Erzulis Boat

I do not recall when I started wanting one, but it goes way back. The Bond film might have been an influence. I remember seeing Stacy Caplan's dad dropping her off in a white Pantera (had a crush on that girl), and another child getting driven to school in white Bradley GT (kit car) and remember being drawn irresistably to the 1970s wedge shape. When my business started to take shape, I wanted a 1970's vintage wedge car, an extreme example unfettered by modern design comittees. Flash forward.........the kid I knew that had been driven to school in the Bradley said that his father owned a Lotus Esprit now. I called his father and asked if I could come by the house and check it out. The last time we met, I was in the 6th grade. He opens the garage door, and a red 1977 Esprit S1 is sitting there. I was BLOWN away, I could not believe what I was seeing. It was a wedge, but there were soft spots here and there to make it classy and undeniably unique. The motor ticked over and barked, then kicked into a throaty roar. I could not believe what I was hearing. I joined the S1S2S3 owners site, and posted a request for an Esprit. Within 14 hours (I later checked), I had 8 solid sellers. The next day I purchased a 1979 JPS No. 027 and had it shipped from Chicago to Santa Barbara, California. The motor was blown, but I didn't care. I would have rebuilt it first thing, running or not. She sits on stands, and the motor is being done, but I look at my prize every chance I get. It still has the magic.

I kinda feel bad for the "Enzo" guy. He obviously spent a ton of time and money on that eyesore. He could have purchased something real and put effort into it. There are crazy people with money, that is proof positive. Poor guy. "Featured in the movie 13 Million", let me guess......it belongs to the Ninja hero or the villian terrorist/drugdealer/warlord/all of the above in some grade B flick. Must rent. 10 bids? Buddies or drunks? maybe both?

Thanks- My block number is 003. Did your sump have steel windage plates set up like fish scales secured via 5mm fasteners, if it did what was your counterweight clearance? 3-5 mm? This block is a bit oddball, and might have been modded at the factory. ?????

Anybody know the specs for the dry sump turbo crank bearings? Are the bottom bearings grooved or plain?

I was driving through Alaska in the middle of nowhere in my FJ40 and spotted a Ferrari 250 with faded paint next to some shack about a 1/4 mile off the road parked on a grassy flat amongst some trees. My pulse was racing, as I knew the tales of finding gems owned by clueless folks who needed money desperately. I pull in slowly as to not act excited, and casually walk up to my prize.................. As soon as I got within about 10 feet........................... Kit car on a 240Z platform. Middle of nowhere Alaska again, waaay off the road sits a 356 Porsche, no paint, but rust free. I walk up to the shack, noting the 4 wheel disc brakes...............I casually knock. How much for that old car? I don't know what it is, but I like the shape........ $10,000 was the quick reply, remember this was years ago, when $3000.00 would have been pushing it. West Virginia coal mining town, middle of nowhere again. On a mountain pass looking down I spy a gorgeous old Jag......learned my lesson by then and didn't stop. But, back on kit cars. I only give a pass to a few.

I am going through the transaxle, and internally she looks brand new. Tapered bearings, synchros etc. are spot on............but. The fasteners are marked 8.8, is this factory or are they supposed to be 10.9? The PO might have done a swap. I assumed that the fasteners would be 10.9s for sure. There are also no washers under the fasteners, is this correct? After inspecting the PO's handiwork.............I have to question everything. These are the external 7 and 9 mm fasteners. 1979 S2 Just drove to JAE (about a mile from my shop) and checked out a torn down transaxle. To answer my own post...........yep, they are all 8.8. Ok!

