gusexige

Pulling up an old thread........... This is a useful, of not necessary measurement when redoing your head. Do I need new seats? This is the number you need to know. The thinnest shims in my head were about .078 or so. the measurement from the mounting surface of the cam box[relevant as this is the reference for the cam box, and thus the cam] is about .980 on this valve, interestingly with the original burnt valve and a new valve this will allow me to tell the shop a number that they can go to when bedding in the new valve that will, at least in theory, let me get a shim that will work Most of the other valves had ~.105+ shims so I am fairly confident that they will be in range.

This would be exactly my point. A primitive search function which does not really know what I am looking for, or a human who can post ' Hey userxxx had a really good writeup' Yeah, I'm an hour in 'searching the threads' and have found little interesting Thanks for the help

My engine is late enough not to need the mod. I am building it back stock, but am never averse to cheap horsepower tricks. I have been on the internet since well before there was a Google. 'use the search function' while I am sure is well intentioned, serves no purpose. There are 2807 results for engine rebuild on the search function, and most of them lack all details.

Comes to mind, recommendations on sealants, like for the main bearing cradle to block

Well, I am looking for the answers to questions I don't know to ask.... Things that are not in the factory shop manual. Initial disassembly and inspection thus far shows it will need guides and new valves[cause of low compression in #3 was burnt ex valve] Will renew bearings Appears never have been apart, although rear seal housing M6 button heads were wildly overtorqued. Two of them I had to drill the heads off, after which they twirled out with fingers, so no corrosion or loctite.

HC 912, actually in an Excel, but this is the busier forum. Need online threads/websites/resources Any resources with details and tips on engine building and assembly are much appreciated Appears pistons and liners are good, valves and guides need to be done. Late crossdrilled crank HC engine.

New receiver dryer, flush out the old oil, new oil new refrigerant That is for the R12 R134a change, perhaps 134 is banned where you are now. This is a pretty routine thing in the US If it has a leak that should be addressed first anyway

bump................

I think he is saying that he has one out of the car. Popping the lid and taking some pics of what can be seen close up in focus would allow some speculation on condition Generally the 2nd gear synchro is the most worn[since it is used more and frequently harder]

I have not rebuilt a 5 speed, but have done a ford 4 speed Not really that complex. Pull the cover off and look at the dogs and synchros. Each gear has little doghouse shaped 'dogs' that the peak of the roof if you will gets rounded. Each synchro has the same that mate with the shifter hub. These start getting rounded day one, but if they stop looking like doghouse roofs and start looking like igloos: dead mainshaft bearings don't usually die. countershaft bearings do. Anyway, take the cover off and loo at what is going on.

So as an 87 SE, I believe the car should have the lozenge 'Wickens' badges. I don't plan on putting them on, just if they are original, I ought to have them 3 total, nose and each B pillar. It think the B pillar trims are different also as the badge shape is different All should be in good visual shape, but need not be perfect I would like to find the mechanical parts for the central door locking, I will just buy a kit for electronics, but need the actuators and whatever goes in the doors actuators should be functional Could use a LHD, left mirror. with flat glass Of course both mirror covers are cracked, but I think that is what it is..... Not in any rush, I am in the US, so be willing to ship Thanks!

wait why not have both.....

Per Lucas color chart, there should be a 'white' wire going from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor, and a white with a yellow coming from it In theory......

It does not shut off the compressor It either changes the duty cycle of the compressor or the temperature of the system, I cannot tell which Appears to be a Toyota thing, as they had a similar button

It is not obvious from the wiring diagrams as the switches are not represented with internal logic.