WayneG

Hi everyone, I’ve noticed an Elise for sale that’s local to me and it’s got a really unusual modification. Well I’m guessing it’s a mod, but maybe you’ll enlighten me. The car is a Cup 250 with black headlights, but then over the top surface there is some kind of perforated tint. It feels rough to the touch, but I have no idea if it’s removable or not. I would expect this diminishes the light of the standard bulbs even further, but I guess it protects the headlamps from stone chips. I also wonder if it would cause MOT issues. Has anyone got any more info about what it is, and if it can be removed easily 🤷‍♂️

It's very easy to go down the rabbit hole of looking to find the perfect car. In reality, it's just down to budget. I've "only" got a V6S but I've loved modifying it over the time I've owned it... part of the fun for me. Manufacturers are always held back by rules and regs, so I always prefer aftermarket for components as I never believe a manufacturer's OEM stuff is quite as good as what's being engineered by independent companies that have a true passion to create exciting products. A 380 with various upgrades from Komo-tec etc would be a much more fun route than buying a 410 and keeping it standard, but it just depends on what floats your boat.

Noted for the future. Somebody has recommended an Antigravity battery option. These sound great so far as the battery shuts off when it detects it’s low. Ideal for me when I forget the dash cams are plugged in as you can hit a remote and it all fires back up again.

Thanks, it looks like cheap costs you dear with these things then. I was just hoping there might be a good balance out there of cost vs weight saving.

Thanks, with that thread being a couple of years old though, I was hoping for some advances since then. That fire image sure doesn’t appeal though 😬😬

I’ve got a V6S and I’m looking at replacing the standard, heavy Bosch battery. I’d love a liteblox option but the cost would prohibit some other mods with my current budget. I’ve seen brands such as Powerlite and Braille. Are these still a worthwhile option? I don’t think I’m running anything too heavily on the electrical system, but I do have a habit of leaving my dash cams plugged in which kill the current battery from time to time. A trickle charge later and it’s fine, but I’m thinking this would be bad news for anything Lithium to run it so low 😬. Any tips or recommendations for cheaper but still reliable options would be good. Also any links to brackets, although I can possibly get one made up. Finally, does anybody know the minimum cold cranking amps I need for the V6S?

Can anyone tell me if there is an option to upgrade the front Anti-Roll Bar on a V6 S? I see there are parts available for the Cup models (A703C0001F) on Deroure; it suggests that it's compatible with the V6S but is there anyone here that's done the upgrade? I'll also be upgrading the rear, but the front is the one I'm mostly struggling to find info on. Thanks

💯 I couldn’t believe none of them tested it. Your help was invaluable Kristof, thank you very, very much. I owe you a drink if you’re ever in the UK.

UPDATE: Sincere apologies for not updating the thread. The car issues have basically taken over my life whilst I tried to get them resolved in time for Spain; ironically, that may now not happen due to the new government advice 🤦‍♂️ As stated above, the issue, in the end, turned out to be the replacement solenoid that I bought. I admittedly know very little about the workings of a car sadly, and therefore rely upon garages to tell me what this issue is. However two Lotus garages and an Auto electrician could not source the fault; this was purely because they tested everything but the new part I ordered. I only realised this after the fact, but in my day to day life of IT repairs, I would have tested everything personally. I was at a loss and called my regular mechanic, but he told me he would be busy until around tuesday/wednesday of the next week. With the impending trip looming, I couldn't really wait that long. In the end, I called around several local Auto Electricians to find someone else, and one got back to me. He recommended a guy around 1 mile from my house and when I arrived, he tested all three solenoids that I had in my possession and told me "they're all f********" lol. In the back of his garage, he had a solenoid lying around from a Vauxhall Vivaro van. We fitted it, and the limp mode disappeared as soon as I'd cleared the codes. The car let me rev all the way to the red line and cruise control stayed on etc. It was so obvious in the end, I just had no idea the other mechanics hadn't tested the new part!

Thank you so much! update: the new solenoid appears to be faulty!

Thank you. This is way beyond me, but hopefully not a garage.

Yes correct, the solenoid that's melted was just on its own for many months, with the Larini running off a Bluetooth module and secondary solenoid (a Ford solenoid which came with it actually). Reinstalling either solenoid gives the same code. If I clear the codes with my OBD reader, all goes back to normal until I hit higher RPMs, when it all goes back in to either pending or limp mode, with the P2170 code showing again.

This is what was recommended to me by a friend... https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-194164-pressure-converter-for-exhaust-control-system-febi-bilstein-102027.aspx I spoke to a mechanic and he said they're all pretty much the same.

Yes it's Pierberg, but it's been in the car since new I believe. I know literally nothing about cars and electrics, but the auto electrician said 5V is a good thing.

Sorry for the confusion. Fuse 7 was fine, it was fuse R20 that looks to have blown, but that makes sense as the Compressor clutch had failed.