I am in the process of a rebuild. I am not cutting any corners, and it is expensive. There are different opinions on this. You could just put it back together with minimum cost by replacing gaskets etc. But...........There are other factors to consider. Let's say you get the valves all nice and tight, but still use your old pistons in worn bores. Now that the head is tight, you are getting excessive blow-by because the rings are tired. The engine wore evenly, so as the pistons let more stuff by, the valves (due to wear etc.) kept pace. New bearings would be a must in my book, even for a budget build. Getting the con-rods shipshape (new bushes etc.) would also be on the list. Your crank might get away with a polish, but if it is the edge, I would say regrind. If your pistons are still serviceable (skirts check out etc.) that would save a bundle. If you can afford it, new liners would be the nicest way to go. They are so easy to swap in a Lotus, take advantage of it! Short list- Bearings Polish/grind crankshaft Refurb con-rods Rings Seals Liners (if in budget) This is just the bottom end. The head should also be gone through, make sure the valve stems check out for wear. If you have to have valve guides replaced, make super sure the shop knows what they are doing...super sure. For your budget build, the valve springs might check out on a rate tester, but if you can scoop a set for a reasonable amount, then get a new set. Cam followers should probably be fine, so keep them in order for sure. For every 100 mechanics out there, 1 is actually good at his job. Good luck!

Are you guys doing a re-torque after break-in on a build/rebuild?

Even though she resides on jackstands--------- The Giugiaro Esprit is the ONLY way to fly. Falling in love all over again. :happy:

I didn't really consider piston slap, that would be one slappy piston. It might very well be. From the info- the noise is more pronounced under load, which might go hand in hand with piston slap. Stethoscope time. Keep us posted.

It has a "tinny" sound, that sounds like cam cover harmonics, as Tony was saying, a main is deeper and "thuddy". You were stating that the valves were re-seated? Lapped/ground existing seats, or an actual re-seat? The sound leads me to believe it to be an internal top end problem.

You would be surprised where knocks come from...........but that doesn't sound too healthy. Changing the oil will have a 99% chance of failure of eliminating that knock I fear. I have listened to the video about 20 times, and do not get a good feeling. There is a click and a slap sound, if all the external rotational stuff checks out (pulleys, belts etc.) then it is probably internal. I do not like the fact that the knock gets louder towards the rear of the engine. About halfway through the video there is a distinct double knock. I have my fingers crossed for you............please be a bucket/cam lobe issue.

If it is an exhaust related issue, usually the fasteners are the source of the problem at the start. Once the gasket has been banged around by a loose connection, then change out the gasket (cheap insurance), but the nuts on the studs are the usual culprit. Thread compounds (Loc-Tite etc.) are not the real solution, I would advise that bona-fide mechanical locking nuts are in order. I have seen people utilize lock nuts with the nylon element and kind of survive, but there are aircraft application suitable nuts that are constructed entirely from heat resistant alloys. I will not build a motor without aircraft level lock-nuts on every exhaust system connection/flange. It might not be a fastener/gasket issue, but this is just a heads up. I have to redo my exhaust flanges on my Range Rover (clicking/knocking when cold) because the factory used a thread compound, and after 9 years has finally crapped out. Lock nuts will be installed-no question, as well as new flange gaskets. Your video sounds like it might be something else............but we can hope, can't we? I listened to it again, it sounds like a reciprocating or up/down clicking with some criiingcruuung with the click. Does not sound like a exhaust system knock, an exhaust system knock is usually not so pronounced on idle, it gets quite loud on a 1st gear load in the morning, then backs down after about 5 minutes on the road. Good luck!

Yikes! I had a cold knocking once that was due to a loose header flange, it would knock until it warmed up enough for things to expand a bit, and make a solid connection. But.........it was more of a click/knock sound. Hope it's an easy fix.

You would have to implement a pump (electric), setting it up would be easy, but determining the flow might be difficult, you could easily over pump it and lose the capacity for the oil to transmit the heat at peak efficiency. Somebody somewhere was talking about some plumbing trick with the S1/S2 gearbox that would not require the use of a pump to circulate oil, but it was a passing conversation involving beer.............

Tony- I considered this also, but decided against it for 2 reasons. 1- It is a "pent roof" (terminology ease) combustion chamber, so the issue of spark "access" to accomodate an asymetrical shape is kind of negated. 2- Indexing would require shimming, and having variances in the plug penetration (depth into CC) would be less predictable. Shimming to get equal penetration is great, and would be more vital (in my opinion) than the electrode/bar relationship. But............I am probably wrong.

The added benefit is an increase in oil volume, and getting it cooler, which would improve the capacity (to stress) of the gearbox. To what degree, I could only venture a guess. Peace of mind is a big factor, but you have mated this 12 to the S1 gearbox? I have considered this option, and it would appear to be pretty straight-forward, but some real figures would be in order.

Tony- I have a set of adjustable sprockets in my build bin, so that is covered. As to the pistons, they are HC (bore 3.75, compression height 1.66), I also have new liners from SJ, and a set of new steel cam followers. The original block is so damaged, that I went paranoid, and starting getting new parts everywhere. The head/intake is matched. I still need headers, probably stainless SJ bits. As to the crank exactly matching the block, I will have to check again.

The original motor is blown to smithereens (literally) the PO swapped the crank to 2.2, and blew it to bits a few months later. I purchased 2.2 liter JE pistons but they sent 2 liter by mistake (a sign maybe?) I have the 2 liter unground and completely sound original crank. (no shells though) I have a set of SAENZ con-rods (670 grams) from JAE DIS ignition Weber 45 DCOE's Dry-sump Turbo block, Pace pump 777 cams etc.......... Half of me says go with what you have now, and button her up. Once she is buttoned, I do not plan on going back in. Too many future projects, and I want to drive it soooo bad. I can get the pistons swapped.........I was going to get a crank from JHPS, but they were out, now the waiting has only added time to the non-runner status. If I could get a 2.2 crank for something reasonable, but is the displacement increase worth the money that can go into the interior, or am I a fool not to exploit all the other goodies that I have amassed in the engine department? It is not so much the money issue, but one of being a bit practical.

The original engine is 2 liter. I have already spent a small fortune collecting the bits, and the car still sits. I am trying to rationalize the purchase of a 2.2 crank. In the Esprit world, do you typically go 2.2 if the car is apart? Will I be kicking myself later? I am trying to figure if the 10% displacement increase is a must have. A Pantera fits the bill for BHP, but am I going to be selling myself short by going with the 2 liter displacement? From experience, are there any out there with regrets? Is the 2.2 a winner all around, or does the original 2 liter also have it's merits? I am in a tough spot here, I have a good 2 liter crank standing in the corner...........next to a black JPS, on jack stands. A rational man would grab the 2 liter in the corner, but as an Esprit owner, the title of rational is not applicable.

I have a perfectly sound 2 liter crank. The 2.2 that was in the car is shot, it cannot be repaired without straightening/welding etc. I can get the car on the road quicker if I use the 2 liter- question is.....does the 2.2 setup improve the 907 engine to such a degree that it would be better to source the 2.2 crank? Is it a "night and day" difference? Should I hold out for the 2.2? I hear from some that the 2.2 is the "Holy Grail", but some others say that is not the case.

1979 S2 (JPS Comm.) No. 027 (Federal) Chassis 79050156S Engine C908-003 Andrew Bobro, Santa Barbara-California USA Original engine blown, replaced with 2.2L Drysump

I have a 908 (Factory designation, and so marked) 2 piece dry sump block going into my '79. This block was manufactured at Lotus. I currently have a line on a Pace 3 stage pump, and have heard of a Weaver unit that might be applicable. From distant memory, does anyone have an idea of the original configuration?

If you are looking at it within the scope of nuts and bolts......it is flawed. If you look at it in the whole........you have to sit down...it is THAT powerful. I have never been so affected by a car. I am still in a strange daze. I am not breathing a word of this to my motoring buddies. Just to think I almost purchased a Sunbeam Tiger.

Pictures of an Esprit cannot possibly do it justice. The car is amazing, I was awestruck. The first viewing was in a garage, and the car dominated the scene. I felt pushed into the corner initially, it was a sensory overload. I have seen many exotics, but the Esprit was something else. This is a secret, "below the radar" car.