Drew Pearce

Thanks for all your comments and starting the Barry's suggestion, I found the problem Note To Self Next time you remove the engine, clearly mark Oil Pressure & Water Temperature wires Water temperature to the oil explains the "glow" of the oil pressure Thanks Agin Andrew

Hi All I have an '87 HC Turbo Esprit Dom Carb Over the Christmas holidays, I replaced my oil cooler and oil cooler hoses To do this I also removed the engine and fixed a few other issues while I was in the neighbourhood Now, its all back together, the oil pressure is fine, but the oil pressure light "glows" (doesn't seem fully on) Using a multi-meter, zero ohms when off, and open circuit when the engine running. But the light is also glowing when I disconnect from the pressure switch I am hoping that:- a) the oil hose is not restriced (say, kink in the line) b) oil pressure gauge and switch use the same gallery, so I can rely on the gauge reading and not worry about the light c) that its an electrical issue, and not an actual pressure switch issue Some advice or suggestion on where to look for problems Thanks in advance Andrew

Hey Thomas / Andy, I have a Turbo HC, but according to the manual, both the Turbo & Non Turbo (NA) only have a Vacumm Advance when cold. It pulls the Dizi about 25 deg advance (which seems heaps, but works) to help cold start. At approx 85c, the advance is switched off, and as Andy said, uses Cetrifugal Advance when warm. The "Ignition amplifier" is only a switch, like points in a conventional car. When the Reluctor (star thingie in the Dizi) passes the pick-up, it generates a small voltage. The Module in the Ignition amplifier then switches the larger power on & off to the coil as required. The Constant Energy Ignition or High Energy Ignition is used on many other cars, and you can google allot of info on the setup. Other cars that use the system include many GM Cars, Land Rovers, Jaguar and many more, so is not a special "Lotus" system. The system can handle higher power than points (which burn out) The Module inside the amplifier does fail from time-to-time, but fortunatly with GM parts and there performance upgrades common as mud, they are easy to replace. It is interesting to note, that the OEM module in the Amplifier has "GM" on it Drew

Many Thanks Luc ! Pictures are great Yes, big difference in the jack handle... It is also interesting to note the slight changes in the bodywork Thanks again Drew

Hey Luc, Some Pic's would be great when you get a chance !!! Even of your tool-box would be nice. Probably can not "get" one, but can always find/make somthing similar. Drew

Thanks Chris, Looking at the parts catalogue, and comments made by others previously, I think my jack goes on the LHS of the spair wheel as there are 2 brackets there (and left-over rubber straps) And believe that the bracket & strap on the fire-wall is for a "plastic case" tool box However, the location of the 2 clips for the crank handle dont make any sence The Parts Catalogue sais there are 2 length handles (145mm & 265mm crank), perhap I have the wrong length crank handle? My Crank Handle is approx 400 long, with 265 crank for the handle. But if the crank for the handle was 145, it would lay down flat on the floor in front of the air-con box. but 145 long would be a bugger to jack the car up with ! Would be nice to get it right.......

Hey Guys, Am trying to tidy up the front of my Esprit. The jack straps have rotted, and the jack is currently rattling around the front The wireing runs seem too "visible" for this sort of car Would anyone have details photos of how it supposed to look with details on how jack, jack handle and wire layout should look like? This seems to be the least photograped part of an esprit Thanks Andrew

Hey Guys, I have had my Esprit for 3 years now, and gradually been catching up on some long awaited mantenance, so now looking for some of the non-essential bits Anyone know where you could get an Owners Manual? Would even settle with a "scanned" version till I found an original Also, what other manuals / documents would have come with the car? Thanks Andrew

Update Dont Panic ! After viewing some cross sections of the Master Cylinder, I decided to remove mine. The return spring had broken into 5 bits, which might explain the progressive decline. So, time for a new master cylinder.....

Hi Guy's Have a '87 HC Turbo, any only getting bottom half travel on the clutch pedel. It realeases/grabs right at the bottom of the stroke, driveable, but not right. I recently changed the clutch and pressure-plate, and original thought that the change in travel was everytihg settling into place, and that the "auto-adjust" would take up the slack, but continued to get worse. Blead the system, and checked the adjustment, and all's corrrect. No evidence of leaking or drop in fluid level. Master & Slave was replaced in 2011 (about 4000 miles ago) Any suggestions? Thanks Andrew

What size rubber did you end up putting on these rims?

I am hopeing to go for a "sympathetic" style of rim yes, But was wondering what width tyre/rim will fit the G cars? The guards seem to have plenty of room around them (particularly the back), but I have driven an '88 whos front wheels were rubbing whenever you turned the steering wheel. I would rather not make that mistake

Hey Simon, I've done allot of searching, here and other sites and not really found an answer. More looking for things like: - Im running 355 wide tires and they fit great or - Went to 355 tyres and look silly, and they hit the guard. Seems to be more info on '88 & newer models, but is the available space the same? Was thinking of getting a few cheap wheels from the Wreackers and trialing myself, but thats a bit extreem Andrew

Hey Guys, I have a '87 S3 turbo, and been thinking of changing the wheels/rims to 17" as the tyers are easy to get. What size non-standard wheels have people been able to fit without problems? I think 18" would be a bit too big...... Andrew