Hedgehogfromhell

So, for clarity; Pins out, Pads out, new ones in, new pins in... That's it?!? Deceptively simple...

Did you do the rears? Quick question as i have to do mine - wheres the hand brake piston located on these for winding purposes? My outer shows a fair thickness left but the inner doesn't have long left.

Oil Seal - Cover Assembly: A132F6143S And i THINK this is the right bit for the lower seal and the plastic tube that's inserted into the plug that isn't used by Lotus... It's not clear on the part diagrams and isn't shown on the invoice for the work. It's referred to as a "Nylon Breather". Pin, lever shaft fixing: A132F6067S 'O' Ring: A132F6256S

Still going strong with a 520R.... Might be worth speaking to Lotus Silverstone (Matt, Aimee or Sam) http://www.lotussilverstone.co.uk/dab-for-your-evora/

Just to clear up this thread - it's been 5000mi and (touch wood) no further leaking has been observed. Definitely the plastic bung with the O ring and the seal around the gear selector plate. For clarity: See the black plug facing you above the cut out showing the small gearset on the left? That's the one Lotus blank off with a small plastic plug and o ring. That's where my leak originated. The second (pressure forcing blow by once the lowest seal was replaced) is directly above it under the fork arm the cables attach to. Bibs, for clarity can i please ask this thread is retitled as "Topside Transmission Oil Leak"

Tell me about it. There’s a LOT more that went on but quite frankly it’s the past and I learned my lesson to pick tuners very carefully.

That’s fair enough, better safe than sorry.

BLUF: Nothing specifically said, but you pay for the services you'll receive. I can't see a specific section for warranty on their website (Hangar111 or KomoTec). Even if it is for the bits they install (which they do declare specifically regarding exhausts etc on the Hangar111 website in the Q&A section) it's more than Quantum offer - which is ambiguity incarnate. Also the process from Hangar111/Komo begins with a diagnosis session to assess the car for any potential issues - which works out well for both sides. I am exceedingly wary of remappers since my Astra VXR.... It initially had a cheap, generic Superchips Map (which is a fairly well known map provider and it cost me £250) applied by Thorney Motorsport and suffered for about 3 months with misfires, limp mode and massive overfuelling in one of the cylinders. As a result of repeated trips back and having them tell me "It's you booting it from cold" (it wasn't) and getting P1106 "Boost threshold out of range" - I paid £700 to Courtenay Sport, who tested the car thoroughly prior to putting it on the Dyno and custom mapping, at one point speaking to Klassen in Germany (a renown mapper who provides the base and adjustment parameters for Courtenay in partnership) to confirm various parameters. Essentially if I'd listened to Superchips/Thorney, the engine would have been toast as it was operating with the safety parameters built in the base map raised so high they were utterly irrelevant. Hence limp mode being the last resort. If you want to give it a pop, don't let my ramblings dissuade you - every company starts out somewhere, but I'd think it to be a risk greater than the extra financial outlay with a known provider.

I’d be wanting a hardware warranty. What happens if they blow your engine? You get the map free? And left with a buggered 2GR? Especially with an unknown map. This is why people go and pay for maps from Hangar111, Komotec and Essex Autosport - they’ve already done countless weeks of R&D and countless maps on customer cars - they know the sketch on what is possible and how to fix it. Finally their well crafted reputation is on the line and they’re not going to throw that away on one buggered map.

Do they have a warranty attached to that?

Need to buy my ticket...

Got bored this weekend so I took the dog to the seaside, then decided that a few pictures were in order! Grilles by Simon Cox, on Flickr Horizon by Simon Cox, on Flickr Inlet by Simon Cox, on Flickr The Wall by Simon Cox, on Flickr Deutsche by Simon Cox, on Flickr

No dramas with them here, I’ve been working to buying a set of Tillet seats (which I’m 90% sure these are) for my Evora. As with all carbon and ‘glass seats they take a little breaking in and then are even more comfortable than standard seats imo.

Cheers for the tip! Guess I’m going to Asda tomorrow to grab a toothbrush spare!

Guys, I’ve noticed after a bit of road rash that my grilles need de rusting and spraying. Looking at Lotus VSI I cant see any way to remove the engine intake and cooling grilles without removing the clam. Does anyone know another way?

Mines heavy - Aimee and the mechanics have never said anything about it when it’s been back up there. I tested my clutch on a hill and it’s definitely not slipping at all, so I wouldn’t call a heavy clutch an indication for change.

Flexible pipe it is then...

I have mate. The front connection are slightly different on the GT3/4. Probably will end up getting them and making them fit

I'll try that tomorrow and report back.

I bought one of these from Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CG0XWDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 OBD Dongle functions when plugged in and under different power situations (ancillary, engine running) but it utterly fails to allow either my iPhone 7+ , Samsung Galaxy S8+ or Windows/MacBook to connect. All display "unable to connect". In the single instance I DID get it to connect it gave absolutely no throughput. AVOID.

Which incidentally is pretty much what I've said on PH in the last hour... Never understood why certain types feel the need to thrash out meanless times like they've done them personally... I don't care what this outputs - it's bloody gorgeous and I just think it's massively unfair that I can't afford one lol.

It's on my N/A MY2011 and i've seen it on an S MY2012 car too. The fuel cap won't open without it temporarily disabled (until restart) by double button pressing the door locks button. Mine is currently on and is bloody irritating at times when the button press doesn't always shut it off after cutting the engine. Mine works like thus: 1. With the key in and at the accessories position press and hold the door lock button on the front panel for 5 seconds. 2. You'll hear a bing when its enabled. 3. Turn on and drive off, the car will lock the doors automatically above 5mph. 4. Pull up to petrol station. 5. Turn off car engine. 6. Press door lock button twice. Fumble and attempt to get out with the doors still securely locked. 7. Press filler cap button. 8. Refuel. 9. Start car and drive off. 10. Park car and turn off engine. 11. Fumble with double button press and inevitably try to get out without the locks firing. 12. Pull out key. 13. Put in key. 14. Turn key to accessories position. 15. Press and hold for five seconds until you hear a bing. 16. Pull out key. 17. Remind yourself to never bother turning it on again. Also, whilst im on a rant... who decided at lotus to put the fuel cap button in such close proximity to the sport button?

Just adding that another symptom is that Cruise Control will be disabled. The buttons will not trigger any action of the cruise control feature as a critical safety system is inoperative - the clutch potentiometer is one of the three ways cruise is disabled by the driver. Come to think of it on friday morning i did think it was odd that the cruise control wasn't working... it all seems so obvious now...

Cheers - i checked the fluid to find it nice and clean - no bovril so clearly all was well with the master cylinder and the fluid itself. So on friday i was steered towards the MAF... Removed, cleaned and refitted - still the problem persisted. Went about cleaning and remounting the airbox after checking for air leaks - still the problem persisted. Disconnected the MAF and drove on the base map.... Still the problem persisted. Clearly wasn't air cleaner or MAF related. Cleaned the throttle body - still the problem persisted.. Called a friend who works on race cars and he suggested as it's fly by wire it may be a management problem somewhere - disconnected the Clutch position sensor by gently lifting the translucent plastic tag free from the pedal... No problem persists. Bastard. So, the single point of failure was: Part Number: A132J0107HDescription: Potentiometer, clutchPrice (each): £18.58 A nice cheap fix.

I've had a weird issue pop up the last few days - on gear shifts (mostly between 1-3) and reapplying power. Once i've changed gear about a second later the clutch appears to mate back to the fly and the car lunges. Sometimes i can feel the car begin to move and then charges forwards with a clunk. I'm beginning to feel its related to the damper - as it feels like the clutch is being allowed to mate later than my inputs dictate. I performed a clutch test by getting to an incline and attempting to pull away in varying gears - the clutch triggered a stall as expected so all appears fine in the mating surfaces themselves. Any ideas before i lose my mind?