper mechanism is far simpler than a manual ratchet or other such system. One of the reasons electric handbrakes have a bad name is the underhand way in which the car makers use it to lock people into using a main dealer for servicing. For example when changing the rear pads on a Renault I used to own, the official way is to take it to a dealer who connects to the ODBC and uses a special code which tells the controller to fully reverse the motor and wind out the plunger allowing the piston to then be pushed back. But the unofficial way which takes 2 minutes is remove 2 screws holding the motor to the caliper and manually turn the shaft fully until it stops, then refit motor. It would be possible to do the controlling by 2 buttons but it would rely on the driver not holding the button pressed for too long after the brake is applied otherwise the motor could burn out. So it would be best to use a proper controller now they are available aftermarket. So the only limitation on whether this would work on an Esprit is whether the calipers would physically fit. They are wider owing to the motor.

Sounds great if they will fit. Wire up to Wilwood EPB controller, remove entire handbrake mechanism and ceremoniously throw in the bin, buy new sill carpet and cover the hole.

Where can I get one!

But they did recently pay top whack to buy Chapmans Turbo Esprit back. They have been doing a lot of heritage photoshoots and featuring Esprit especially in promo material. None of this happened until quite recently. In past times they unloaded the Bond promo cars and the active suspension car, everything was cleared out.

Indeed, but in the Guigiaro context, did they really produce a car with the Turbo body mods as Justin mentioned earlier, which Lotus copied? Its known that they modified 25 S2's with their turbo engines. All of them had unmodified bodies apart from the addition of the word Turbo above Esprit on the side decals. There was a Lotus development car with stripped-out dash and a turbo rear spoiler seamlessley grafted on, which is mentioned in this thread: https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/92203-very-strange-pre-production-esprit-turbo-prototype/ It seems unlikely that B&C did the Turbo body first. Also if they used CX500s they would have had to get Compomotive to produce a custom set of 4-stud wheels, as Lotus later did.

But not the visual design. They did appear to use it as a start point for the engine upgrade though. The body and interior changes were all Guigiaro including the rear spoiler which Lotus had to "disable" by the small tweak on the top of the tailgate.

Although its worth remembering that the Turbo is still all his design, including the ruched leather trim.

Being involved with Hi-Fi and owning an early Turbo Esprit you could get into re-manufacturing Panasonic Cockpit Stereos

That would be me then I keep this handy guide for this type of situation: